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Today I worked on......

The Scoop switch has been paying up, failing to register every second shot and after spending a lot of time making adjustments and no dice I ended up experimenting with a 2-part silicon putty and so far it's resolved the problem.
Did you change the switch? I have had this on a couple of other machines now, truthfully 4.....
 
Did you change the switch? I have had this on a couple of other machines now, truthfully 4.....
No replacing was the last resort Phil. I wasn't 100% convinced it was the switch thought I'd try increasing the switch footprint. Do you replace like for like or is it a new switch design?
 
Added the finishing touches with some art blades on Deadpool today, looks as good as it plays now.
 

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Messing about testing some Afterglow boards this morning and quickly realised the room wasn’t shaking, had this sub nearly 20 years and now serves 4 SAM pins.
No power, I remembered when I first got it an internal fuse blew so opened it up and the fuse had blown. Easy fix😎 Room shaking again😂

Also SAM Afterglow boards fitted (Avatar) and now working perfectly after sending back a couple of times for Stumblor to alter the coding as there was a problem, just put another one back in IMVE and that is working nicely too as that one was very strobe before😎 Nice looking boards and cables.

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Messing about testing some Afterglow boards this morning and quickly realised the room wasn’t shaking, had this sub nearly 20 years and now serves 4 SAM pins.
No power, I remembered when I first got it an internal fuse blew so opened it up and the fuse had blown. Easy fix😎 Room shaking again😂

Also SAM Afterglow boards fitted (Avatar) and now working perfectly after sending back a couple of times for Stumblor to alter the coding as there was a problem, just put another one back in IMVE and that is working nicely too as that one was very strobe before😎 Nice looking boards and cables.

View attachment 168188
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Crazy thing is you a bit like me I spend most my time working on my pins than actually playing em. 😂
 
Crazy thing is you a bit like me I spend most my time working on my pins than actually playing em. 😂
Working on them, looking at them, drinking lager looking at them and then drinking more lager and trying to play them. Everyone else just crowds around the quiz machine but the dongle has run out, ohh what a shame and the in-laws were here last week. Wife was asking if I could get a new dongle in time a couple of days before they visited, “sorry luv wouldn’t come in time”😂
 
My Titan order arrived so I went to work on Turtles replacing the rubbers and cleaning spots I’d skipped over on other cleans as they couldn’t be reached without removing stuff.

Not much for most you guys but this is the most stuff I’ve taken off in one go before. Having a break before seeing if I put it all back right! The hard post plastics were the only stock items I was keeping on as I’ve found the rubbers don’t last too long on some posts but I might change my mind as I’m not sure on the black look vs clear everywhere else except flippers 🤔

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Over the weekend the lower right VUK on creech stopped working, which has happened in the past. Easy fix I thought, either ...

a) the driver wire has come loose on the coil (it's near the edge so can get bumped raising the playfield)
b) the ribbon cable needs a wiggle, or
c) the drive molex pin has come loose in the connection

It was none of these things. Switch all fine, coil didn't fire in test mode. Tranny was fine, and grounding it fired the coil. Wtaf.

Out comes the logic probe. The shift register that sends the signal to the transistor was doing its job OK, so moved onto the resistor which was next in the chain. Low and behold, signal on one side - nothing on the other.

1651598031339.png

Now, the reason I bring this up, is that I've NEVER had a resistor fail before. Am I too green? Has this happened to anyone else??

This is a Rottendog board so I guess anything is possible :-/
 
That is a bit surprising! Could it be a cold solder joint on one end of the resistor? What does it measure out of circuit?

Resistors rarely fail "on their own" - there is usually an external factor like temperature, corrosion, etc.
 
Yes the only other thing I was thinking was if they were under rated for the circuit, but surely the transistor or the IC before it would fail under load before they would.

Not sure what the measurements are yet, pulling out a driver board isn't a 'before dinner' kinda job ;-)
 
Today it was time to fix the wrinkles on a couple of Manny cabs, don’t know why metal cab protectors were not fitted as we all know what happens with new decals.
Hair dryer, scalpel, metal protectors and some pulling off and flattening back and it came out ok. Been annoying me for ages and now I can do some proper nudging😂
My FT Manny cab has felt protectors and still ok but I’m going to put some metal ones on there too.
 

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Over the weekend the lower right VUK on creech stopped working, which has happened in the past. Easy fix I thought, either ...

a) the driver wire has come loose on the coil (it's near the edge so can get bumped raising the playfield)
b) the ribbon cable needs a wiggle, or
c) the drive molex pin has come loose in the connection

It was none of these things. Switch all fine, coil didn't fire in test mode. Tranny was fine, and grounding it fired the coil. Wtaf.

Out comes the logic probe. The shift register that sends the signal to the transistor was doing its job OK, so moved onto the resistor which was next in the chain. Low and behold, signal on one side - nothing on the other.

View attachment 168822

Now, the reason I bring this up, is that I've NEVER had a resistor fail before. Am I too green? Has this happened to anyone else??

This is a Rottendog board so I guess anything is possible :-/

So the resistor wasn't the problem. Pulled the PB out again. Found that Q78 had a dodgy ground pin, so repaired that. Not the problem either....

I'm getting well sick of pulling this PB out. I need a test rig.

My experience with transistors failing is that they become 'always on'. Can they fail in the other direction also, where they just don't respond to pulses?
 
Fitted a remote battery holder to CV as the existing one had small traces of corrosion, and leaking batteries terrify me anyway.

The black mibenco tin is some liquid rubber for mechanical relief of the cables - forgot to take a pic after applying that and before putting the board back...

Managed to keep all the high scores intact in the process :) @DAD is that your GC score??
 

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Finished 90% of the fabrication work on my T2 topper. Just needs a bit more sanding to the welds and the risers/legs machined.
The plan is to get it chromed and add some colour acrylic and led strips to light it.
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Picked up Paragon TT quiz machine at the weekend for a bit more than the credits on the dongle were worth, I've had mine for a few years and the screen was not good along with a dodgy pc.
The credits on the dongle had run out so luckily the one on the left came along and solved all my problems for next to nothing as I was going to have to buy credits.
My cab was much better so swopped the screen, pc and a few bits from one to the other and as good as new now. Have a new fan on order as quite noisy.
This is the machine that everyone crowds around when we have a 9iss up here, pins don’t get a look in and much cheaper!4490716C-9997-479D-80D7-BDF50C9D9D71.jpeg

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Happy wife happy life!
 

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why do these machine have credits and dongles? no idea about these games
Same with the newer fruit machines, the company who writes the software charges about 4p every game played at 50p a go.
They send you what looks like a cr2032 battery to fit into the dongle to renew your credit.
I was told by an amusements company that you can send the dongle off to somebody just before it runs out to top up for half price as he can hack it but never followed it up.

There is another hack if you know how to set the hard drive up with different software and front end but not the same games.
 
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