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Expired Romans/PDI Glass (Standard, Wide Body & Safecracker Sizes)
- Thread starter aaronhicksuk
- Start date
Expired Due to no activity
Does anyone have any cleaning tips for this stuff?
I was told you're not supposed to use standard glass cleaner, which is unfortunate as it needs cleaning pretty regularly, it shows up every fingerprint.
I was told you're not supposed to use standard glass cleaner, which is unfortunate as it needs cleaning pretty regularly, it shows up every fingerprint.
OP
OP
I've added 3 sheets of standard on to my list for you. Luton is a bit of a mission but I'm sure something can be worked out delivery wise.
I think I've read that its safe to use Isopropyl alcohol to clean the glass but I'll ask Roman for his advice the next time I contact him.
Ok thanks, now I've looked at again at Martin's article he says you can use isopropyl alcohol. Could you possibly ask Roman or does anyone know if there's any way to remove scratches? I have some minor ones caused by airballs I think.
I'm getting tempted to get a couple more sheets of standard size, but without knowing the dates of the pinball party it could be NLP in October before I could collect, would that be a problem?
OP
OP
@Safe cracker boy! , Roman has replied back to me regarding the Safe Cracker Size glass. He said that he doesn't stock it due to low demand but he would be happy to ship it separately due to its size so your're in luck! He hasn't mentioned the cost of delivery but I'll find out and let you know.
PB2K glass isn't ready yet but will be work out somewhere around the 200EUR mark when it is. He also suggested I spread this video around which shows the difference between his glass and JJPs Invisiglass
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXHANDYS9Wk
I'll forward your questions regarding cleaning and minor scratch repair on to Roman and let you know. I don't have problem with holding on to a couple of sheets to the NLP for you if you want, it may be possible to get some sheets closer for you if someone else is travelling and doesn't mind.
PB2K glass isn't ready yet but will be work out somewhere around the 200EUR mark when it is. He also suggested I spread this video around which shows the difference between his glass and JJPs Invisiglass
I'll forward your questions regarding cleaning and minor scratch repair on to Roman and let you know. I don't have problem with holding on to a couple of sheets to the NLP for you if you want, it may be possible to get some sheets closer for you if someone else is travelling and doesn't mind.
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2012
- Messages
- 547
That's fantastic news!!! Thank you so much for everything your doing for us 
So just to clarify I will take.
X3 widebody
X1 safe cracker
X1 standard
Once again thank you!
Dominic
So just to clarify I will take.
X3 widebody
X1 safe cracker
X1 standard
Once again thank you!
Dominic
There's a hell of a lot of money being spent on glass.
Agreed, the North Hampshire and Surrey Borders, Gold Ball Owners Club blew this years budget on the fish paper group buy
I'd suggest buy lower wattage ceiling bulbs which has a similar effect.
invisible glass is this month's fishpaper
It IS pretty freakin' awesome though. Got a sheet last year for my TOM and it really does make a difference.
Plus, once you run out of space the only thing left to do is pimp them up a bit with colorDMDs and invisiglass
OP
OP
It is expensive but worth it IMO. Even with dim ambient lighting I think there is room for improvement and it will make a difference that other MacGyver fixes won't. As RGV said once you run out of space the only thing left to do to pins is pimp them up a bit. On the whole most mods don't float my boat, I tend to like upgrades that enhance what is already there but don't add things that shouldn't be unless its an obvious omission. Bolting on expensive plastic Robbie Robots and the like just look tacky IMO and don't seem to serve much purpose other than blocking your view of the ball! The only real exception to this rule in my collection is the lit T1000 from @Judge Dreads.
Some of my pins I don't ever intend to sell like TZ for example. Its typically one of the most heavily modified machines going and also IMO the greatest pinball ever made, and ever likely to be made (there just isn't the money in pinball that there was back in 1993 so no designer will be let loose like Lawlor was then.) I have a lovely example with original unfaded cabinet, really nice original playfield etc. Mods wise it has upgraded Pinball Pro speakers, reinforced clock and slot targets, reinforced slot machine weldment, cliffys all round, the missing flashers under the door, lit gumball machine with coloured gumballs and tastefully done LED lighting. (No coloured lamps under white inserts or themed GI for me, just nice bright original coloured inserts and white GI.) To me anti-reflective glass is one of the only ways left to improve it further and show off the beauty that lies beneath. People spend £300+ on Colour DMDs that you hardly ever look at because they're cool (myself included,) when 99% of the time you are looking through the playfield glass. When I consider it this way the glass starts to look good value for money!
