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Complete (build) Log 'cavity wall' cabin Pinball Room

OK so a long wait from base down to the next phase, now that the silly season is out of the way I am looking at the building to start in the next week or two.

But for now, Cooldan put together a nifty video to see if my machines would fit in..


And they do fit in, cheers for that Dan.
 
is that where the trampoline used to be?

Nope its at the end of the garden, so still room for trampoline, I could have made the shed bigger but it would have ended in divorce!

Open day once its all done and pins are set-up...
 
now that's a proper shed !!
you going to use celotex for the insulation Julian ?
when i built our 'shed' i used loads 100mm thick and in this weather its not to bad but i still have to have the aircon on to keep the temperature up comfortable it would take ages with a little electric oil heater for sure
 
Nope its at the end of the garden, so still room for trampoline, I could have made the shed bigger but it would have ended in divorce!

Open day once its all done and pins are set-up...

When I got my cabin, I said to my Mrs "Can I put a shed in the corner of the garden"

She came home from work and said "That's not a shed it's a f**king barn" and didn't speak to me for a few days :rofl:
 
Bluejools; Yes its a company, Timberspecs (http://www.timberspecs.co.uk/quality-log-cabins.html), you basically ask for a size and type of shed/cabin and they produce plans for you to agree to and then they can either supply only or supply & build.

Justinhcb; Its a 100mm cavity and the plan is to put in 50mm Celotex, I was thinking of doubling up to 100mm but have read on the Celotex site that certainly in the roof there need to be a 50mm air-gap to stop internal dripping from condensation. I was wondering if this is also a good idea for the walls?!?

The builders are saying that 50mm Celotex is ample (and I would have thought if this was not the case they would 'up-sell' and get me to purchase more Celotex from them), any thoughts or knowledge form the forum would be greatly appreciated.
 
Julian you defo need an air gap at the roof to let your building breathe on your walls when you mean cavity I quess you mean it is a 100mm kit you can put whatever you want in personally I wouldn't put 100mm celotex if you have bought 50mm already that would be suffice but if you haven't up it to 75mm.
 
Bluejools; Yes its a company, Timberspecs (http://www.timberspecs.co.uk/quality-log-cabins.html), you basically ask for a size and type of shed/cabin and they produce plans for you to agree to and then they can either supply only or supply & build.

Justinhcb; Its a 100mm cavity and the plan is to put in 50mm Celotex, I was thinking of doubling up to 100mm but have read on the Celotex site that certainly in the roof there need to be a 50mm air-gap to stop internal dripping from condensation. I was wondering if this is also a good idea for the walls?!?

The builders are saying that 50mm Celotex is ample (and I would have thought if this was not the case they would 'up-sell' and get me to purchase more Celotex from them), any thoughts or knowledge form the forum would be greatly appreciated.

I have 50mm Celotex in the walls, floor and ceiling.

In winter, I run an oil radiator on low permanently to keep it from getting too cold.

When I turn all the games on, it heats up to about 20-22 degrees from the machines alone.

In summer the celotex keeps the room at a sensible temperature when not in use, but with all the machines on, air conditioning is required
 
All i can say is i only left a very small cavity mate as long as its not touching it wont sweat.
you should be able to make it out in the picture of the back wall 10mm tops (yep i'm all about the health and safety!! :D )
 

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Following this build with intrest as many are because in the future I need to build a room so I can get more than my own 2 pins squashed into the dining room.

Has anyone considered using SIP's (Structural Insulated Panels), don't know how they work out with build costs and time of build ect. Looks like it would only need covered on the exterior to weatherproof it.

Julian I hope you've got enough pins to fill all that space? It's looking good!
 
Of all the subjects in the world that involve a foul combination of bull****, voodoo, fear, regret, idiocy .... NOTHING comes close to condensation. The topic has driven me absolutely ****ing mad as you get so much contradictory advice

I have found the technical teams at celotex and kingspan to be the most helpful. You just call them. That would be my suggestion.

