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BOP New issues - Head motor/switch error

The wire was literally snapped in two,


I pulled the motor from the game and ran it on a 12v batt , motor works perfectly.

I have had a look at the relay board closely, there doesn't seem to be any dry joints, I ran my iron over them aswell just incase.

How would I test the continuity of a wire from one end of the wire to another to see if there is any snapped cables there?

Thank you for your help today, I too am very stumped!
 
to test wire : put your meter on lowest ohms setting. connect to either end of wire. should register 0 ohms or maybe a few ohms depending on how well you make contact with the wire


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I think you need to get the relay board working in stand alone mode.

So motor connected and 12vdc connected to input of that board.

All it does is transfer 12vdc and gnd to the motor.

When switched reverses that connection to the motor. Which turns it the other way.
 
Thank you folks,
What would be really helpful is if anyone owns a BOP, could you please take some photos of the connections on the board? I think maybe my wires are mixed up somewhere
 
I believe it to be switch 67, that shows if it's on the human head or not,
The switch never registered as closed.

I shall buy a new switch

Next up, I have no lower GI, and no sound
 
Feel like I'm getting somewhere now,
Thank you everyone! Hope to get this bop beautiful, I've got new ramps etc ready to go and on the lookout for a playfield
 
Two snapped wires coming out the speakers, and the same coloured ones that go into the cab.
And looks like I'm missing wires on the sound board too.

Anyone know what fuse it would be for the lower GI ?
 
I dont have a full schematic but in the online manual chart pg 2-42 it says J120-11 Q12 transistor for front GI.

Always check fuses when no power is applied.
Plus lift one end of the fuse off the pcb holder and check continuity with meter.
 
Thank you,
I've cut then researched that cable lower GI now works :) your a living legend

I've pulled and replaced the fuses with brand new ones.

Sound next then ready to go
 
Fire!!!!
Just closed the speaker panel back to the backboard and a stray wire (one from the speakers) touched the back of the speaker.

R33 set on fire! Turned game off quickly but it's smoked :(
 

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Ok not a major.
Hows your soldering skills?

You may have to change the large trasistor also,posssibly the small one.
You can test them with the diode check on your meter.

Anode cathode test from
emitter to base
Base to collector.

Maybe look up online on how to do this as it would be ten threads worth guiding you :)
 
I am okay with soldering, I've done some board work before, changed a few resistors on other games and the big bridge on this one.

Game still actually works oddly
 
Measure the resistor and see if it's close to the value it should be.
You may have got away with it. It may be a % out due to cooking.
If close then leave it in.

Also look up the transitor Q? located next to it on the chart in the manual and check that output is working ok.
 
Thank you,
If I am correct (probably not) resistor is to be tested with the game off, and its on ohms?

Also, whilst I remember, Any pics of your TOM vimto?
 
Game off
R33 (the fire one) 22.7
R32 above the fire - I can't seem to get any reading at all from it
 

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Onto the speakers.
Seems I'm missing wires and some have been cut.

I have a grey/yellow and a black coming from the cab no connectors on the end.

I also have a grey/yellow and a black coming from the speaker panel again with no connectors on them.

J504 and j505 on the sound board have connectors in them but no wires.


Looking at the schematics below
it says J504-2 should be the grey/yellow wire going to the cabinet
and J505 - 3 should be going black going to the backbox speakers

Which leaves me with one grey/yellow and one black doing nothing?
 

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Last edited:
The back box speakers are wired in series with the cab speaker. The black lead from the cab speaker is connected to J504 pin 3. The black-yellow lead from the cab speaker is connected to the black lead from the back box speakers via an in-line connector. The black-yellow wire from the back box speakers is connected to sound board connector J505 pin 2.
 
Thanks folks

I don't have any inline connectors so I've just connected the grey yellow from the cab to the black from backbox speaker.

Ran black from cab straight into connector on j504-

And the grey yellow from speaker into connector j505-2

Speakers now giving off a weird faint buzz and a hiss for a few seconds when in test

I've tried new data cable from speaker into the board with no change
 
Vimtoman said:
Is R29 the same value?

As for the speaker wiring You should ask someone with a BOP to compare
Click to expand...
I have possibly made a typing error, I have given up for the day, I will recheck tomorrow and report back,
I owe you all some beers!
 
Possibly the sound roms have gone? Is there a way to actually test them out the game? Stupid question.

Or know where I can buy new?
 
I would check connections to the sound board before looking at the most complicated problems.

Flexi cables the correct way round ....

You shorted a speaker cable on the driver board.

Maybe you have blown a fuse somewhere or damaged one of the amps etc.

Just looked on the manual and it shows two fuses. F502 F501 3A. Check those
 
Thanks all, I will try them :)

As promised I am going to donate £50 to the forum for everyones help so far. I will be doing that tonight.

I also promised everyone a beer that has helped so far, which equates to roughly £25. If you want a beer save it for when we meet, if not I'll donate that £25 to a charity or anyone that might be on a just giving fundraiser for the forum. (I'll buy you all beers when we meet regardless!)

Thank you once again all for the help so far! The journey is not yet complete, but we are getting closer
 
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