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Complete Scared Stiff ... My first playfield swap

A braver man than me and I’ve been shopping pins well over 30yr now!
My limit is to fully strip the top and then the main mechs, pops, flippers assys etc.
I’ll wait till it’s all finished and then transfer the 5k It’s worth tops according to @Neil McRae.
 
you had it easy my friend. wait till you have to do a playfield with 6 or more star rollovers that are full of clear.

God no.

TBH I got a lot of respect for people that are doing this for a living. It's VERY time consuming and not all friendly.
 
Most tnuts now installed.

Had to counter sunk some more screws.

Ran out of tnuts and my order is late (bloody royal mail) so I tried to pull some existing ones but the teeth aren't as sharp so I'll wait. Hopefully my order arrives tomorrow.
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@stumblor and @Pick Holder

Need some sanity checking here.

Does it matter which wire you solder to which leg of the bulb within the pop bumper?

I made sure to keep the wire pairs together but my lables came loose in the move...

Also if someone could check over my pop coil wires as well would be appreciated.

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Will cut the legs back once I'm happy the wiring is good btw
 
Ok from what I can see it's just going to switch the polarity so I'll need to switch the LED to suit. Phew!

2 harnesses installed today and all roll over switches, lamp holders and coils securely fitted.

One more wire harness to go and just need to re-assemble the flipper mechs.

Then it's ready to go back into the cab and onto playfield assembly.
 
Anyone know what part number this tnut is?

It fits a 8/32 screw but is a lot smaller than a regular tnut
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Have you compared to the original pf or photos?
Is it because you need more of that type?
 
Have you compared to the original pf or photos?
Is it because you need more of that type?


Ants sorted me out.

Needed half diameter versions of the ones I had go figure...

Means I can't complete for tomorrow despite all my efforts
 
OK not going to lie, pretty dissapointed.

Spent the entire week and I've hit a hard stop due to missing FOUR TNUT with a half inch diameter... I could pull them from the old playfield but they are top side and I don't want to wreck the playfield art.

I've been working 12 - 14 hour days Since last Saturday with a view of trying to complete this all by this Sunday.

I would have probably made it too.. All well thats a weeks holiday burnt up ><


Spent a lot of time getting the top side T-NUTS in (the ones I could at any rate) used a G Glamp with rubber sponges to stop it leaving massive indentations in the playfield!

I could only get them so far.

Word of advice to anyone thinking of doing a swap.

One: Don't

Two: If you have to, do the T-NUTS FIRST!

These are the little buggers I need to get

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Also spent a lot of time trying to get this bloody round posts off. I removed the nut and washer below but they were practically rusted in there. I had to use vice grips and pliers to remove them. Took many hours.

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Finally got everything off the old playfield

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Decided to burn some time by polishing some of the metals:

Before:

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After:

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All three looms now on the playfield again, all bulb sockets, wire holders, coils (except for the Chest), and lamp PCB's, TNUTs the lot. All underside complete.

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I thought it might be that other t nut type. I have a map of all the t nuts on Diner and there's a third type I can't seem to find anywhere.
 
Bloody playfield had no holes on the top side at all for the wire guides.

Had to trace the old holes and then stressfully drill 8 new holes into the playfield.

I only have a 2.0 or 2.5mm drill bit and the wire guides measure 2.3mm

Ordered some more bits in 2.1, 2.2 and 2.3mm.

I'll need to test fit each time untill I feel like I'm happy it will fit.

Real pita and it's slowing down the finish of this machine considerably.

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My new CPR FT only has a number on it like yours, pretty sure it’s going to need all the holes drilled out at least. Like it’s not hard enough!
Good luck with it.
 
Switched my attention to the cab while I wait for different sized drill bits to arrive.

***** PSA *****

DO NOT INSTALL PLASTIC LEG PROTECTORS ON VINYL DECALS

This is what happens when you do.

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You need to use metal protectors and ideally cut around them to allow the decal to breath a bit like a wood floor.

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To reduce the major lifting and bubbling here I used a heat gun. Much of the rippling has been there for years so unfortunately I can only reduce so much.

Eventually I'll need to replace the cab art if I want a true super mint. For now my repair undid some damage.

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Drill bits arrived. Needed a 2.4mm drill bit in the end. This measured 2.1mm according to my digital caliper. The same size as the metal leg of the wire form.

Had one small chip around the hole, due to the tension of one of the legs going in.

Man never want to do this again.

More amazed my tracing got the holes bang on.

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