OP
OP
OK i'll have a look when I get back tonight if not tomorrow.
Pinball info
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Bram Stokers Dracula - The now sorta shop log.
- Thread starter s000m
- Start date
OP
OP
Sorry for the delay on this.No rush take your time, thanks
The large left one (on the right in the pic) I have here is old and I can give for free if you can cover postage.
The other stuff is new we can discuss pricing just PM me.
I also have a ton of reverse stickers for ramps etc.
See below :
OP
OP
Translite and custom topper are delayed due to printing issues at Retro Refurb.
Matt however has been making excellent progress with most of the playfield parts transferred over to the new playfield.
He hit a few issues with some mounting holes not lining up as well as an opto wire which was literally hanging on by a thread!
Some cold solder joints also but other than that its nearly done!
Matt however has been making excellent progress with most of the playfield parts transferred over to the new playfield.
He hit a few issues with some mounting holes not lining up as well as an opto wire which was literally hanging on by a thread!
Some cold solder joints also but other than that its nearly done!
D
Deleted member 5505
Do you know if this is this still the case mate? Ordered a few days ago. Cheers
OP
OP
D
Deleted member 5505
When I ordered from them last year, I had the same problem. Printer was down, sorry for the delay. It took ages.
OP
OP
Hey all,
So the playfield swap is done but I have an issue with the right opto for the rat VUK.
It keeps firing on start up.
I got out the MM and tested the opto's.
On the receiver (black holder) registered 13.7v when unblocked and 0.17v when blocked.
However when I block the sensor on switch edge test nothing happens.
If I take the opto's off still attached to their wiring harness and plug them into the left side vuk. They work fine. So it doesn't appear to be a wiring issue on the opto's.
Any suggestions?
So the playfield swap is done but I have an issue with the right opto for the rat VUK.
It keeps firing on start up.
I got out the MM and tested the opto's.
On the receiver (black holder) registered 13.7v when unblocked and 0.17v when blocked.
However when I block the sensor on switch edge test nothing happens.
If I take the opto's off still attached to their wiring harness and plug them into the left side vuk. They work fine. So it doesn't appear to be a wiring issue on the opto's.
Any suggestions?
OP
OP
Ok it may be the opto board, castle pop opto also doesn't work... It's a brand new homepin opto board ..
Scratch that I tried my old opto board and the same issue. Old board was fine (replaced as part of the new fit out)
Scratch that I tried my old opto board and the same issue. Old board was fine (replaced as part of the new fit out)
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I would go over the IDC connectors with the tool and push the cables in. One could of come out slightly whilst doing a PF change. That happens! A lot!
Also could be a wire off another switch - look to see if the other switch that is duff is on the same column or row bud.
Also could be a wire off another switch - look to see if the other switch that is duff is on the same column or row bud.
OP
OP
Cool will check it over tomorrow.
Are we having a colouring in party 
Did you do it yourself in the end or did you get Mr A to do it?
Did you do it yourself in the end or did you get Mr A to do it?
OP
OP
Mr AAre we having a colouring in party
Did you do it yourself in the end or did you get Mr A to do it?
Unfortunately he was under time pressure to complete so I said I would resolve the remaining issues.
I'm sure I'll figure it out eventually. I'm pretty certain you are right it's likely the IDC connectors on the MPU board.
Will resolve hopefully tomorrow.
OP
OP
Finally resolved many thanks to @Ant-H (who may regret letting me know his number) for the advice and bouncing back of theories and suggestions.
I noticed a loose looped wire with teeth marks in it.
Noticed pin 12 on the PCB opto board was empty.
The wire was white brown. Manual said pin 12 should have white green but had this wire listed twice once on pin 8 and again on pin 12.
It must have been a typo as hooking the white brown back into pin 12 resolved the issue!
Scott
I noticed a loose looped wire with teeth marks in it.
Noticed pin 12 on the PCB opto board was empty.
The wire was white brown. Manual said pin 12 should have white green but had this wire listed twice once on pin 8 and again on pin 12.
It must have been a typo as hooking the white brown back into pin 12 resolved the issue!
Scott
OP
OP
Hey mate,
Retro refurbs printer is still out of action. Due to the global parts shortage they have no ETA on resolution.
I've got a refund off them and i'm using someone else now for all the custom speaker panel, back glass and topper work.
