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Complete Creature from the faded lagoon

looking back through some of your earlier photos - this game has gone through a batch of post adjustment - or rather move the post because the timber has been flogged out in the original locations.

you didn't have a close up but the post behind the targets closest to the ramp, but it looks like it has been moved. It that is the case, secure the plate to the 3 other mount points and relocate the lower post near the ramp. The mount plate should be flush and parallel with the SS rail that leads up to the scoop.

also the post near ramp needs to have one of those white post sleeves to support the old plastic or this SS plate.
 
swinks said:
@s000m

- ensure the top is removed
- loosen off the 3 other mount points
- insert the screw through the plate into the post left of the scoop
- once all in place tighten all of the down (ensuring the spare washer in the kit is placed over the plate near the ramp otherwise the nut bottoms out on the post before it tightens the plate)

Over all I have sold over 300 of these and never heard or got feedback of fitment issues so if the above does not work then , someone must of changed a post location as the slots at the top are wide enough for the plate to adjust to post variance.
Click to expand...
Perfect thank you for the advice!
Definitely not inferring the issue with your mod here. It's undoubtedly post positions. This playfield got abused...
 
My ramp is stuck in import hell (THANKS BREXIT)

been stuck for a week :(


While I wait I've cleaned up the lock bars...


PXL_20220407_150256521.jpg
 
Pinsound up and running. Will need to change to a custom mix to get the most out of it

Will tidy up the wiring tomorrow.

PXL_20220409_211412177.jpg

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Did some more patchwork in prep for the wife's touch up.

PXL_20220410_211242076.jpg
 
Looked and saw the fuse holder was empty...

Is this janky mod safe?

PXL_20220410_201536331.jpgPXL_20220410_201729176.jpg
 
Replaced a nackered coil and insulated it due to the copper wire being damn close to the metal mount.

BSD was arc'ing due to this very position but other positions won't work due to it being so close to the playfield edge.

PXL_20220410_142136839.jpg

PXL_20220410_151927954.jpg
 
Some additional minor ramp area playfield touch up and added custom sound to the game.

Also cleaned a flipper dirty opto causing a F8 error. Adjusted and cleaned a popper.

Finally replaced the ramp incandescents with LEDs thanks to @stumblor for the pointer on where to buy em.
PXL_20220411_214144547.jpg

PXL_20220411_182805421.jpg

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I swear I have the worst luck with packages.

Useless UPS.JPG

On top of that my BSD Topper is lost due to 'incomplete address data' according to the tracking information.

FFS.
 
s000m said:
Replaced a nackered coil and insulated it due to the copper wire being damn close to the metal mount.

BSD was arc'ing due to this very position but other positions won't work due to it being so close to the playfield edge.

View attachment 166705

View attachment 166706
Click to expand...

I damaged a slingshot coil on Getaway like that, while sliding the playfield forward. Would the coil not fit the other way up, with the sleeve reversed? A slingshot was alright, but a ball feeder may have the linkage too close.

Many years ago, I asked the late Bob Thomson if it was okay to do this -my basic knowledge of electro-magnetism suggested that it wouldn't work, since the force produced would also be reversed. But he pointed out that the current used is 'pulsating DC' and it actually didn't matter. This was confirmed when Williams did so with flipper coils, even making a cut-out in the coil bracket (rather than the end stop) to allow it.

btw, is 'bsd' in this case Ball Server Device?
 
Jay Walker said:
I damaged a slingshot coil on Getaway like that, while sliding the playfield forward. Would the coil not fit the other way up, with the sleeve reversed? A slingshot was alright, but a ball feeder may have the linkage too close.

Many years ago, I asked the late Bob Thomson if it was okay to do this -my basic knowledge of electro-magnetism suggested that it wouldn't work, since the force produced would also be reversed. But he pointed out that the current used is 'pulsating DC' and it actually didn't matter. This was confirmed when Williams did so with flipper coils, even making a cut-out in the coil bracket (rather than the end stop) to allow it.

btw, is 'bsd' in this case Ball Server Device?
Click to expand...

Yh I tried reverse no dice was causing an obstruction.

BSD refers to Bram Stoker's Dracula. 🙂

I (stupidly) have 3 projects on the go.
 
So after constant calling and getting no where I put up a 1 star review on Trust pilot about UPS this morning. By the afternoon the package was released and its now arriving on Tuesday. THANK GOD.

I can finally get to finishing the top side.

In preperation for the HolomodSP I've bought new caps. My soldering skills are 'OK' but I lack. I suppose the confidence to recap a board at the moment. I'm going to a mates to finish re-capping the board.

Next week should be really interesting.

  • The mods from Stumblor should arrive
  • The new ramps and fish bowl
  • New flippers
  • Hopefully even the Holomod
  • New insert decals to tart up the playfield (no more rare blue @stumblor

I need a new screen eventually not sure to go down Pin2DMD or ColorDMD at the moment.

Driver board is out and will be re-capped on Monday.

Its all finally coming together.

Scott
 
What are you going to top the decals with? Mylar, clearcoat or a protector?

I didn't think it was wise to have decals on the top layer of a pf as the ball damages them. At least I was advised to clearcoat any touch ups I did. I'm not sure though!
 
David_Vi said:
What are you going to top the decals with? Mylar, clearcoat or a protector?

I didn't think it was wise to have decals on the top layer of a pf as the ball damages them. At least I was advised to clearcoat any touch ups I did. I'm not sure though!
Click to expand...

Clearcoat.
🙂
 
In preperation for the LCD lagoon mod I needed to recap the WPC Driver Board. With much assistance from @Mfresh the replacement caps are now fitted.

Had a 'uh oh' moment when I got back and nothing powered on but then noticed one of the Caps wasn't fully flush with the PCB. Reflowed the Cap and reseated it. Added some more solder to cover the leg and voila the machine works again!

I'm confident doing my own caps now thanks to some invaluable knowledge share from @Mfresh.

Tomorrow the ramps should arrive and I can get really stuck in with finishing this machine!

PXL_20220418_150840315.jpg
 
Need help 😔

Put the speaker panel back on and noticed the insert LEDs were out. They were definitely on prior as o recorded a video.

I take the board back out and reflow the capacitors. I check continuity. Had the black and red wire in reverse at first... D'oh check them with the correct polarity and get continuity...


Go to plug it all back in and just a soft red led lights up on the board then nothing. Now it's completely dead....


I checked the fuse in the cabinet that's fine.

I checked the fuses in the driver board. They are also fine...

Could testing the capacitors with the leads in reverse have caused this?
 
Just to confirm, you are testing the fuses out of circuit, and using continuity test on a dmm?

With regards to in circuit cap continuity checks, you are better off checking the positive terminal to its connection point and negative to ground, rather than between the legs

https://www.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/gby42i

They shouldn't buzz between legs
 
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