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Complete (build) Log 'cavity wall' cabin Pinball Room

It's driven me crazier all this VOODOO that builders spout, being a layman it's hard to know who to listen too and annoying as to know which way is the best option, after-all it's a good wedge of cash to spend on a cabin and I really want to get it right, also a) don't want to spend a fortune heating it whilst at the same time b) don't want to compromise the structure by doing something I think should be OK like doubling up on Celotex only to find I have moisture as it needed an air gap....

Builders are saying 50mm is fine, I have also read that foil-backed stuff needs an air gap one side to make the foil work i.e. keep a pocket of air warm thus acting as another insulation layer, but who the fook knows...

Do I double up or not? I guess worst case is do 50mm see what it's like heating-wise for a year and if needed add some more myself, in either the form of open up walls and add some or simply add insulated plasterboard to all walls...

Added to this the sparky is saying the convection heaters I have got for the cabin are not up to the job and that oil-filled is far better, now I thought all electric rads are 100% efficient, yeah oil will hold the heat for a while but take longer to heat up, so little to no difference...

It's diminishing returns with Celotex thickness.

Yes 100mm is going to be better than 50mm, but it's not twice as good.

With insualation, go with the best you can afford up front, as it reduces your heating bills in the long run. I went with 50mm all round as it seemed the best value for money and I have found that I am happy with the amount of heat I need to provide (oil rad on low when not in use and machines heat it up when in use - I have 14 machines in there)

Mine is (I think from memory) 24.5' x 12.5' I have an oil rad on perm low to keep it from getting too cold, and then I put a small fan heater on for 15-20 minutes before using the cabin (along with the machines) Yours is bigger so you will need some more heat than me.

Heaters are near enough 100% efficent as you say (excluding quartz ones as they put out light as well). The benefit of il radiators are they are safer as the heating element is enclosed, so you can leave them on long term
 
How did they cover the vertical join on the external face of the long walls pls ? I am guessing that the wall is too long for a single length of wood to cover it end to end

Could I also beg photos of how they covered the external corners pls ?

I am trying to figure out how best to do mine
 
Could i ask why you have a wooden floor please, as opposed to just using the concrete as the floor ?
 
How did they cover the vertical join on the external face of the long walls pls ? I am guessing that the wall is too long for a single length of wood to cover it end to end

Could I also beg photos of how they covered the external corners pls ?

I am trying to figure out how best to do mine

The external corners can be seen here;
A before, minus the weatherboard to the front.
IMG_20160216_072350.jpg


Then the finished corner, its snug to the corner and protects what was the edges of the weatherboards, so the side is just like the front, let me know if you need another photo.

IMG_20160220_161132.jpg

As for the vertical join to the top front, not sure, I think its just for looks.

Hope this helps.
 
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Could i ask why you have a wooden floor please, as opposed to just using the concrete as the floor ?

Good question, and I really don't know, but its on a concrete base.
As its a wooden structure I guess the folks building it just put in an insulated wooden floor (there was not a choice form the folks I used), actually much like any house. In fact my 1930's house ground floor is wooded beams and wooden floor.
 
What a great space.
How many machines can fit ?

The plan is 10 down each side, with sofas and coffee table in the middle of the room, with space at the far end for say 2 more, so ~22.

Being 6.5m wide there is plenty of room for players, to get the glass off, and dare I say it to have 'overflow' for folded units to stand behind set-up pins...
 
So what is going in the roof space and the floor in terms of insulation ?

Cheers kev
 
So what is going in the roof space and the floor in terms of insulation ?

Cheers kev

Kev,

Its the same as walls so 50mm Celotex, I did have the option of a 'low' ceiling i.e. total boarded up so loads of 'loft' space, or the option which I took of boarding up against the rafters with the insulation in there, giving a higher ceiling.

I figured do the latter and if I need to 'board' it up for extra warmth then I can do that myself.
 
Internal walls being cladded...

IMG_20160223_072948.jpg
IMG_20160223_073019.jpg

Its getting there, soon I'll have to fold machines, move machines and then set the buggers up again....
 
Kev,

Its the same as walls so 50mm Celotex, I did have the option of a 'low' ceiling i.e. total boarded up so loads of 'loft' space, or the option which I took of boarding up against the rafters with the insulation in there, giving a higher ceiling.

I figured do the latter and if I need to 'board' it up for extra warmth then I can do that myself.
cheers looking fab !!! so is the insulation to go into the roof space yet ?

Kev
 
Good question, and I really don't know, but its on a concrete base.
As its a wooden structure I guess the folks building it just put in an insulated wooden floor (there was not a choice form the folks I used), actually much like any house. In fact my 1930's house ground floor is wooded beams and wooden floor.

I can attest that a insulated wooden floor will be significantly warmer than concrete and is worth having. My cabin and garage both have insulated floors and it makes a big difference. The videogames room in the house has a concrete floor and it's freezing compared to the cabin
 
It is apparently possible to insulate beneath concrete floors. I have never done this, but a builder mentioned it as yet another VOODOO option when building my workshop
 
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