Complete The Shadow Shop Log

[RudeDogg1]

This is gonna be a long one I just add to it as I go.

Just fixed the sanctum wall switch it just needed straightening.

Still getting a switch error on the battle field drop down switch all the optos on the battlefield are registering and all the targets.

A few faults ill try sorting befor i strip it down:

The battlefield switch error.
Mini kicker is dead.
burnt J120.
None of the rings light.
colum 8 only 2 lights light.
On GI test the lower pf doesnt light.

 

[RudeDogg1]

Now I know I'm being a total retard I've only used my multimeter once befor now I can't remember how to test continuity. I thought it was the symbol that looks like sound waves but I've not got that on here lol.

 

[Sgt GrizZ]

Now I know I'm being a total retard I've only used my multimeter once befor now I can't remember how to test continuity. I thought it was the symbol that looks like sound waves but I've not got that on here lol.

If you haven't got a 'buzz' setting then you will have to use the resistance setting ....little horseshoe shaped symbol (Ohms) ......low reading/resistance then continuity, high/infinite resistance ....no continuity .

 

[Calimori]

Bin the multimeter and get one with a buzzer, it will save you looking each time and allow you to put the meter somewhere flat.

 

[RudeDogg1]

well i just picked up a cheap one with a buzzer (the other one ill keep for more indepth settings). Im getting a reading of 8.3 which from the link grizz gave me is good right? I desoldered cleaned and rechecked now I assume it may be the cable join someone has done so thats my next continuity to check.

I could do with replacing a couple parts of the mini kicker if anyone knows the part numbers (I cant find them and they arnt in the manual that i can see)

the metal bracket the shaft with the square end goes through this one looks doctored as if not the original.


the spring this one has 2 very weak ones neither of which are the right ones I think.


solenoid re soldered and redid the join (better), got continuity but no life in it still grr. Any ideas? where should I be looking?

tested the fuses 2 dead which are for gi's so hopefully once ive fixed the burnt connector that will be the light prob sorted fingers crossed.

Found the second switch error its switch 55 micro switch for the single yellow drop target. it seems to work intermitently works when i press it but on it but only sometimes when the target drops. Do you think this is a new switch and diode jobbie?

 

[RudeDogg1]

Any pointers would be much appreciated. Not sure where to look next

 

[Busterbulldog]

My Shadow mini playfield optos didnt work well if sunlight was shining on them,but fine in non natural lighting.

 

[RudeDogg1]

It's not the optos because they pass the tests but the kicker solenoid is lifeless. Must be a break along the line or summut I found the power connector an that ain't burnt can I check that for continuity or does it not work that way around

 

[kevlar]

I did start typing a few things to help you test the solenoid but incase I'm giving you duff info I'd rather send you the troubleshooting guide that I use. If you want it let me know and I'll email it to you.

 

[RudeDogg1]

yes please thats very nice of you ill pm my email (not that i dont trust anyone here but it stopps spam)

 

[kevlar]

I already have your email btw, we sent quite a few last week about plastics.

 

[RudeDogg1]

oh yeah lol i forgot to reply

 

[RudeDogg1]

hmm well the transistor test worked (looks like it may of been reflown b4) which is a good thing i spose. Frustraiting i must be so close to finding the fault. Both connectors on the power board look fine

 

[kevlar]

Well one of the pins should have 50V on it. Connecting the tab of the transistor to earth with a piece of wire should activate the solenoid if everything is ok. Have you confirmed 50v at the coil? Connecting the other side of the coil to earth should also activate it as that's all the transistor actually does.

 

[RudeDogg1]

thats safe to do with the power on?

not tested 50 v at the coil just continuity (cant get my head around the multi meter to work out if it has voltage) god im crap lol

 

[kevlar]

Yeah every multimeter has volts on, it's DC mind so set to VDC. Are you not comfortable with the guide I sent?

 

[RudeDogg1]

yeah its good im just being thick

 

[kevlar]

Lol, no worries, playing around with electrics is not everyone's cup of tea. I would start by making sure you do have power at the coil, set meter to VDC, put the red test prob on one of the coil terminals and the black probe to earth ( I use the steel below the lockdown bar ). Obviously you need the power on.

 

[RudeDogg1]

i dont mind electronics i just find some things abit confusing scimatics ect being dyslexic prob dont help. Ill try tomoz when hopefully the replacement fuses for the 2 blown ones i found come. I dont like the idea of turning it on with 2 fuses missing.

 

[Sgt GrizZ]

I dont like the idea of turning it on with 2 fuses missing.

Won't do any harm ! Just whatever the fuse protects obviously won't work

 

[kevlar]

Any progress Rudi?

 

[RudeDogg1]

nope blew a fuse earlier typically a 3 amp which i dont have. So gonna pop to maplins tomoz, its really pishing me off not even had a propper game on it yet its not quite the same when the ball just rolls off the end of the battlefield lol. Ill be testing connectors and stuff tomoz

 

[RudeDogg1]

Got some parts from pinball mania today:

J120 molex replacement,
Molex replacement for a 2 pin connector I spotted under the playfield that looks like it got hot at one point.
3 flipper rebuild kit and bushings,
2 micro switches and diodes,
Coil sleeves for all,
Spring for mini kicker, single yellow drop down.

Once the mini kicker coil is sorted the strip down will begin


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[RudeDogg1]

Grr so close yet so far! I got the coil to fire when grounded so the coil def works. There's voltage at the lugs and every pin on both connectors. That's where I am at the mo I found a connector undone which I was hoping would of fixed it but it didn't ha ha (it goes to the knocker).

On the plus side I've done this today..... And it works





Also replaced a 2 pin under pf connector it looked abit melted.

It's fixed most the light probs.

Known faults that are left:

Still the mini kicker coil (as above),
Single yellow drop down switch (have a new one),
Sanctum drop down target switch (have a replacement).
No ring or big red flashed lights ( not sure where to start with that).
Knocker don't think it works and doesn't show up on tests


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[replicas]

Way to go.
One thing at a time and it seem you are managing that.
Looking forward to the next installment.

 

[RudeDogg1]

Just can't get my head around the last few probs which is stressing me out. Got to have a go today even with the non kicking kicker. Glad I bought the flipper rebuilds seems to struggle hitting the ball right up the ramp


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[kevlar]

The coil fires when grounded? So the coil and the wiring as far as the coil is fine. Next try grounding the tap of the transistor, if it fires then you have proved the circuit through the coil and the wiring as far back as the transistor so its probably a dodgy transistor. Does it work in the solenoid test?

 

[RudeDogg1]

Yup works when grounded ill try the transistor tab


doesnt fire when grounded to the transistor does that mean i need a new transistor?

abit more investigation i checked continuity from the connector to the lug and both connectors have continuity so i take it that means a new transistor? For some reason my J127 is wired diff than the manual the kicker is at pin 7 instead of 8

Also noticed conector j104 was plugged into j105 any idea y? the manual says j105 not used.

same results for the knocker so ill have to make another order from andy for transistors

Also the 3 cpu leds should the bottom one be on solid and the second flash all the time?
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[kevlar]

Sorry Rudi, I don't know the answers to those questions, mine is supposed to be delivered on Tuesday afternoon, I can compare then.

 

[RudeDogg1]

just need to figure out w my rings arnt lighting ive got continuity from each connector to each ring light dont know if the big red lights are on the same circuit i cant find anything in the manual. If anyone has any experiance in these light feel free to chime in please