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Complete The Shadow Shop Log

Check the connector pins on the little 555 board under the bf. On my getaway the solder was cracked around a few pins, just needed re flowing.
 
well I spoke to bleddy soon fired it up today fot further testing and its come up with the same 2 switch faults I was getting before which I replaced they work when pressed and when u pop down the sanctum and mini pop down. Maybe I have them positioned wrong? And now the sanctum opto isn't working grr ffs. And since the tear down its developed some weird fault when you power it up it decides to launch a ball or 2 not ideal when the wireforms arnt in place it broke 2 leds. Oh and what a bloody surpprise the ring flashers still don't work (so prob the rings to). checked all fuses once again checked continuity on the optos which was fine
 
Sounds like your having a rough day, I'm sure you'll figure it out.one thing to bear in mind is the boot up diagnostic and test report often report switches that aren't faulty at all just because they haven't been operated ingame for a few games. The other day I started getting report check some of the switches on the battlefield just because I had played quite a few games without hitting a ball up there.

If someone else knows more about how this works I'd like to know, for instance does a certain number of games without activating a switch mean it gets reported?
 
Do all the trough opto's work? Forget about the first one nearest the flippers. There's one at the other end of the trough that's made when popping a ball up, maybe that one is out?
 
The rings are just normal feature lights, I.e. part of the matrix. Do they go near that board?

Edit, checked the manual, you are right they do go through that little board.
 
GrizZ said:
Jumper doesn't necessarily mean the board is fubar. Test all connections and components on it before replacing it.
Click to expand...

Whats the best way of doing so Ive got continuity between the jumpered bits. On the pluss side I ran another switch test and the trough is ok its also stopped auto launching so that's one prob down
 
bloody trough now it don't like being tilted up with the passive ball stop on it keeps trying to kick balls out I ended up taking the balls out so I could carry on sorting a lamp out. On the plus side ive sorted all the 555's on the bf just need to buy 2 new 44 holders one on the bf the buld sits really loose and one under a pf insert doent seem to be lighting very bright even when swapping bulbs over. Any idea on what type of diode to use on lamp holders?
 
1n4004

Either reinstate the high power interlock, look for the disconnected cables in the base, or before you raise the playfield, whip the power connector off the trough opto board, so making machine think balls are still in place.
 
pinballmania said:
1n4004

Either reinstate the high power interlock, look for the disconnected cables in the base, or before you raise the playfield, whip the power connector off the trough opto board, so making machine think balls are still in place.
Click to expand...

thanks andy that's back to normal now. Any ideas on the ring lights and ring flasher and the sanctum opto probs?
 
kevlar said:
Sounds like your having a rough day, I'm sure you'll figure it out.one thing to bear in mind is the boot up diagnostic and test report often report switches that aren't faulty at all just because they haven't been operated ingame for a few games. The other day I started getting report check some of the switches on the battlefield just because I had played quite a few games without hitting a ball up there.

If someone else knows more about how this works I'd like to know, for instance does a certain number of games without activating a switch mean it gets reported?
Click to expand...

According to what I was told by the late Bob Thomson, regarding Williams games;
Each time a switch is hit an individual counter for it is re-loaded with the interval value (this was 60 when the routine was first introduced).
At the end of each ball in play, every counter is reduced by 1.
When a counter reaches zero, the report comes up for that switch, either as a power-up alert or a 'credit dot'.
Switches not used by the game are 'masked out' of the reporting routine, as are coin switches, tilts, etc, (though the Williams game 'Fire' reports coin switches).
 
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Well not had a lot of time tonight so had a quick investigate of the bloody optos that worked b4 the strip down. I have continuity from the u4 connector on the fliptronic board, continuity from the small opto board down the far end (the one Andy fixed), followed a grey / yellow cable to a connector on the trough and have continuity, followed the second grey / yellow to a connector on a small board with a transistor on and I had a momentary beep as I first touched it it did that twice then nothing. What do I do now? Do I need to go along that wire looking for breaks ect? What I don't get is the opto beeps on the switch test when u unplug it and recognises if its unplugged.
 
bit confused as to what your actual problem is now...

are you saying that the trough optos aren't registering - in game, in test mode, both?
Is the machine totally back together yet i.e. are you able to start a game?
 
My prob is the sanctum optos arnt working, neither are the ring lights and ring flashers (they wernt before), and the trough likes to eject at start up andys suggestion worked but had to do it again since.

It's back together minus ramps, plastics and wireforms
 
Optos. Use a multimeter to measure the voltage across the solder points of the led emitter - the one in the white holder. Around 12v means you have a bad opto here. 0v means you have no power supply to this opto. 0.7v or thereabouts means this opto is working, and we need to look somewhere else.

All the ring lights are on one string along with 85 right eject arrow, 86 mong(o)l, buy in and credit button. If none of these work you have no continuity to j138-9 or a circuit board fault. If these others work then you have 4 blown bulbs, or lack of continuity to them. Check the daisy chain wiring at all lamps on this string.

Not sure what ring flashers you are referring to. The rings only have one single controlled lamp on the lamp matrix.
 
RudeDogg1 said:
It's the 3 red flashers that are alone the wireforms with the rings. Cheers andy I will try and have a look tonight
Click to expand...

Presumably you mean flashers 21, 22 & 23 (see manual page 2-43)? - which are orange (usually).
Are the bulbs OK - swap with ones from the back wall (which I presume are working)?

Re the optos - you can check that he emitter is working with a camera phone. You will probably need to get the phone in the beam, but if working, you should see the emitter glowing blueish (check with a working on e.g. battle field as it's easy to get the phone in the beam).

You mention that you have checked continuity on the wires - but have you also checked for power - at both the opto PCB and again on the leads that feed the emitter and receiver ?

Cheers
Geoff
 
Lippy427 said:
Presumably you mean flashers 21, 22 & 23 (see manual page 2-43)? - which are orange (usually).
Are the bulbs OK - swap with ones from the back wall (which I presume are working)?

Re the optos - you can check that he emitter is working with a camera phone. You will probably need to get the phone in the beam, but if working, you should see the emitter glowing blueish (check with a working on e.g. battle field as it's easy to get the phone in the beam).

You mention that you have checked continuity on the wires - but have you also checked for power - at both the opto PCB and again on the leads that feed the emitter and receiver ?

Cheers
Geoff
Click to expand...

I've not yet tbh I've not really got a clue what I'm doing half the time. I put the meter in dc to check that don't I? (Wiring and circuits have never been my strong point)
 
Yep - DC for this.

Check the manual page 3-20. J3-2 Grey/yellow +12V DC from J116-2. So you should geta reading of 12V DC from pin 2 (though typically, it will be a bit higher). Test across pins 2 and 1 (pin 1 being ground).
If that checks out, test J4-1, should also be showing 12V DC.
Then check the 4 pin connector block for the opto, top and bottom pin should be showing 12V DC also

Cheers
Geoff
 
Well slight progress just done the cam ir test and that's working. I'm wandering if its due to the repair I had to do to the black side. The wires had worn thru so I joined in a new piece and re soldered. It has continuity tho. Not checked for voltage yet tho
 
I don't think so I will check tho does anyone know what colour goes to which side? It don't really say much about optos in the manual
 
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