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Complete White Water shop - It has ended phew!!!!

Little bit more cab work today - stripped out all the old knackered earth braiding and replaced it with new - nice and Shiny!!!!

Cab been decalled about two weeks now so next job will be putting it all back together. Also sprayed all the bolt heads nice and black ready for the rebuild - watch this space!!!

IMG_0207.JPG
 
Wish I could spray all my bolt heads black :( unfortunately they're all shiny silver on mine and need to be polished. o_O
 
Quite enjoy polishing though @Nedreud something strangely relaxing about it, and the finished job always looks so good!!!
+1 to that! So true. Last night I cleaned up one of the pop bumper on my GOLD BALL. It's one of the newer style Bally ones with a white plastic base that sits in a big 3" hole in the playfield. All I did was buff the heads of 3 bolts. They sit in recessed hexagonal holes and will be covered by the skirt but they do look so nice and shiny ;)
 
A bit more progress this weekend on the cab

Perhaps a before first as a reminder !!!

P6200398.JPG

And after !!!

P3010023.JPG

P3010024.JPG

Next job try and polish this well rusty and mucky speaker!!!
P3010021.JPG
 
Good luck polishing that turd.
Not the easiest thing to polish a speaker.
 
Good luck polishing that turd.
Not the easiest thing to polish a speaker.
Thanks Daz!!! - the transformer is a pain as well - it doesn't look it in the pic but managed to get all the rust off it but that's about it, and the switch box is galvanized (I think?) so that doesn't come up either so guess the only course would be to start looking for someone local who can chrome plate everything. Do you know if it costs much to do that ?

Cheers Kev
 
Chrome plating costs sh*t loads. You;re better off getting nickel plated or similar as you can get a decent shine when buffed....
 
Chrome plating costs sh*t loads. You;re better off getting nickel plated or similar as you can get a decent shine when buffed....
Didn't you get yours all chromed Paul? what did it cost ?

Cheers Kev
 
Nope - Not Chromed - Nickel Plated. And it was exceedingly cheap (i think to do everything metal I could find - Brackets, Grills, bars etc) it was around £35
 
Nope - Not Chromed - Nickel Plated. And it was exceedingly cheap (i think to do everything metal I could find - Brackets, Grills, bars etc) it was around £35
Gosh that is cheap and would of saved me a hell of a lot of work!!!! so did it need much polishing afterwards to get to the finish shown in your pic of it all on the couch ?

Cheers Kev
 
That was out of the bag. I has a second lot done for Rudi, however didnt come out quite as nice - Still pretty good tho :)
 
That was out of the bag. I has a second lot done for Rudi, however didnt come out quite as nice - Still pretty good tho :)
so did you send it away Paul or someone local to you ? - did you not send all the solenoid brackets from under the playfield etc ?
 
Company in Birmingham - Not as local as i would have liked (around 30 Mins across town), however if you can get it done in one go it was worth it :)

I did i think - they were just in the first batch... (I did it in two lots)...
 
Nice work!

Ditch the speaker though. A tenner will get you a better sounding speaker no matter how much you polish the old one... ;)
 
the transformer is a pain as well
Transformers are a bitch to polish. The steel is particularly tough and because it's made of lots of thin plates the abrasive tends to follow the grooves. I did mine with a belt sander in the end but didn't seal it with clear gloss quickly and it started to rust again!

Chrome plating is expensive. Nickel is much cheaper. In fact, chrome plating when done for decorative purposes is usually done on top of nickel electroplating which is applied over a base of copper. The nickel provides at least 90% or more of the lustre and shine. The chrome just gives that final mirror layer and corrosion protection (chrome takes a lot longer to go dull than nickel).

Because we all know pinball manufacturers have attempted to save costs at every point in the manufacturing process, I can't imagine they have ever done chrome plating and only ever used either nickel plating or polished stainless steel. Chrome plating was even suspended during the Second World War (as was pinball manufacture altogether) and the US even considered banning chrome plating altogether because the chemicals involved are so toxic.

Basically, you can get a great rich shine retro lustre on nickel plated items. More recent items are likely to be either zinc plated or stainless steel, both of which can be polished but will have a different sort of shininess.
 
one to recommend sir ?
I'm assuming that WH2O has speakers in the backbox so this cabinet speaker is mostly for mid to low-end frequencies? We can debate the pros and cons all day till the cows come home, but pretty much anything is going to be better than that 22-year old original cr@p. Depends how much you want to spend?

