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Spooky - Rick and Morty Pinball

I've no idea but like I said Charlie has always replied quickly, maybe he'll kick the other guy into responding. Spooky Luke is another I've had emails with.
 
The guy who was dealing with my support request, christopher?

Who should I escalate to would you say?

Christopher is their first line guy and runs PinballStar - he is a good guy but I think you need to get this to Charlie really.

Cheers,
Neil.
 
Aren't we conflating issues? Not being able to drive single wound coils consistently with pwm doesn't mean that changing 48v to 70v will fix the problem.

We have in R&M a game that uses single wound coils and 48v to drive them, and a flipper problem. Likewise we have numerous other games that use double wound coils and 48v and have no problem.

Doesn't it seem more likely the issue is the coils?

The reason to discuss 70v and 48v difference is to try to understand why spooky dont seem to want to use std dual wound parallel coils with a stock 2 mosfet drive scenario. As was quoted to me earlier they stopped using/never used recently the dual wound coils with the hold coil thats designed to mitigate fade and overheating and is a standard we all know works going back years and years. Hell, you dont even need to use mosfets, you could go back to system11 era high power switch dual wound coils if you really wanted to save money.

And yes i fully understand all the technical info along with knowing all the people you shared links for pretty well to.

Scott even uses the system 11 setup for prototype testing of playfield layout shots etc see here - > https://www.scottdanesi.com

I just dont understand the use of pwm coils as a choice...
 
So what you're saying is you suspect the decision is use single wound has something to do with using 48v? Dual wound can be run on 48v too though right?

(Just to be clear - not suggesting I know better - I'm not fully across the technicalities or know the people personally. Just asking some questions for myself)
 
Looking at the pinside thread, blame is now being aimed at the flipper return springs being too strong, some claiming changing them to weaker stern/DE/Sega springs helps a lot with the knockdowns and heat build up. I've yet to try it, I guess anything is possible.
 
Is that coming from spooky?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
No, from the Pinside r+m owners thread. The return springs are indeed massive and although
I haven’t had the problems others have had I will maybe change them.
 
Rick and Morty Saucer plastic replacement.
Kevlar sent me his saucer plastic to see if I could somehow make it a little more durable so I have made these.
It’s probs worth grabbing at least one for a spare and I am doing them for free so nothing to lose.

Pm with your address if you want one posting out.

571DDD7E-6661-4EAB-9F53-C816DBC6F071.jpeg

Checking it’s pliability
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When pushed to failure
D7AD18A3-F64E-4B6A-89E8-C2D0CF3BA0A0.jpeg

D29FAE1F-B39E-4A7F-865D-58034E08142C.jpeg
 
Nice work Col. Pm'd. They're a pain to change btw, you have to remove both ramps, the house and deflector above it and then the large horse show plastic.
 
I finally moved R&M home from my mates place on Weds with the help of Martin @gopinball. Quick note on that front - to remove the head he had to cut a wire which looped up from the cabinet into one side of the backbox, and then back down into the cab on the other side. Strange decision to build it that way. Very happy to have it home though and really enjoying it so far, it isn't an easy game but I keep hitting the start button and when a game comes together it's very satisfying.

With the latest code its playing well with only minimal knockdown to the right flipper when the scoops ejects, but it recovers almost instantly. Hitting the left ramp is possible but tricky. What coil settings are those of you who've had the game home for a couple of months using?

The game does take two attempts to eject the ball from the trough into the shooter lane every single time, and it looks as if the initial eject is too hard and the ball bounces off the right side of the shooter lane back into the trough. Playing around with the coil settings hasn't helped much. Has anyone else had this problem / what coil settings are you all using for the trough eject?

Also - what sort of scores are people getting? I tried to avoid watching videos of the game so I could go in fairly blind but I have no idea what a decent score is. Best I've got in the first 48 hours is a bit over 32 million.
 
Looking at the pinside thread, blame is now being aimed at the flipper return springs being too strong, some claiming changing them to weaker stern/DE/Sega springs helps a lot with the knockdowns and heat build up. I've yet to try it, I guess anything is possible.

Martin mentioned that the return springs seemed much stronger than normal so I asked him to leave me with a couple of standard springs just in case this turns out to be true. Has anyone tried switching them over?
 
Martin mentioned that the return springs seemed much stronger than normal so I asked him to leave me with a couple of standard springs just in case this turns out to be true. Has anyone tried switching them over?
I bought some stern return springs but to me they seem just as strong as the spooky ones. More experimenting to do there when I can get some weaker springs. Trough eject at 18, works every time. At 20 I used to get the odd ball take 2 attempts to get out so lowered it recently to 18 and it's been fine since

Flippers ...
Both lower flippers on 32, upper on 25. All flippers on high hold power and aggressive pulse pattern. Ridiculous that there's so many adjustments. My flippers are fine but I did notice after a really long game recently a bit of fade so have the fans on order. I always thought the fans were ******** and not needed until recently but now I think both R&M and AIQ will not last well in a league meet without them.

I altered my left ramp a little, pulled it across to the right as far as I could and screwed it down there to open up the entrance slightly which is partially blocked on the left side. Also packed the front up 1/8" with thick washers to take out a lot of the bend in the ramp flap which I felt was removing some of the ball speed. Keep the ramp well waxed too if you're struggling.
 
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Put the new code on 11/5/21 test release. it's the best it's ever been for me. Played 7 games, can make the left ramp shot on the last game. Fantastic! thanks @kevlar
 
Put the new code on 11/5/21 test release. it's the best it's ever been for me. Played 7 games, can make the left ramp shot on the last game. Fantastic! thanks @kevlar
I'm not sure why your machine was so bad but I'm glad to hear you can finally enjoy it, it is an awesome machine.
 
Is it possible / easy to roll back to the previous software if this code makes things worse? It looks positive, but it seems that everyone's machine is different...
 
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