Provided you have a decent damp course, your shed should not have really any internal sources of moisture, which is a good start. If you lived in it, then it would be different as you would be a source of moisture.

The worst problems will be warm air hitting cold surfaces (ie the heat produced inside the shed) and water soaking into the shed walls and roof.

As you are insulating the walls and roof there is nowhere for damp to get in or out really. The insulation is foil backed so acts a bit like its own vapour barrier. You should probably still use a vapour barrier in the roof (allows steam out but not rain in). You should also treat the external wood so that water runs down it rather than soaking into it

I guess (voodoo time) that you do want about 1 inch of air gap between the external walls and the insulation. That is the advice i was given for solid brick walls. So it might apply to wood

But call the manufacturers as they know all about building regs, current best practice etc
 
Really looks superb

Looking at your cabin, am i right in thinking that there is an automatic 1inch air gap between the cladding and the plastic liner ?

If so, VOODOO ALERT, I would think you could pack the internal cavity with as much of your celotex, kingspan as you can afford. Moisture that gets into the external cladding will have an air gap to breathe into by the looks of things

I was planning to build my own cabin from raw materials, so i am finding your build really interesting

I have an old cedar shed that is fully lined with polythene that has never given a moment's trouble with condensation. So, VOODOO ALERT, I instinctively believe in sealing the walls of sheds like this.
 
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Looking at your cabin, am i right in thinking that there is an automatic 1inch air gap between the cladding and the plastic liner ?

If so, VOODOO ALERT, I would think you could pack the internal cavity with as much of your celotex, kingspan as you can afford. Moisture that gets into the external cladding will have an air gap to breathe into by the looks of things

Good point, I'll double up the walls where I can.
 
VOODOO ALERT, getting it well insulated would be the way to go I think. Certainly I will be doing so

It is MUCH cheaper to run a little dehumidifier than a heater

I think the design of your walls, and that little air gap looks good. If you had celotex squeezed against your external cladding, then you could get sodden walls and trapped liquid - but yours looks bob on to me
 
have you had the VOODOO yet about the different temperatures of internal and external walls and the potential that gives for warping the building ?

these guys just drive you mad
 
It's driven me crazier all this VOODOO that builders spout, being a layman it's hard to know who to listen too and annoying as to know which way is the best option, after-all it's a good wedge of cash to spend on a cabin and I really want to get it right, also a) don't want to spend a fortune heating it whilst at the same time b) don't want to compromise the structure by doing something I think should be OK like doubling up on Celotex only to find I have moisture as it needed an air gap....

Builders are saying 50mm is fine, I have also read that foil-backed stuff needs an air gap one side to make the foil work i.e. keep a pocket of air warm thus acting as another insulation layer, but who the fook knows...

Do I double up or not? I guess worst case is do 50mm see what it's like heating-wise for a year and if needed add some more myself, in either the form of open up walls and add some or simply add insulated plasterboard to all walls...

Added to this the sparky is saying the convection heaters I have got for the cabin are not up to the job and that oil-filled is far better, now I thought all electric rads are 100% efficient, yeah oil will hold the heat for a while but take longer to heat up, so little to no difference...
 
Seriously, just call the manufacturers. I found them really helpful. Most building product manufacturers have in-house technical teams .........

For other enquiries simply phone, email or use the online form to contact the Kingspan Insulation Technical Services Department with your project specification and any number of permutations can be provided to help you achieve your desired targets. The Technical Services Department can provide:
If you require more information about Kingspan Insulation products, please go to the Product Pages or contact the Kingspan Insulation Technical Service Department on the numbers below:

Tel: +44 (0) 1544 387 382
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 387 482
Email: technical@kingspaninsulation.co.uk
 
So I just chatted to Celotex technical support, in my shed structure case filling the 100mm gap is not advised even if there is a moisture gap on the outside between the weatherboards and the membrane.
I should use 50mm insulation and it needs to have the 50mm air gap toward the outside so the Celotex towards the inner of the cabin, either held in place snugly by cutting to an exact size or using a nail.
 
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