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Complete The Shadow Shop Log

Lippy427 said:
Rudi,

regards your 'non working' battlefield drop target...

Assuming that the spring that pulls the target down is still connected...

When you run the relevant solenoid test can you hear it attempting to drop (i.e. does the solenoid actually activate).
To drop the target there is a small solenoid on the underside mechanism, that when energised pulls a metal plate toward the solenoid. This plate has an arm attached that moves the target so that it will drop.
What you can find is that the metal plate is too far away from the solenoid to be attracted to it. To adjust it, use a pair on long nose pliers to bend the tab at the bottom of the small plate so that it pushes the plate towards the solenoid. Shouldn't need to move much.

I occasionally get a problem with the vertical up kicker, in that it sticks a little higher than it's proper rest position and because it's stuck, the weight of the ball doesn't press it down onto the switch. Never managed to actually work out where it is sticking though!

Cheers
Geoff
Click to expand...

Well had another look yesterday and the solenoid isn't even responding not even a buz same goes for the magnet. So I'm wandering if its connected? The magnet was working b4 the optos wee fixed.

And my popper prob is exactly the same as yours I'm wandering if its catching on the edge of the hole
 
Did abit of investigating tonight I thought the small coil on the single dropdown and the magnet are prob on the same connectors which they are (j907 and j902) on the fliptronic board then I checked the fuses on there. And fuse f904 had indeed blown. So I thought yay pop a fuse in and that's fixed. So I fire her up go into tests and the single drop down drops and the magnet activates. Then I go in to magnet test the wall drops the magnet buzzes briefly the says er wall target bad and the fuse has blown again. Anyone have any idea what I need to be checking?

Rudi
 
Check the end of drop target switch is working correctly, it should register when the target is dropped so that the game knows to switch off the drop coil (and magnet?).

I'd also check the transistors involved on the flip-tronic board in case one has shorted.
 
Well did some further investigation ive got continuity at all corresponding connectors so I assume that rules out a break. I don't think its a transistor because when you put a new fuse in the mini drop target (the yellow one) will drop in test mode) and the magnet works. Then if you put it on the magnet test it grabs the ball and lobs it. If you try it again it trys grabbing then blows the fuse and says er battle field bad. Where do I go from here? Stuck once again :0(
 
Moonraker said:
Check the end of drop target switch is working correctly, it should register when the target is dropped so that the game knows to switch off the drop coil (and magnet?).

I'd also check the transistors involved on the flip-tronic board in case one has shorted.
Click to expand...

it is a new switch but its got to much play on the lil lugs that hold the metal arm so may replace that again
 
Well a lil progress today I replaced the switch on the wall drop down and now for the first time since owning it I have no test report on start up yay! So I tested the single yellow drop down and yay that works then the magnet yay then I thought I'd test the magnet again and pop blew the fuse again grr. What do I do? Someone on yahoo suggested just popping in a 5a fuse instead but I'm sure that's not wise? Can't be a transistor (I don't think) because both coils work. Any suggestions would be very welcome.

Rudi
 
Rudi,

Are you saying that when in solenoid test, you can test the magnet without any problem (have you left it on repeat on the magnet solenoid, so that it pulses several times?), but when you run the specific magnet test, the first test works OK (including throwing the ball into the sanctum), but when you try a second time, it blows the fuse?

If so, when does the fuse blow - is it after it has thrown the ball into the sanctum or when it tries to catch the second ball?

I would still be inclined to change the related transistors, as it does sound like it is locking on (though when they lock on, they usually stay locked on!)

Geoff
 
It will repeat on the solenoid test but when it does the magnet test it will catch and throw it but on the second attempt it catches then pops the fuse and drops it. Both it and the single yellow drop down work perfectly if a 5amp fuse is used which is odd
 
....and does it blow the (3amp) fuse in game or is it just in test?

Don;t think I've ever used the magnet test - will try and have a look at it tonight.
 
Well, have just run the magnet test on mine...

checked the fuses first - all looking clean and new.
Ran the magnet test several times straight after each other and checked the fuse again - felt a bit warm and looked a little toasty!

You're probably running out of 3 amp fuses by now - but I'd hazard a guess that after one hold on your magnet, a 3 amp fuse wouldn't look too healthy.

So maybe a 3 amp fuse is rather close the what the magnet should normally draw and maybe your voltage is too high ?
(I don't know if it's possible for the magnet/coil to break down over time such that it draws more current) poping that 3 amp fuse?

Have you checked the voltage on the flipper coils (think they should all be fed from the same supply as the magnet)?

Did you / could you play a game when you first got the machine i.e. was the magnet 'happy' before you stripped the machine?
 
The magnet and wall didn't work when I got it. The wall target was allways up so don't know if that shut off the magnet or it just didn't work then either
 
Well after re flowing the connectors on the bf inserts due to cracked solder I decided to pop the fliptronic board out to investigate the magnet fuse popping. i checked both the transistors that control the single drop down Q2 and the magnet Q7. Both seem fine getting the same readings as the other transistors on the board. The board unlike all the other boards is untouched no hacks or repairs and the solders on the all the transistors look fine. What do I do now?
 
Rudi,

as said above - have you checked the voltage at the flipper coils. They should be fed from the same supply as the magnet.
According to the manual - they should be 50V - but they will be more than this. Around 60V is normal.
If it's much more than this, then that could be your problem
 
Moonraker said:
Put the larger fuse in and not worry about it. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

that's what Ive done

Lippy427 said:
Rudi,

as said above - have you checked the voltage at the flipper coils. They should be fed from the same supply as the magnet.
According to the manual - they should be 50V - but they will be more than this. Around 60V is normal.
If it's much more than this, then that could be your problem
Click to expand...

seem to be about 83 :eek:s dunno why that is its like the opto board when neil was playing with that the other week the 12 v was 16 - 17
 
Think that may be your problem.

I know that most of the voltages are greater than what the manual states (just checked mine and I have 60V at the flipper coils and 70V at the other coils e.g. phurba diverter, bumpers)
Can't remember why, think it's to do with the input voltage and I think that the main power box in the cabinet can be jumpered for different input voltages and maybe yours is incorrect?

Might be worth starting another Technical Question thread - asking about voltages and stating what you have.

Cheers
Geoff
 
Had an error pop up tonight check switch 71, mini L stand up. Not sure where this is located on the pf
Click to expand...

Check the manual, there's a diagram that shows you where all of the switches are. If you don't have a paper copy then download the pdf from IPDB.
 
Page 2-41. Switch 71 is the top standup on the left side of the mini playfield
 
Yes that'll be it, it's a bit annoying to get errors pop up just because you haven't been to that part of the play field for a while, I sometimes go many games without aiming for the battlefield and then these errors start popping up. I guess that's the way they chose to program it but it would be nice to lengthen the counters a bit to stop it happening
 
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