I was looking at these the other day: http://avslgroup.com/en/product/902.373UK. I found them for sale on Amazon for £9.37 on Amazon: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Wide-range-loudspeaker-16-5cm-6-5/dp/B000LAV4XG

They are a general purpose, heavy-duty PA speaker. Dual cone gives wide, full-range, frequency response from 50Hz to 18kHz (my old Bally's only have a single speaker in the bottom cabinet). Although this particular model is 8 Ohm I was looking to run it in parallel with a pair of 4 Ohm full-range 2" speakers that will be mounted in the grill between cabinet and backbox. This configuration would give an overall impedance of 4 Ohms, which is what the amp in my Bally's is rated for:

3sp-spk1.gif

But looking closely at your photo it looks like your speaker is rated at 8 Ohms anyway. This might not be the highest fidelity speaker ever made but you're sticking it upside down in an un-tuned, non-ported wooden box that's also filled with loads of noisy mechanical parts! It is however very rugged and the cloth edge is much tougher and will last longer than foam. I'm going to put them in my machines and I'm 100% confident they'll be a huge improvement over the originals.

902370.jpg

FULL RANGE GENERAL LOUDSPEAKERS
A range of general purpose speakers with wide frequency response making them ideal for voice and music reproduction. Housed in strong steel baskets with dual paper cone construction, heavy magnets and large voice coils make these speakers a perfect replacement for most applications.
    • Heavy duty
    • Cloth edge
    • Black metal chassis
    • Spade terminals
Model: 902.373UK
Impedance: 8 ohms
Power max.: 100W
Power rms: 50W
Diameter: 16.5cm (6.5")
Frequency response: 50Hz - 18kHz
Magnet weight: 710g (25oz)
SPL @ 1W/1m: 87dB
Voice coil: 2.54cm (1")
Weight: 1.5kg
 
I'm assuming that WH2O has speakers in the backbox so this cabinet speaker is mostly for mid to low-end frequencies? We can debate the pros and cons all day till the cows come home, but pretty much anything is going to be better than that 22-year old original cr@p. Depends how much you want to spend?

I was looking at these the other day: http://avslgroup.com/en/product/902.373UK. I found them for sale on Amazon for £9.37 on Amazon: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Wide-range-loudspeaker-16-5cm-6-5/dp/B000LAV4XG

They are a general purpose, heavy-duty PA speaker. Dual cone gives wide, full-range, frequency response from 50Hz to 18kHz (my old Bally's only have a single speaker in the bottom cabinet). Although this particular model is 8 Ohm I was looking to run it in parallel with a pair of 4 Ohm full-range 2" speakers that will be mounted in the grill between cabinet and backbox. This configuration would give an overall impedance of 4 Ohms, which is what the amp in my Bally's is rated for:


But looking closely at your photo it looks like your speaker is rated at 8 Ohms anyway. This might not be the highest fidelity speaker ever made but you're sticking it upside down in an un-tuned, non-ported wooden box that's also filled with loads of noisy mechanical parts! It is however very rugged and the cloth edge is much tougher and will last longer than foam. I'm going to put them in my machines and I'm 100% confident they'll be a huge improvement over the originals.

View attachment 14443

FULL RANGE GENERAL LOUDSPEAKERS
A range of general purpose speakers with wide frequency response making them ideal for voice and music reproduction. Housed in strong steel baskets with dual paper cone construction, heavy magnets and large voice coils make these speakers a perfect replacement for most applications.
    • Heavy duty
    • Cloth edge
    • Black metal chassis
    • Spade terminals
Model: 902.373UK
Impedance: 8 ohms
Power max.: 100W
Power rms: 50W
Diameter: 16.5cm (6.5")
Frequency response: 50Hz - 18kHz
Magnet weight: 710g (25oz)
SPL @ 1W/1m: 87dB
Voice coil: 2.54cm (1")
Weight: 1.5kg
hi Nedreud - no its 4ohm 25watt so I found this on ebay for a fiver!! looks like it will do the job perfect without overkill - I have ordered one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hi-Fi-Pol...nts_Speaker_Drivers_Horns&hash=item1c4d9910e8

Cheers Kev
 
The one in my blackout is torn it's an 8 ohm 5 watt so not sure if has to be just that or I can get away with a slightly different one as early 80's machines ain't got great amps or sound quality
 
The one in my blackout is torn it's an 8 ohm 5 watt so not sure if has to be just that or I can get away with a slightly different one as early 80's machines ain't got great amps or sound quality
I did find another 8ohm one on ebay take a look. I would stick with 8 ohm as if you put 4ohm in it will draw my current from your amp

Cheers Kev
 
The one in my blackout is torn it's an 8 ohm 5 watt so not sure if has to be just that or I can get away with a slightly different one as early 80's machines ain't got great amps or sound quality

Torn! Was it torn when I had it? If so I'll pay for the speaker mate
 
Yeah but dude ain't no biggie it's 35 yrs old ! Paying for a speaker ain't up to you dude,just trying to get speech n some sounds a little better.
 
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