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First Pin project. Mr & Mrs Pacman

Id say that those handfull of components would be a waste of time anyhow, looking at your pics the corrosion has affected the metal so you would need a lot of the components and sockets etc replaced, its basically beyond economical repair, salute you for trying to repair but you will end up chasing your tail wondering if you have badly soldered a component you have replaced or if its an other component further along that needs replaced etc

Id just bite the bullet and get a new board, probably be cheaper than replacing all that needs replaced anyhow. I have an alltek board you could get a loan of (or buy if you prefer)
Think you are fairly near to me?

Cheers
Ian
 
I am another voice saying to replace it.
You want to learn on something where a test shows a component is bad and replacing it gives a positive test that you have fixed it. Otherwise, you will be chasing an issue and getting frustrated.
Plus, the money and time you spend may still be wasted as it may be beyond repair.

You will find other parts that will be worth your effort.
 
BigIan said:
Id say that those handfull of components would be a waste of time anyhow, looking at your pics the corrosion has affected the metal so you would need a lot of the components and sockets etc replaced, its basically beyond economical repair, salute you for trying to repair but you will end up chasing your tail wondering if you have badly soldered a component you have replaced or if its an other component further along that needs replaced etc

Id just bite the bullet and get a new board, probably be cheaper than replacing all that needs replaced anyhow. I have an alltek board you could get a loan of (or buy if you prefer)
Think you are fairly near to me?

Cheers
Ian
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I fully trust the judgement of those of here more than my own excitement to learn and if the community says "do yourself a favour... replace it" then that's that.

I'm in Belfast Ian so yeah not far I believe. I'd happily purchase the replacement board from you to get the first section of work underway in bringing the pin to life. Like others have said there's plenty to keep me busy elsewhere outside of the mpu



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Just for full visibility, here are some better pics after I gave it a scrub with some IPA. looks fairly knackered 09a5a42b544e5371d94a67da09ac1b9e.jpga312df0db6a97588701bf9611c344851.jpg3b86374b14b949204cded858e7bb2b50.jpg3e2a69cfae5f29227609a7b8b4e3f407.jpgeb3f9364ced733b6b29ce6f389b5289a.jpgc0d81397b6c16120f51f3ec75228abb4.jpgfa808147c1b093641e03d968fae49bdb.jpg

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Just a heads up folks. Anyone after the Krylon Triple thick you can get it from Jacksons for a semi reasonable price. Most places were charging nearly £30 postage.

DPD courier had it with me in 2days. Being in Northern Ireland it's a right pain to get pressurised containers delivered.

£17.40 for the product and £14 for delivery.


www.jacksonsart.com

Krylon : Triple Thick Glaze : 12oz

Krylon® Triple Thick is a clear glaze which offers a bright, high-gloss finish that looks like glass and gives the illusion of depth. One coat equals approximately three coats of most clear coatings. It offers a permanent, protective, extra high gloss finish.
www.jacksonsart.com www.jacksonsart.com

Hopefully this will be me saving my backglass this weekend [emoji1696]

(Kitten not included)
6e6162e140ebe53f3c92bb15d49e64ab.jpg
 
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itsmecurrie said:
Amazing that's a great idea. I honestly must say the pinball community is something else. The amount of great advice I've received in such a short space of time is fantastic.

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I have repaired boards in better states than yours, and one wet fart near them and they go wrong, then star working... I swapped to a modern board and never looked back.
 
Biff said:
I have repaired boards in better states than yours, and one wet fart near them and they go wrong, then star working... I swapped to a modern board and never looked back.
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Yeah I've decided to follow everyone's solid advice and listen to wise wise words of experience. It'll be an Alltek board going into this and this mpu being set aside.

I've also purchased all new fuses, rubbers and a flipper rebuild kit with extra right side as I was informed on a Pinball Repair FB group to ditch the linears.

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It is a great game and i have fond memories at the seaside as a kid with no money left, pressing the flipper button to get the whaka whaka whaka atract mode then 'Pack man' at the end :-)
 
itsmecurrie said:
Just a heads up folks. Anyone after the Krylon Triple thick you can get it from Jacksons for a semi reasonable price. Most places were charging nearly £30 postage.

