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Bram Stokers Dracula - The now sorta shop log.

s000m said:
I did before but didn't find anything.

I do suspect the ramp coil for the coffin as it was making what I can only call a 'jamming' noise when trying to release the ramp.

I can successfully manipulate the mech manually so its not a physical issue that I can see.

I'm going to check the resistance but finding the part is a royal pain.

SM1-28-900-DC

In on way I want it to be the problem. In the other I don't if you know what I mean... I'll update shortly.
Click to expand...
I had a problem with the coffin ramp after fitting a cliffy; after reinstalling the arm connected to the solenoid would brush the metal ball rail just enough to stop the ramp going down, I could manually push it down with the slightest of pressure not sure if you have the same problem or not. To resolve it I just backed off the hex screws and moved it only a couple of mm, re-tighten and it was fixed.
 
Moonraker said:
Any pinball place or electronic component specialist - they're called circuit breakers.

Circuit Breakers - Temporary Fuse Replacement | 1stoppinball

Circuit Breakers - Temporary Fuse ReplacementBlown a fuse and just about to replace it with another one.If that one blows do you have another spare ?The...
www.onestoppinball.co.uk
Click to expand...
Damn, shows out of stock on 3Amp version.

sourcingmap Thermal Circuit Breakers 3A 125/250V AC 32V DC Push Button Manual Reset Overload Protector Switch 2 Pcs : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders. Shop sourcingmap Thermal Circuit Breakers 3A 125/250V AC 32V DC Push Button Manual Reset Overload Protector Switch 2 Pcs.
www.amazon.co.uk

Would this do?

scott
 
crsedgar said:
I had a problem with the coffin ramp after fitting a cliffy; after reinstalling the arm connected to the solenoid would brush the metal ball rail just enough to stop the ramp going down, I could manually push it down with the slightest of pressure not sure if you have the same problem or not. To resolve it I just backed off the hex screws and moved it only a couple of mm, re-tighten and it was fixed.
Click to expand...
When I put a new fuse in, it works lifts fine... before blowing again of course. So looks to be a red herring. Its likely a short somewhere.
 
s000m said:
@BigIan would this one do?

www.ebay.co.uk

3 Amp Thermal Circuit Breaker Reset Fuse 3A Waterproof Cap Black Button AC DC | eBay

Thermal overload circuit breaker. Push to reset. - Push to reset. Suitable for AC and DC. Supplied with splash-proof rubber cap. - Can be used in AC household situations and can also be used in DC circuits such as in campervans, marine craft and houseboats.
www.ebay.co.uk

I needed a 3AMP version. The one you linked didn't have that rating.
Click to expand...
Yes if you need 3a, i have them in 3,5 & 10 from memory, worth having a few on hand, saves on fuses in the long run
 
BigIan said:
Yes if you need 3a, i have them in 3,5 & 10 from memory, worth having a few on hand, saves on fuses in the long run
Click to expand...
Hi Ian,

The thermal circuit breakers arrived. One side is marked load, the other line. When I go to hooks this up to the fuse slot. Which side is Line and and which side is load?

PXL_20220315_173555437.jpg
 
Shouldn’t matter as fuses don’t need the current to be travelling in a certain direction but load is the current in and line is the ‘output’ (ie: down stream components)
 
Andydn said:
Shouldn’t matter as fuses don’t need the current to be travelling in a certain direction but load is the current in and line is the ‘output’ (ie: down stream components)
Click to expand...
Hmm I read that if they specify on the Circuit break load and line then you should not 'back-fed' due to where the Thermal mechanism is. There seems to be arguments which conflict I just didn't want to cause a burn out somewhere.
 
s000m said:
Hmm I read that if they specify on the Circuit break load and line then you should not 'back-fed' due to where the Thermal mechanism is. There seems to be arguments which conflict I just didn't want to cause a burn out somewhere.
Click to expand...
Definitely go with what you read then, I’m assuming they work like a normal fuse but sounds like they don’t.
 
Resolved!

Was the left slingshot coil. Either it was the orientation or the coil. I replaced it and changed the orientation to minimise risk of shorting. My god literal days wasted troubleshooting this. Now I just need to wait for my new playfield and repeat this all over. 🤣
 
s000m said:
I mean I love the mech but the sculpt needs replacing it looks as naff as the original.
Click to expand...
I had the fancy coffin mod on mine with the flickering torches, but to be honest I like Ron Jeremy just as much.
I think it would be even better if Ron popped out😂
 
Decision time.

We've built a new translite.

Red or White font?

PXL_20220330_170651107.jpg

PXL_20220330_170537567.jpg
 
White stands out too much. Red doesn't at all.
Is there a middle ground?
 
Ok I'm watching back my BSD videos just skip 1-4 and go to 5 🤣.

I'll do a condensed video when it's all done.

 
Pf are ****ing heavy I couldn’t remove / fit my es one by my self always needed a second hand hehe.
 
Andydn said:
Shouldn’t matter as fuses don’t need the current to be travelling in a certain direction but load is the current in and line is the ‘output’ (ie: down stream components)
Click to expand...
It's not. The load is what consumes the power and the line is the power in.
 
They must vary a lot. I pulled Diners in and out on my own. I see bsd has a lot more metal under it compared to Diner though.
 
Well it feels like an eternity but the playfield has been received by my guy in Australia and is being prepped this weekend for shipment. I just need to organise the courier for collection and it will be on its way.

The final piece to my revamp is nearly complete!

Also Gonzo has been slacking majorly on the videos and said the final parts 6 and 7 will be out soon. ;)

Scott
 
The custom playfield and plastics I'll hold off on until they are in and installed.

Stay tuned!
 
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