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Complete White Water shop - It has ended phew!!!!

I think it's the ohms that has to be right not the wattage?
Both ratings should be as specified. Seems as though pinballs usually seem to use 4 Ohm (hi-fi speakers tend to be 8 Ohm). Amplifiers can often handle a range of loads, e.g., a hi-fi amp might be able to drive between 4 to 16 Ohm loads. Big PA may be as low as 2 Ohms.

As for the Wattage, for the specified impedance the wattage should be at least as high as the amplifier is rated, but preferably higher. My old Bally machines use the TDA2002, an 8 Watt amplifier. I had a look as the schematic for WH2O and it uses an LM1875. This is a 20W power amp and the typical application circuit can drive 4-8 Ohm loads. Manual says the cabinet speaker is 8 Ohm and rated at 25W (the speakers in the backbox also provide additional power handling). Even though it's a 3-way speaker system (high-mid-low) the only crossover component is a 10uF capacitor on the the "tweeter" which provides high-pass filtering of around 4kHz!
 
Correction:

Looking at the circuit, the two 4 Ohm backbox speakers are wired in parallel so total impedance is 2 Ohms. These are then wired in series with the 4 Ohm cabinet speaker, so the the total load presented to the amplifier is 6 Ohms.
 
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Correction:

Looking at the circuit, the two 4 Ohm backbox speakers are wired in parallel so total impedance is 2 Ohms. These are then wired in series with the 4 Ohm cabinet speaker, so the the total load presented to the amplifier is 6 Ohms.

So the 4 ohm 60watt I have ordered should be perfect!!!
 
Both ratings should be as specified. Seems as though pinballs usually seem to use 4 Ohm (hi-fi speakers tend to be 8 Ohm). Amplifiers can often handle a range of loads, e.g., a hi-fi amp might be able to drive between 4 to 16 Ohm loads. Big PA may be as low as 2 Ohms.

As for the Wattage, for the specified impedance the wattage should be at least as high as the amplifier is rated, but preferably higher. My old Bally machines use the TDA2002, an 8 Watt amplifier. I had a look as the schematic for WH2O and it uses an LM1875. This is a 20W power amp and the typical application circuit can drive 4-8 Ohm loads. Manual says the cabinet speaker is 8 Ohm and rated at 25W (the speakers in the backbox also provide additional power handling). Even though it's a 3-way speaker system (high-mid-low) the only crossover component is a 10uF capacitor on the the "tweeter" which provides high-pass filtering of around 4kHz!
That's odd @Nedreud as my manual says its a 4ohm 25 watt speaker???? which one are you looking at ????

Cheers Kev
 
That's odd @Nedreud as my manual says its a 4ohm 25 watt speaker???? which one are you looking at ????

Cheers Kev
DOH! :confused: You're absolutely right. It's 4 Ohms, 25 Watt. I made the same mistake in my previous post hence the colour-coded correction.

Clearly it's been a long difficult day. Let's hope I don't make as many f*** ups whilst cutting up everyone's FISHPAPER this evening... :eek:
 
DOH! :confused: You're absolutely right. It's 4 Ohms, 25 Watt. I made the same mistake in my previous post hence the colour-coded correction.

Clearly it's been a long difficult day. Let's hope I don't make as many f*** ups whilst cutting up everyone's FISHPAPER this evening... :eek:
HAHA!!! nice one man, thought I was reading it all wrong for a minute!!!!!

Cheers Kev
 
Bit more cab work this weekend - coin door all refurbed looks a bit batter than original before shot

P6200293.JPG

and after !!!!

P3080033.JPG

next was the lockdown mech - abit of a turd as you can see!!!!

P3080035.JPG

and after a lot of wire brushing and polishing - not perfect by any means as so badly pitted but a lot better!!!

P3080036.JPG

and installed and cab nearly finished - just the wiring loom and speaker to go in and that's about it !!!!

P3080037.JPG

Cheers Kev
 
Kev. What process did you follow to restore the door?
 
Kev. What process did you follow to restore the door?
fully stripped it down see pic below - sanded it down to remove rust - then grey primer and then sating black paint that I use for the cab edges etc. gives a nice finish

CHeers Kev

P3070031.JPG
 
Well that's it folks!!! - it's been a long hard slog on this beast, but now with the addition of the siderails and wiring loom in, the cab is finished!!! Just the playfield to drop in when I have someone to give me a lift with it, as I don't want to damage the side decals.


I am right in thinking I have put that earth strap from the loom going to the speaker in the wrong place - it should go under the bolt on the side to connect the other earth braid - correct ? (without me opening another machine to take a look!!)

Next job is the head when I get it back from Darren - re-decal and rebuild to do.


couple of pics

P3090040.JPG

P3090038.JPG
 
This is going to be a beauty when it's done newdos, no detail missed. Really appreciate all the updates.
 
Yeah cheers Daz I knew that - was going to wait until a show to get one to save postage - thought you were going to say you had a real topper for a mo :(
Only one I have is sitting on the top of my wh20. :)
 
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