I'm going to keep the scratch free sheets of standard glass and put them back in any pins I decide to sell in the future, allowing me to rotate the PDI in to whatever takes its place. So its a bit of an investment in improving pinball pleasure for many years to come.
Slight tangent but anybody who hasn't seen or tried the Optix Maximus GI lamps from Comet Pinball, I recommend you check them out, even if you aren't normally a fan of LEDs. http://www.cometpinball.com/category-s/1836.htm The sunlight ones in particular look incredible. I've tried a lot of different lamps and their claims of being the best GI lamp period are well founded, the photos just don't do them justice at all. Lovely and bright without hurting your eyes, lovely colour and most importantly awesome dispersion. They allow you to see the ball perfectly when playing in the dark and bring out the colours of the artwork instead of turning everything orange like incandescents do or harsh clinical white like most LEDs.
Some of my pins I don't ever intend to sell like TZ for example. Its typically one of the most heavily modified machines going and also IMO the greatest pinball ever made, and ever likely to be made (there just isn't the money in pinball that there was back in 1993 so no designer will be let loose like Lawlor was then.) I have a lovely example with original unfaded cabinet, really nice original playfield etc. Mods wise it has upgraded Pinball Pro speakers, reinforced clock and slot targets, reinforced slot machine weldment, cliffys all round, the missing flashers under the door, lit gumball machine with coloured gumballs and tastefully done LED lighting. (No coloured lamps under white inserts or themed GI for me, just nice bright original coloured inserts and white GI.) To me anti-reflective glass is one of the only ways left to improve it further and show off the beauty that lies beneath. People spend £300+ on Colour DMDs that you hardly ever look at because they're cool (myself included,) when 99% of the time you are looking through the playfield glass. When I consider it this way the glass starts to look good value for money!
I'm going to keep the scratch free sheets of standard glass and put them back in any pins I decide to sell in the future, allowing me to rotate the PDI in to whatever takes its place. So its a bit of an investment in improving pinball pleasure for many years to come.
Slight tangent but anybody who hasn't seen or tried the Optix Maximus GI lamps from Comet Pinball, I recommend you check them out, even if you aren't normally a fan of LEDs. http://www.cometpinball.com/category-s/1836.htm The sunlight ones in particular look incredible. I've tried a lot of different lamps and their claims of being the best GI lamp period are well founded, the photos just don't do them justice at all. Lovely and bright without hurting your eyes, lovely colour and most importantly awesome dispersion. They allow you to see the ball perfectly when playing in the dark and bring out the colours of the artwork instead of turning everything orange like incandescents do or harsh clinical white like most LEDs.
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can you put me down for a widebody piece please (to fit TZ)
I've got a standard size one already and it does ruin normal glass!
If there is someone from West London/Oxford collecting please let me know so i can try to tag along on the collection! I'm in Aylesbury/High Wycombe.
Cheers
Rich
I've got a standard size one already and it does ruin normal glass!
If there is someone from West London/Oxford collecting please let me know so i can try to tag along on the collection! I'm in Aylesbury/High Wycombe.
Cheers
Rich
OP
OP
@Safe cracker boy!, just heard back from Roman about postage on the SC size glass. He said shipping and packaging will be about 40 Euros. We can work things out nearer the time but this would probably be best shipped directly to you. I take it you 100% want it, if so I'll ask if he can get it ordered up now so you have less time to wait?
@mark9, Romans words on glass cleaning/scratches:
You can clean the glass with regular (non aggressive) glass cleaners, isopropyl alcohol or warm water with liquid soap (fairy or similar). Scratches are not caused by air balls. You might see very minor spots but no scratches.
In the following video I've used a hammer to shatter the glass (it was faulty) and to show how it behaves in different stress situations. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPmG1lG6exs
Anyway…there is no way to repair a scratch in the coating.
And a general note:
Please make sure that the community don't think that my glass (aka Roman glass or PDI in the US) is the same like JJPs Invisiglass. It's not and I'm criticizing Jack's attitude to misinform and mislead the potential buyer over and over...
And last but not least @elrikos, I've added you on to the list for a sheet of wide.
@mark9, Romans words on glass cleaning/scratches:
You can clean the glass with regular (non aggressive) glass cleaners, isopropyl alcohol or warm water with liquid soap (fairy or similar). Scratches are not caused by air balls. You might see very minor spots but no scratches.