Its going to be close for pinfest at this rate...
D
Deleted member 5505
Thanks mate, I'll drop them a note
OP
OP
Some delays to the machine.
I'm not happy with how the glows turned out and will be swapping them for Titan reds. The issue now is shipping delays...
Once these arrive I need to strip back the playfield and re-do the rubbers.
I'm also waiting on:
Custom Backglass (thats right, not translite but actual backglass!)
Custom Speaker Panel
New artwork for the topper
The machine is up and some may have seen an early shot of it on Matt's YT channel but its not the final product. I'll post as soon as its in the vision I've set out in my head
The good news is that it will all be ready for Pinfest.
Scott
I'm not happy with how the glows turned out and will be swapping them for Titan reds. The issue now is shipping delays...
Once these arrive I need to strip back the playfield and re-do the rubbers.
I'm also waiting on:
Custom Backglass (thats right, not translite but actual backglass!)
Custom Speaker Panel
New artwork for the topper
The machine is up and some may have seen an early shot of it on Matt's YT channel but its not the final product. I'll post as soon as its in the vision I've set out in my head
The good news is that it will all be ready for Pinfest.
Scott
OP
OP
So after getting the pin back from Matt. I decided to undo all his hard work and strip the playfield again to change the rubbers and put in a playfield protector ready for pinfest.
5 hours later and rubbers and protectors are in!
Just need to re-assemble everything top side now.
5 hours later and rubbers and protectors are in!
Just need to re-assemble everything top side now.
OP
OP
Ok it's 90% done.
I've got an issue with the balls escaping the castle lock and balls sometimes escaping out of the left ramp return but I'll figure it out.
It's been a long few days.
Big thanks to everyone involved in the project I'll put together a video with a proper reveal when the custom backglass and speaker panel arrives.
For now enjoy and see you at pinfest!
I've got an issue with the balls escaping the castle lock and balls sometimes escaping out of the left ramp return but I'll figure it out.
It's been a long few days.
Big thanks to everyone involved in the project I'll put together a video with a proper reveal when the custom backglass and speaker panel arrives.
For now enjoy and see you at pinfest!
Dracula gave me problems with the Castle lock early on. As with Getaway, the locking pin began to stick in the retracted (down) position, allowing more than one ball to escape at a time. I added a snap-in 'nyliner' insert to the coil bracket, but even the slight thickness of its locating edge changed the effective height of the pin. Allowing a fast-moving ball to push past, or knock through a ball already locked. I adjusted the height of the wire track to suit, as I thought it a bit extreme to take a layer of ply off the underside of the playfield to recover the loss of height, and anything added to the locking pin could end up getting detached and drifting about the playfield.
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OP
OP
It's more of a ball hop when the second ball comes in.
I know what the issue is. The custom plastics are thicker than the original plastics.
This has raised everything up. Including the wire forms.
As a result the peg is shorter.
For now I'll work it down by applying more pressure onto the nut clamping the wire form by the lock.
Long term I'll need to do a second revision of the plastics with thinner plastic.
Ever the expense this pin!
OP
OP
Right castle lock sorted and right ramp return is 9/10 there.
The playfield protector isn't helping.
It's like adding skates to the ball. It's only on for pinfest I'll rip it off after.
Two remaining issues.
Shooter lane ejects at such a speed that it's hitting metal in the air as it ejects from the lane.
Seems to be caused by the plastic ramp being slightly skewed.
If I apply pressure to the end lifting it doesn't do it.
Will provide a video shortly.
The other issue is more obvious to fix.
I need a retention clip for the right gate arm. I'm not sure if it's shot off or went missing in the playfield swap. Either way I can't find it.
Anyone know the type of hairpin to buy?
The playfield protector isn't helping.
It's like adding skates to the ball. It's only on for pinfest I'll rip it off after.
Two remaining issues.
Shooter lane ejects at such a speed that it's hitting metal in the air as it ejects from the lane.
Seems to be caused by the plastic ramp being slightly skewed.
If I apply pressure to the end lifting it doesn't do it.
Will provide a video shortly.
The other issue is more obvious to fix.
I need a retention clip for the right gate arm. I'm not sure if it's shot off or went missing in the playfield swap. Either way I can't find it.
Anyone know the type of hairpin to buy?
