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First Pin project. Mr & Mrs Pacman

Folks, was hoping to pick up an Alltek mpu end of the month to start looking into getting the pin up and running but noticed they are out of stock (since I last checked) at

I've spotted the eurodash boards for a similar price in the UK. Though no one here recommend that brand. It was all votes for Alltek, any particular reason for that?


Thanks

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
 
Altek are well known proven tech that are changeable between older games. Can't say I've particularly heard of the eurodash boards.
 
The eurodash board is designed/produced by Jamie at coinop king. You have to install the relevant game ROMS into it, so not as easy to use as the Alltek board.

https://www.coinopking.co.uk/pinballspareparts?category=Circuit+Boards
Yeah I saw they will include a set of ROMs for free on request. But maybe it's all just easier with an Alltek. I'll have to wait until they come back in stock I guess, feel like a tube for not buying it the other week [emoji849]

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Made a start on cleaning the play field yesterday, and bloody hell it's no easy task. I'm chewing through magic erasers like crazy.

Took the majority of the surface grime and gunk off with 99% IPA very cautiously fearing it might take the paint off./, Thankfully it didn't. Then I used Novus 2 with the magic eraser but I burnt through two erasers in a single day and honestly only got a couple of keys scrubbed. Me multi pack of erasers already ordered.

Couple of questions though.

1. I noticed the clear coat on the unpainted areas like the drain the plunger area has wore away. I assume I can just spot clear coat this back on and wax & polish to smooth the surface?

2. Also I noticed at the upper end of the shooter lane is not smooth at all. It's like someone sanded it, didn't remove the debris and then clear coated it. Surely this needs to be super smooth?
e5a2d8b7bae8a8ac5bc2fb040c369e74.jpgc5a7c2df9e8b7c5f6e1706ef2201ca8b.jpgcce7f38f6d96a32f16651b0f50a29bbe.jpga19c3e2f9545f347278bb502a2febbc4.jpg315c00c4d450ce4861af152173cfbb89.jpg28e9b5409d34e7f57f32794a6c6c4a19.jpgc49f105ba80993716fe82e6b14768848.jpgeed15ce5f8c6e99a1bdebe82e6c55a76.jpg644228d9ea4c37f6438a43dce8385635.jpg4cebcf96d5893d7ce38f94a178ad283f.jpg450b41eb69f73dfce0956e9019eec302.jpg
 
Looking good [emoji106]
Some people have clear coat the whole area of the plunger , not done that myself though !!
I'd definitely need to do something with it that's for sure. I wonder if I should sand to a smooth finish and then clear coat [emoji51] hopefully not making a dog's dinner of it

Sent from my LE2113 using Tapatalk
 
After all the fantastic & extremely rationale advice from you guys, rather than suffer the battery leakage issues with my existing board I finally got my hands on an Alltek MPU today. That's my plans for the weekend sorted [emoji1696]79dd23ed37fb1e312821ff1f340b4c29.jpg

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Folks. I feel I've made a mistake here. I bought the Bally 05/1980-03/1988 flipper rebuild kit for my machine.

And I'm missing a coil bracket and upon asking on Facebook forums about it I'm still being told to get better flippers [emoji58]

Have I foolishly fallen victim to just buying a new version of the original bad design and should have purchased a link version instead? And if so what link set would work on this machine?

Alternatively if the kit I have is ok could someone point me to somewhere in the UK to get one of the coil brackets please, I'm struggling to find a retailer who has them.

956640d6ad2cdea40f6948656da253fa.jpge910320ab26d1d24936f631159f0fbee.jpg7a7cc0dc68627af51ed0addd48dbea9e.jpg84e5e153271a79cedd32d57cace19c18.jpg

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I’d send Andy an email at pinball mania, he has loads of stuff not listed on his site.

people are always telling people to replace linear flippers but I’d stick with the originals I think...

failing Andy I’d try Dave at pinballhaze or Phil at pinball heaven

www.pinballmania.co.uk
https://www.facebook.com/Pinball-Daze-316896398383225/
www.pinball.do.uk

don’t know what’s going wrong with those links, might need to copy and paste
 
considering the amount of people who hate linear flippers and replace them with the earlier ones,someone must have that bracket in their spares
 
I’d send Andy an email at pinball mania, he has loads of stuff not listed on his site.

people are always telling people to replace linear flippers but I’d stick with the originals I think...

failing Andy I’d try Dave at pinballhaze or Phil at pinball heaven

www.pinballmania.co.uk
https://www.facebook.com/Pinball-Daze-316896398383225/
www.pinball.do.uk

don’t know what’s going wrong with those links, might need to copy and paste
Brilliant Ian. I'm already in talks with Andy about gets some more blubs ordered in for the pacmaze, so I'll ask him about this also

And thanks for the reassurance of the linear flippers. Might not be the best but I'd like to experience the fame as it was intended.



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Latest update on the machine, I've borked the power rectifier I think. Like a Muppet I wasn't getting GI for some reason after I replaced my flipper mechs. Only underplay field lighting was working. All lighting once worked after I installed the new MPU a month ago. No clue what I did wrong but I'd say, having the machine powered up and pulling bulbs wasn't smart.

Now I'm not getting any conductivity on BR2 from the +/- points on the rectifer board. Idiot [emoji17]ea9ac72a9719cd913326b810725cbb52.jpg

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have you got your meter on dc voltage?

do you get an ac voltage across the two ac pins of the bride rectifier (put your meter) on ac voltage to check this

have you checked the fuses on that power board
 
The fuses are all conducting so nothing blown there I think. I'm getting 7.3v on TP1 , 6.1v on TP4

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Question - What do people use to mask off windows etc before spraying... Anyone got a video of the process??
(I'm looking to use this not on a pin but an old 70's Brenco Silver Chest where the glass is _Just_ starting to go on the bottom...)

View attachment 136740
In the 'This Old Pinball' videos they just lay down some thick card cut to size over the windows and spray on the triple thick @Paul

Edit; with a coin on top as Carl mentioned. It in one of the EM restore videos.
 
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If part of your gi has gone, and part still working then i’d check connectors on the wires from the playfield that plug into other things - especially if there are any in-Line connector to connectors as those can come loose if not pushed fully home
 
As it turns out it's all the GI not working. The single bulb on the left that's working is actually the credit insert bulb. I will recheck all connections though once again. Nightmare

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We are back business. I took out the power rectifier board, and the lamp driver board. Cleaned around connectors with 99% IPA. Took out fuses and gave them a clean. Plugged it all back in and hooked up the Pacmaze board. And boom it's all working again (well the bulbs that were lighting up before, there's still some not working even with new bulbs) Phew not as bad as I thought 646aef884785f5fb86d79f0c5a98b85b.jpg

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Well I'm back again... Spoke too soon. The GI is still not working, and now that single bulb that was under the credit light is now longer working either [emoji3062] I've poked about the rectifier board and noticed the R1 600 ohm 10 watt ceramic resistor was hot to touch, like really frigging hot. Tested for continuity across and got nothing. The smaller ceramic resistor beside it is giving continuity so I'm assuming this might be culprit.

I'll get this machine working by 2026 at this rate [emoji28]



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it should get hot. if it’s getting hot it’s working
Damn... But no continuity? Crap just when I thought I'd maybe figured it out the issue. Not sure where to check now then.

No GI at all anymore and sporadic lights under the playfield including the pacmaze work

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