In the following video I've used a hammer to shatter the glass (it was faulty) and to show how it behaves in different stress situations. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPmG1lG6exs
Anyway…there is no way to repair a scratch in the coating.
And a general note:
Please make sure that the community don't think that my glass (aka Roman glass or PDI in the US) is the same like JJPs Invisiglass. It's not and I'm criticizing Jack's attitude to misinform and mislead the potential buyer over and over...
And last but not least @elrikos, I've added you on to the list for a sheet of wide.
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2012
- Messages
- 547
Yes definitely want the safe cracker please
I think cracker will look amazing with the glass
Thank you!!
I think cracker will look amazing with the glass
Thank you!!
Of course there is the cost effective option....... Don't put any glass in
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2012
- Messages
- 547
I tried that but it's way to noisy
IMO It's something to get when you've no room for new pins and at least one keeper you want to make as good as possible
. You can always keep the original glass and swap it back in if the "keeper" becomes a seller of course so your next pin looks good from day 1.
2 standard-sized posh glasses please.
Not sure how we'll get them up to York or when I could collect, but let's worry about that later
Not sure how we'll get them up to York or when I could collect, but let's worry about that later
@Wiredworm I will most likely be collecting from the NLP in October and bringing back to Lincoln if you can wait that long...
Thanks for the offer Mark but it's probably best if I sit this one out.
The R&B restore is starting to kick into gear and I know for a fact i'm going to have to invest some cash in various bits and pieces over the next few weeks. Spending another £100 on a sheet of glass probably isn't top of my priority list right now.
Hopefully I can look into it once the machine is all back together and the rest of the work is done.
The R&B restore is starting to kick into gear and I know for a fact i'm going to have to invest some cash in various bits and pieces over the next few weeks. Spending another £100 on a sheet of glass probably isn't top of my priority list right now.
Hopefully I can look into it once the machine is all back together and the rest of the work is done.
£100 is wishful thinking , paid about £150 for my last ones, but the euro is more favourable now so maybe we might get lucky....
, paid about £150 for my last ones, but the euro is more favourable now so maybe we might get lucky....Heh, exactly my point. Either way I have other pinball-related stuff which takes my cash due to being higher priority. I've just spent another stack of cash of shop-out decals and still need to invest in the painting gear to spray the cab. Plenty of stuff to be spending money on right now it'd seem.
OP
OP
Thanks everybody who has expressed interest in the glass so far. As its a shorter week due to Easter and I'm quite busy I think I'll let this run run a little longer and place the order with Roman this weekend.
@Monkeyboypaul, I've added 2 standard size for you. @mission65 I've added 3 standard and 2 wide on for you.
@Monkeyboypaul, I've added 2 standard size for you. @mission65 I've added 3 standard and 2 wide on for you.
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pffffttttttt
Hi,
Can you stick me down for one standard sized sheet. Got a feeling it's going to be a slippery slope but I can't justify buying one for each of the machines at the moment
Thanks for sorting it all out
John
Can you stick me down for one standard sized sheet. Got a feeling it's going to be a slippery slope but I can't justify buying one for each of the machines at the moment
Thanks for sorting it all out
John
OP
OP
Sure no problem I've put you down for a standard sheet.
I'm going to go run through the whole thread again and the PMs I have received, total up the numbers and then email Roman over the order tomorrow.
Sorry, @aaronhicksuk, I don't want to derail your thread but I got curious about glass and started reading up all about toughening and tempering and anti-reflective coatings, etc., (the Pilkington website is fascinating!). One thing that came to mind is size because pinball is a US thing so everything is in inches. No problem cutting a sheet of glass to the right size in metric to match (533mm x 1092mm), but what about the thickness? Pinball glass is all 3/16" which is as close to 4.75mm as makes no difference, but all modern commercial glass I looked at was either 4mm or 6mm.
Do you know if Roman's glass is 4mm or has it been made specially to be exactly 3/16"? I'm assuming it won't be 6mm as unlikely to fit in the slots and would be rather heavy. I just have a vague recollection of reading something about modern glass being slightly thinner and occasionally rattling in the slots...
Do you know if Roman's glass is 4mm or has it been made specially to be exactly 3/16"? I'm assuming it won't be 6mm as unlikely to fit in the slots and would be rather heavy. I just have a vague recollection of reading something about modern glass being slightly thinner and occasionally rattling in the slots...
