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Complete (build) Log 'cavity wall' cabin Pinball Room

Looking good, however that Mesh should be raised off the ground using these....

http://www.travisperkins.co.uk/ROM-Reinforcement-Grade-Plate-Spacer-GP4050/p/924746

That way, the Reinforcing mesh is in the middle of the concrete supporting it, as opposed to holding it up...

Dont use bricks - they adsorb the moisture in the concrete and cause premature drying in those areas, increasing the potential of cracking...

Thoese leaves need to come off before concrete too - Else they will degrade within the dried concrete, and cause holes...

(sorry!)
 
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I also considered a German storage heater but these roll in at approx £1,000 for a single 2kw heater, whereas the Adax is £151, the sales chap tried to convince me that storage is better and would cost less to run, I'm not convinced as I though all electric heaters were 100% efficient.
The idea with storage heaters is that you 'charge them up' overnight, which is cheap rate electric if you also use Economy 7 (or similar). They then retain their heat for a lot of the day, cooling down but never really going cold.

In my house (no gas supply at all) I rely on them, but the downside is the planning ahead. If you have them on overnight, and then the sun comes out the next day, can be blazing hot! Also no 'quick put the heaters on' option if its suddenly cold. Bit of a pain in the **** to be honest.

Keep the photos coming, love seeing the progress :)
 
Great photo log. Can we start a caption competition on that last one. I'm thinking...

Oi, you lot, listen up, Paul on pinballinfo says you need to use more ROM Reinforcement Grade Plate Spacers on that mesh, so get to it.

Builders...What does he know about ROMs?
 
Two fecking hours of pumping only for the numpty on the pump to reliase that the revs were not enough, now were getting there...

IMG_20151113_135143.jpg
 
Pumped concrete.... Pfft.... You wanna try barrowing it - especially for something that size! End up looking like popeye....
 
Hope that steel was lifted up it should be about 50mm from top of concrete,have they mentioned about sawing an expansion joint in it a few days after it is poured can't remember how many days if you are using a pump mix.

Cheers Brian
 
Hope that steel was lifted up it should be about 50mm from top of concrete,have they mentioned about sawing an expansion joint in it a few days after it is poured can't remember how many days if you are using a pump mix.

Cheers Brian

I thought the expansion joint should be in place when it's poured.... I forgot to mention that!!! :oops:
 
You can put some fibre board in before you pour to form expansion joint keeping it 10-15mm down then fill joint with poly sulphide,or you can saw concrete after a few days later to a depth of 30mm from top ideally not sawing through the mesh and fill joint with poly sulphide also.
 
Cabin is not on site yet.

I will ask about expansion joint, they have not mentioned anything about one, so I guess not planned on putting one in.
 
You can put some fibre board in before you pour to form expansion joint keeping it 10-15mm down then fill joint with poly sulphide,or you can saw concrete after a few days later to a depth of 30mm from top ideally not sawing through the mesh and fill joint with poly sulphide also.

If you are only sawing down 30mm then what use would this be?
 
As the floor expands and contracts if it is going to crack it will at the weakest point you try to dictate this by putting a saw drift on the floor and if it cracks it should be here if you sawed it the full depth there is nothing to stop the crack opening further,if you form it before pouring the floor you would put dowel bars in with sleeves on one end to let the floor expand and contract without cracking the floor.
 
Storage heaters have a bad rep. I think this is unfair. I have lived with them very successfully in well insulated/ modern properties, and very unsuccessfully in poorly insulated old houses

There are two critical things and one brucey bonus when it comes to these heaters

Critical 1 - you need a well insulated property, or you have the too hot in the morning, too cold at night issue

Critical 2 - buy storage heaters that automatically adjust the input charge to reflect how warm the room is at the time. This way, they do not over- charge on mild evenings. These ones do not cost much more than dumb, basic ones. It is a no brainer to buy these

Brucey bonus 3 - you can buy dual supply storage heaters. These are much more intelligent and allow you to use them as fan heaters too, drawing current at any time of day you choose. But these are very bulky and expensive. So you need to decide, but a dedicated £30 fan heater is a much cheaper way to go

All electrical heaters are 100 per cent efficient. Electrical wholesalers try to sell some voodoo, bullsh1t German ones as being miraculous money savers. I do not believe a word of it, and the things cost a fortune. I recall one saying that because it had a very accurate thermostat, it used less energy than ones that allowed the rooms to get too hot, no effin sh1t !!!! But some loons fell for it

Buy a boring, well established english brand like creda or dimplex. Been around forever. Parts and backup are available. Piece of cake to install, repair etc. far less likely to give trouble than some unknown imported crap in my opinion

Provided you keep it to 3kw i think, you can use a little timer that fits in a standard wall box if you need to time the heater
 
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So base is done, a fair few leafs fell onto the base and some kinda got stuck in a few mm of concrete, no biggie as a cabin is going to sit on this not be seen.

The garden tidy up starts tomorrow.

Should I leave the shuttering in place or remove?

IMG_20151115_151316.jpg
 
I would leave shutter on for a week at least protects your edges,what are you going to be doing with the ground around the floor as it looks quite low,also are you connecting into the drainage system or are you doing a soakaway for rainwater if the latter put a French drain in around perimeter of floor.

Cheers Brian
 
Brian,

Yes I am having soakaway connected to the guttering on the cabin.

OK I shall leave the shuttering on for a while.
 
Put a French drain in around your cabin floor it's just wavin coil pipe which has been perforated wrap it in terram and then cover with 25mm to 30mm clean stone and lead it to your soakaway whatever you decide to do with ground around the cabin I would put a boarder of decorative chips about 6 to 10" wide around cabin this will catch any rain that runs down the cabin this will then feed into the French drain and take it to the soakaway nothing worse than lying water around a building.
 
No news on cabin start date yet, except I have suggested they start New Year as I don't want the work 'butting' up against Christmas and New Year, i.e the work men rushing to finis or doing ½ the job only to come back a few weeks later to finish a soggy wood structure.

More updates as I get them.

Gives me time to fit French drain.
 
No news on cabin start date yet, except I have suggested they start New Year as I don't want the work 'butting' up against Christmas and New Year, i.e the work men rushing to finis or doing ½ the job only to come back a few weeks later to finish a soggy wood structure.

More updates as I get them.

Gives me time to fit French drain.
Probably wise!
 
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