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Complete The Shadow Shop Log

Yes it's auto and its showing as mv whatever that means. Retested this morn andim getting 03.0 mv on 2 pins on each opto connector and 100-110 mv on the other 2 pins. I must be doing something wrong I'm abit clueless with it.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369821173.216204.jpg
That's the one I'm using

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369821199.450255.jpg
Here's my posher one I can't get to work properly
 
re - the switch matrix you posted above...

you need to compare it to the switch matrix in the manual. There's one inside the back cover and on page 3.2

Where the switch in question is a 'mechanical' switch with a wire (i.e. the shooter lane), then ...
A dot means that the switch is open.
A square means that the switch is closed - e.g. registering the presence of a ball

Where the switch is an opto, it's the other way around
A dot means the presence of a ball (or something in the beam)
A square means no ball (or nothing in the beam).

Am writing this at work - can check everything when I get home tonight if required (as the manuals can sometimes not be 100% correct!)...
Read the switch matrix from the top left (just the ones inside the square for now) and you have a matrix 8 across by 8 down.
So, looking at your switch matrix above, the first closed switch is two across and three down.
Looking on the switch matrix diagram, that shows as the buy in button!
So, unless you are holding that button in, then there's something wrong right there.
The one below that (2,3) is always closed - so that is OK.

In column three, you'd expect the top three to be showing as closed - so that's the left ramp, right ramp and Sanctum not working correctly. The three at the bottom are showing as expected.
Column 4 - depends on whether or not you have any balls in the trough - looks like you have all five balls in there?

Column five is showing that the battle field entry target is down.

and that's it - the fact that the bottom 4 in column eight aren't showing as closed - is telling me that all four battle field targets are down?

Hope this helps - check your buy in button.

Cheers
Geoff
 
Those multi meters look OK.

If I remember correctly, your 'posher' one should be set to 20 (top right) to read up to 99 VDC. If in doubt, start at the highest setting and keep on turning down until you get a reading.

One other thought - how are you measuring the voltage?
I typically place the black connector under the braid in the cabinet or back box (since I know that is ground / earth) and then touch the red probe to the connector I want to test the voltage on.

That 4 pin connector should show 12V DC (or slightly higher) at pins 1 and 4 and a negligible reading on 2 & 3.
 
Good info Lippy, I learned a bit there too. Just to add a little bit here is how the shadow switch edge test should look with all balls removed and drop targets up;

imageshack.us_a_img837_1417_20130529131232.jpg

Compared to the switch matrix diagram;

imageshack.us_a_img10_6884_20130529132141.png

All the greyed boxes are optos. the other closed switch on its own( 2,4 ) is not used and is always closed as Lippy mentioned above.

Hope this helps, you definitely need to be able to decipher the switch edge test/matrix diagram.
 
Well Neil fellender was kind enough to ring me up and try to sort the prob. Got a few things to try and check the opto board see if its no that. He thinks the flasher prob is abit more in depth he's going to come out next fri to have a look. So hopefully it will be sorted by next w/e. just need to get my wireforms bk
 
I have sorted out the gun grip unobtanium fixings issue. For the right side I used the button head tubular bolt from ij / Dirty Harry part num #02-4547 and for the left the problem is the left half of the ij and dh one is to short so I found on pinball parts oz a torx pan head machine screw 8/32 x 1" and it's perfect.

img.tapatalk.com_d_13_05_31_ejy2e2ys.jpg

I've also finished repopulating the pf minus the wireforms which are at the platers.

Here's how she looks atm

img.tapatalk.com_d_13_05_31_4y3ejege.jpg
 
5EFAD009-8369-4719-AA7B-0CD6BD81670F-13345-0000097ED7A899AE.mp4
 
Well a little more investigating today after Neil's instructions. Checked the dc on the power pin o j116 which is the power to the sw10 opto pcb. And it's reading 17.77 v :0/ and 16 from the opto board. And I jumpered the opto connections on the board and all 3 register on the switch test. I also think this board is the source of the troughs odd behaviour. If I pull j116 or the opto sw10 boards power connector it starts doing its auto eject thing and spits all its balls out like a cheap whore. Sound like the boards screwed? If so do I go for the home pin replacement or the Great Lakes modular version mmm. This is alto save Neil having to do so much on fri
 
Lol think you read it wrong I don't have them working. I fooled it into thinking they are working by jumpering the pins with a paperclip to check the board
 
well neil fellender came round today and what a top chap he is.

Got the ring bulbs working and the dim insert lights bright there was a blown transistor and track.

The other probs are very strange he said hes never had this happen ever it seems the connectors for each of the 3 pairs of optos are iffy and need replacing and the same goes for the 2 non working flasher connector. How odd but a cheap fix hopefully once I track down some of the connectors
 
Well andy saved the day once again the new connectors arrived from him yesterday. All optos now working and one of the bad flashers think the other one is just a bad solder on its lil board. Now have a sanctum wall issue, single drop Down, got a lazy switch on the battle field pooper and balls keep getting held up I the lock
 
Oh trust me its started to wear very thin, not helped by stress at work and my nan dying last week.

Seems I fix one thing and something else packs up.......

so now I have all flashers and lights working, all optos, the sanctum wall will now go up and down. but now the single yellow drop down wont lower in test mode, the magnet wont work, think theres a lazy switch on the battlefield popper because somertimes the ball rolls into the dish and just sits there I have to nudge the machine to get it to activate. Also been getting hang ups in the lock and have to nudge and some times (7 out of 10 times) when the ball is launched up the first wireform it hits the glass. That's where im at I may get to play a fully working game some time this bleddy year!
 
Balls often jump off the wireframes on mine, especially a really well hit ball going right off the left phurba really fast will jump over the flippers.
 
Mine hits the glass sometimes at launch too. I quite like that though.
Click to expand...

You can adjust the auto plunger to stop this if you like. I found a washer or 2 under then the front screw of the coil bracket did the trick. It makes the plunger hit the ball above centre and give it a little bit of top spin making it hug the wireform and slow it down a bit. Experiment with different thickness washers until you get something your happy with.
 
Rudi,

regards your 'non working' battlefield drop target...

Assuming that the spring that pulls the target down is still connected...

When you run the relevant solenoid test can you hear it attempting to drop (i.e. does the solenoid actually activate).
To drop the target there is a small solenoid on the underside mechanism, that when energised pulls a metal plate toward the solenoid. This plate has an arm attached that moves the target so that it will drop.
What you can find is that the metal plate is too far away from the solenoid to be attracted to it. To adjust it, use a pair on long nose pliers to bend the tab at the bottom of the small plate so that it pushes the plate towards the solenoid. Shouldn't need to move much.

I occasionally get a problem with the vertical up kicker, in that it sticks a little higher than it's proper rest position and because it's stuck, the weight of the ball doesn't press it down onto the switch. Never managed to actually work out where it is sticking though!

Cheers
Geoff
 
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