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TILT!Audio 1.25 with "red board" is out

ok the user in pinside is trying a new pi ... I have done this no change he has 2 boards with both the same fault ... same pi
 
@steve45 is on holiday, he has a 2.5g board coming out with the amps in a different place.

Just looking at the soundsets

If the folders and sounds are called 000001 000002 000004 000005 and so on I take it they are not scrambled ?

If the folders and sounds names do not match and are called 203011 542032 345214 211435 and so on I take it they are scrambled ?

There are downloads quoted for a descramblers but they are all missing.
 
ok - why not grab one of the known working soundsets just to confirm if it functions or not...
 
Now I have been playing & working with electronics for 40 years and I may make myself look stupid here please ignore the fact the board looks like a dogs dinner now with broken pads because of removing the IC but I have found no GND to LCX374 Pin10 or LCX00D pin 7 and there should be. Where I have twice scratched an X into the solder mask there is NO GND. Those areas link to pin10 & pin 7 of those ICs the other tracks break the areas from the overall grounding all over the board.

Looking at a picture of 2.5d & 2.5e the tracks are different to the WPC connector and do not break the GND at least to the LCX00 chip. The track arrangement around pin10 of the LCX374 different also.
 

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Looks like this has just come out at the right time for me. I was seriously considering a PinSound kit for my DE Star Wars restoration but this seems way cheaper and more fun especially as I will have to build it myself. Hopefully someone has already done a sound pack for DE Star Wars as doing all of that myself sounds like a drag unless there is a way of using the Pinsound files.
 
Excuse my ignorance, but apart from the price what is the difference between the v1.9 and v2.5 kits?
 
Yeah, thanks. I did find that link. I do hope stwr is DE SW, that would be handy.
Can I get away with ordering the v1.9 kit. I don’t need extra IO for shaker motors or lights assuming that is the only difference.
 
Now I have been playing & working with electronics for 40 years and I may make myself look stupid here please ignore the fact the board looks like a dogs dinner now with broken pads because of removing the IC but I have found no GND to LCX374 Pin10 or LCX00D pin 7 and there should be. Where I have twice scratched an X into the solder mask there is NO GND. Those areas link to pin10 & pin 7 of those ICs the other tracks break the areas from the overall grounding all over the board.

Looking at a picture of 2.5d & 2.5e the tracks are different to the WPC connector and do not break the GND at least to the LCX00 chip. The track arrangement around pin10 of the LCX374 different also.

So theres an error on the pcb? join the pins with wire and see if it works ok.
 
@steve45 - noticed on pinside you have said there is an error on the board.
Can you confirm you are making new PCBs?
Also - out of interest - why dont you use normal size chips, rather than small SMT ones that some are having trouble soldering. You are only using 3 chips - why not just put in sockets and use full sized chips. Your PCB is more than big enough to accommodate this.
 
I've just bought a Pinsound, Black Friday. Its a shame think @steve45 was onto a cracker of a project with this but it looks like it is now being slowly forgotten about no activity on here or pinside.
 
He's probably just busy. It's not a commercial product at the end of the day
 
I believe it is the hardware as in the area of the circuit that talks to the Pi unfortunately the issues many users were having Steve did not have on his Pinballs.
 
Did you not try putting the older ROM in your getaway?
 
No I had an L-2 that I took out when i changed to Pauls L-5 but i could not find it, i have got a Funhouse to try but in the end after rebuilding the board, new ribbons etc I just got fed up with it so stopped.
 
If you unplug the DMD board it works a lot better so If steve or someone else could look at the circuit the translates to the ICs and the PI it could probably be fixed. I ran the faulty board at first that had no 0v to a couple of the ICs so they were basically off, after fixing that I just got the same issues so that circuit must be flawed. At the end of the day if Pinsound can make a board that reads the bus perfectly so can someone else.
 
What I did notice with pinsound is on a pals flintstones if you start a game and don’t launch the ball it doesn’t loop the music. It just stops! This is using original files and modified ones
Not dissing Pinsound could just be a bug on one game.
I am shocked Steve has left this thread and other people hanging. He shouldn’t be still selling a product that he knows does not work.
Has he been communicating on pin side?
I think I’d still buy a pinsound these days. Something about plug and play and not build & cross yours fingers!
 
He has not commented on Pinside for over a month ok so he may be busy etc but looking at the stats he has been on Pinside most days. This is why I basically walked away. He was developing new things like triggers to LEDs etc which is a good idea but I would have thought there was a need to fix the underlying issues first.
 
He has not commented on Pinside for over a month ok so he may be busy etc but looking at the stats he has been on Pinside most days. This is why I basically walked away. He was developing new things like triggers to LEDs etc which is a good idea but I would have thought there was a need to fix the underlying issues first.
Absolutely correct. Fix it and don’t sell anymore !
I know he is part of the pin2dmd project too.
The trigger out I was very interested in playing with.
Did you sell yours on? Or put it in the bin @Nutty ?
 
Not in the bin yet, I have just shelved it waiting for hopefully some one else with good knowledge of the WPC bus that may be interested enough to fix the problems.
 
I've got some time off at Christmas so I'm going to get mine working, just need to sort the ground out.
 
Looking at the PCB and the chips on it, I have no idea why the design has surface mount chips on it. He could of done the whole thing with thru hole components. That would save a lot of people who arent accurate at soldering from making mistakes. I can do this stuff, I do not like it! But I can imagine a lot of pinball people couldnt. I also find it a bit strange he doesnt make a 'ready made' one that is plug in and play.
 
This was going to be the next thing after putting Star Wars back together. Seems like I should hold on a bit. Or buy a kit, assemble it and do some debugging. But like someone else has mentioned why add the other features when the basic operation isn’t quite working yet. Is it one guy designing this or is it a group.
In the meantime I’ve ordered a PIN2DMD in the group buy. I hope that all comes together ok.
 
Taken from the German forum....

Does anyone know if Steve is on vacation or is he okay? I have been waiting for my license for 6 weeks and parts for 10 weeks. No reaction to PN and email.: Confused:

He has a new job that is eating him up right now. In addition, he had to give up his company laptop and the private is gone. At the moment there is almost nothing outside of work. Maybe he finds peace and time over the holidays.
 
Taken from the German forum....

Find it a little strange that someone does not have there own laptop or even a home PC to work from. Or at least fill people in.

His site is still up that you can SEND MONEY to for a board that does not work.

Not good practice. A post on pinside would satisfy most saying 'this project is currently on hold for x months' even....

£300 for a pinsound board seems to be the best option.
 
I bought a Pinsound in the end, best thing I ever done, everything works when it should even the volume controls inside the coin door.
 
I think he should hand it over to someone else or get someone else involved if he cannot commit particularly if you can still send money, it would be a shame to shut it down as it is such a good project. He has the PCB on easyeda.com open to public download so they are easy to modify and to get manufactured.
 
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