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BOP New issues - Head motor/switch error

Not here buddy, unless I'm missing something obvious?

My other games have two switches one for sound one for diagnostic, but nothing on bop

IT looks like I dont have batteries, I do, but they are external from the board, cables ran from the back of the board.
 

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Ive had a good look at the caps and the back of the board, there seems to be no blown caps and no dodgey traces
 
Vimtoman said:
Is R29 the same value?

As for the speaker wiring You should ask someone with a BOP to compare
Click to expand...


R29 : 68.5 - tested on ohms 200
R32: 1.063 (one above fire) tested on ohms 2k
R33 : 23.2 (fire damaged) tested on ohms 200

So looking at it, as r29 and r33 are the same resistor, r33 is infact not performing, so I need to change that.

Is testing q24 the same principle on ohms? There is three prongs going into the machine from that, can the game still be off? And what probe where? I've tried black on left and red on right - nothing ohms 200, red and black reversed same nothingness
 
cr5000462 said:
R29 : 68.5 - tested on ohms 200
R32: 1.063 (one above fire) tested on ohms 2k
R33 : 23.2 (fire damaged) tested on ohms 200

So looking at it, as r29 and r33 are the same resistor, r33 is infact not performing, so I need to change that.

Is testing q24 the same principle on ohms? There is three prongs going into the machine from that, can the game still be off? And what probe where? I've tried black on left and red on right - nothing ohms 200, red and black reversed same nothingness
Click to expand...

Yes, the manual list R33 as 68 ohms.

No test Q24 using the diode setting. Yes leave the game switch off.

Read here about how to test and rectfying the rest of your issues.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Transistor_.22Quick_Check.22
 
Very helpful link, thank you!

im buying a new head switch from pinballmania - Can find the switch but unsure of which diode I need,

My head chase lights have decided to give up today, hopefully its something to do with that R33 when I buy a new one
 
cr5000462 said:
R29 : 68.5 - tested on ohms 200
R32: 1.063 (one above fire) tested on ohms 2k
R33 : 23.2 (fire damaged) tested on ohms 200

So looking at it, as r29 and r33 are the same resistor, r33 is infact not performing, so I need to change that.

Is testing q24 the same principle on ohms? There is three prongs going into the machine from that, can the game still be off? And what probe where? I've tried black on left and red on right - nothing ohms 200, red and black reversed same nothingness
Click to expand...

R32 may not test correctly as across the base/emitter of Q24.
It's 2k resisitor so 1k ish is probably Ok.
Test R28 and you should have the same value. If so then its ok.

looks like R33 is duff.

I would be really careful if your changing these as you can make a mess of the pcb.
Should you do so then cut the component legs close to the body and heat up with some solder and pull off legs when hot.
Dont leave the soldering iron on for too long as you could heat the tracking to the point of it lifting off.

If your not confident with soldering then dont do it.
 
Thank you Everyone, I am having a few days off and will tackle it again when my switch arrives,
Hoping to get the chase lights working again, cant be anything massive as it was working one night, woke up the day after, and not working again :hmm:

Hoping the switch gets the head calibrating, and then I will try and find what resistor I need to buy to get that on the board,
 
Something off topic here a little bit, but I want to do it with BOP so mayswell ask here without starting a new thread!

I want to add some nice led green strip lights to the underside of the cabinet on Congo (will be doing the same to bop)
the strip light is 12v, so... Can I just tap straight into a 12v wire and hook up the lights? Even better If I can find an empty 12V socket on the board and then can use a correct IDC connector straight into the board?
https://www.led-lighthouse.co.uk/le...een-led-strip-lights-splashproof-60-led-m-12v
 
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