DPD courier had it with me in 2days. Being in Northern Ireland it's a right pain to get pressurised containers delivered.

£17.40 for the product and £14 for delivery.


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Hopefully this will be me saving my backglass this weekend [emoji1696]

(Kitten not included)
6e6162e140ebe53f3c92bb15d49e64ab.jpg
Click to expand...

And as if by magic - arrived this morning... Really quick delivery! Thanks for the heads up @itsmecurrie
 
Paul said:
And as if by magic - arrived this morning... Really quick delivery! Thanks for the heads up @itsmecurrie
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Excellent [emoji108] I was all for spraying mine last night and then realised I need to hit my scratches with a thinner clear coat first to seal before touching up with acrylic paint prior to fully sealing with triple thick. My eagerness nearly got the best of me.

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Question - What do people use to mask off windows etc before spraying... Anyone got a video of the process??
(I'm looking to use this not on a pin but an old 70's Brenco Silver Chest where the glass is _Just_ starting to go on the bottom...)

1618567308592.png
 
Paul said:
Question - What do people use to mask off windows etc before spraying... Anyone got a video of the process??
(I'm looking to use this not on a pin but an old 70's Brenco Silver Chest where the glass is _Just_ starting to go on the bottom...)

View attachment 136740
Click to expand...

I believe it's just frog tape cut to size. There's a few more videos out there

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be careful when removing the tape though,as it can lift the edges of the artwork
 
stevebm1 said:
be careful when removing the tape though,as it can lift the edges of the artwork
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I've read people cut the tape a tad smaller than the masking area so that it doesn't touch the paint. On my backglass someone had electrical tape on the edge that had turned to a hard mess. Ofcourse no matter how gentle I was, it still took a small chip off. Should probably have used a hair dryer to soften it first. Doh!

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Just noticed this particular light covering in my maze is slightly sunken compared to the others. There's a noticeable lip, and wondering if this is a big deal in the grand scheme of things or will it be an issue during play and any ideas on a fix folks? c454e126b25158f6718e4e4af9faeedf.jpg

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itsmecurrie said:
Just noticed this particular light covering in my maze is slightly sunken compared to the others. There's a noticeable lip, and wondering if this is a big deal in the grand scheme of things or will it be an issue during play and any ideas on a fix folks? c454e126b25158f6718e4e4af9faeedf.jpg

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
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Take a heat gun or a hairdryer and heat the insert from beneath to soften the glue. Remove the insert, clean it up, reglue and reset in the recess. Roberts yer mothers brother
 
Spot clear coated (rustolem clear coat for a thinner finish) on the scratched areas of my backglass. Touched them up today with some acrylics and you know what, I'm happy with that [emoji28] not perfect but much better. Once dry I'll triple thick the back to preserve it and to avoid any future mishaps on my part d3825aba7631c91dbd9dbcc7a6443f54.jpg4e174403a5776b2f8679e206707f9823.jpg

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
 
Paul said:
Question - What do people use to mask off windows etc before spraying... Anyone got a video of the process??
(I'm looking to use this not on a pin but an old 70's Brenco Silver Chest where the glass is _Just_ starting to go on the bottom...)

View attachment 136740
Click to expand...
I remember reading somewhere the best way and what I did was to cut up a cereal box for the windows and place coins on the piece of card to stop them moving !
 
@itsmecurrie the power board is the first one to sort out first ,them it's the solenoid driver board which will give you the all important 5v for the mpu .The last thing you want is to is to put a new mpu in and it gets fryied because it got to much power off the sol board .
 
carl lawrence said:
@itsmecurrie the power board is the first one to sort out first ,them it's the solenoid driver board which will give you the all important 5v for the mpu .The last thing you want is to is to put a new mpu in and it gets fryied because it got to much power off the sol board .
Click to expand...
I'll have to start researching how to investigate and troubleshoot these. Electronics isn't my strong point but I'll try my best

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