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Complete Lethal Weapon 3

Assuming you've already done everything mentioned above (eg re-pin and fuse holder checks, etc)...

Try looking at the flipper driver board. They're normally mounted in the bottom left of the cabinet under the playfield on DE machines... Re-seat connectors, then when that doesn't work, reflow, check the IC legs are good (they're not if black or rusted), check the transistors on it (may well be one of these failing under load). See page 2 of the manual (6 of 93 on the IPDB pdf for the location and page 64 [87 & 88 of the pdf] for the circuit diagram).
 
Used a fibreglass pencil to clean all the header pins, soldered in new fuse holders, soldered new diodes on the flipper coils, banged on the playfield in case it was vibration causing a wire to short somewhere, all to no avail.

However, I started pulling wires out of the ppb in blind hope and found that when J6 was removed the resets appear to no longer occur.

I removed the ppb board and found some hacks, also it looks like the wrong resistor has been installed at R16 and there's a mess of hacks on the rear of the board, I wouldn't have thought a ppb could cause the mph to reset though.

IMG_20140221_213538.jpg

IMG_20140221_213516.jpg
 
Carl Spiby said:
I removed the ppb board and found some hacks, also it looks like the wrong resistor has been installed at R16 and there's a mess of hacks on the rear of the board, I wouldn't have thought a ppb could cause the mph to reset though.
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In my experience almost anything can cause a reset... :confused:
 
There was no connection between J1-15 and R14 so a put a small wire jumper in.

No change however once the board was installed back into the machine :mad:

I'm going to try a friends DE PSU and if that doesn't resolve it then I'm going to have to admit defeat and move it on :(
 
My friends PSU had a hard wire hack at CN1 so there was no way I could try it in my machine.

I ended up taking off a ground wire hack on the PSU (as a ground was already present) and I resoldered the wired on to the transistor that sits in that massive heatsink.

The result is 4.88vdc at the MPU and only one reset in about an hours of play! Now if it continues to work I can remove the playfield and take everything off it :p
 
sometimes flippers stop then outhole coil won't fire and switch matrix goes 'dicky'
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As I mentioned when I sold it, the switch matrix connectors are a bit rotted and could do with replacing entirely rather than the bodge up that's in there at the moment.

CN6 appears to supply +5v -12v and +12v does this just go to the MPU and the sound board?
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Did I put the schematics in the bottom of the cab? From memory all those voltages go to the CPU, Sound and Display boards.
Anyone got any suggestions on what to try next?
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Try unplugging the flipper board and try to get the game to reset with it unplugged. If it stops resetting I would be inspecting the connectors to that board.

EDIT: Didn't notice you got it working, well done!
 
Got a friend to remove the rusty, sheered off leg leveller and I put a nice new one in so its level now, I gapped the pops to try and make them a bit more active then set to work with Mr Sheen, it needs stripping properly at some point and I have a full set of rubbers to go on but really pleased with how its come up for now.

IMG_20140225_171649.jpg IMG_20140225_171704.jpg IMG_20140225_164501.jpg
 
Carl Spiby said:
Got a friend to remove the rusty, sheered off leg leveller and I put a nice new one in so its level now, I gapped the pops to try and make them a bit more active then set to work with Mr Sheen, it needs stripping properly at some point and I have a full set of rubbers to go on but really pleased with how its come up for now.

View attachment 5695 View attachment 5696 View attachment 5697
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She,s looking sweet.
Nice job there Carl.
 
So the reset problem reared its ugly head, I've bought another PSU to try from Jamie B which is due to arrive today.

Keep an eye on the for sale forum because if this doesn't fix it I'm all out of ideas.
 
Have you looked at the flipper driver board yet? as per my post at the top of this page...??? o_O
 
Yup and yup.

Edit: I will re-check transistors if the new PSU doesn't resolve anything because the continuity check on my DMM went bad so I'm not sure I trust the readings I got now.
 
Fair enough.

Have you replaced the switch matrix connectors Sonny Jim was talking about?

Next put the game in to solenoid test and cycle through the test routine a few times and see if a particular solenoid firing causes the reset.
 
Haven't replaced connectors yet but I removed all the connectors from the MPU to avoid any chance of back current leaving only the flippers active - it reset the instant the flipper was pressed.

I used an oscilloscope to monitor ripple whilst I played the machine, you can see some pretty severe ripple when solenoids fire and even the GI relay.

 
Check continunity on the flipper coil in case it's died on you (shorted). Then try replacing the coil diodes on the flipper.
 
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I've replaced the diodes and made sure they were the correct way around, if the coil was shorted, wouldn't it not work?
 
How much is it for a brand new board ?
If it will fix all your problems then surely it will be worth it ?
 
This is turning into a right soap opera :(

Its a lot better but its still resetting :mad:

5.5ohm and 3.8ohm are my flipper coil resistances (right and left respectively).

Transistors on flipper pcb measure (using diode setting) as follows:

Q5 - 970/970
Q7 - 954/945
Q11 - 964/972
Q4 - 968/975
Q12 - 956/945
Q6 - 952/941
Q8 - 867/879
Q1 - 859/870
Q2 - 580/657
Q9 - 589/678
Q3 - 579/596
Q10 - 587/597

Nothing looks amiss to me with those readings.
 
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I would do nothing else until you have replaced the 3x4 AC connector onto the board and the connector that carries the 5v onto the CPU.
 
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