Hi Rudi - all the metal work has been seriously blasted on the grinder with a poly wheel on but the pitting is so deep it would have to be filled - ie copper plate it first then flow solder into it then zinc it but that is way to time consuming and costly!!!From what I've read before you get an even better finish if u blast it on a polishing wheel before plating. Like the pitting on the opto plate blast on the scotchbrite wheel then a quick Polish ud get a well good finish with your playing. Still awesome results your getting might do it myself on my next project
Thanks Dan - the chemicals in the kit have done everything so far and will do a hell of a lot more then there's enough chemicals with the kit to make another complete set so guess it will last for a good while. It claims it will plate 34000 sq cms !!!All this metalwork that you turn from rusty to shiny, that's your acid bath followed by your home zinc plate bath? It's seriously impressive, does it have a cost, a price in renewable ingredients etc?
Hi Rudi - all the metal work has been seriously blasted on the grinder with a poly wheel on but the pitting is so deep it would have to be filled - ie copper plate it first then flow solder into it then zinc it but that is way to time consuming and costly!!!
Cheers Kev
Nah mate serious buffed on the poly wheel quickest way to get rust off then acid dipped before plating. Results on good metal is fantastic!!!Oh right I didn't realise I thought u had just acid dipped em
fumes aren't bad at all just keep a window open and away from naked flames as you do get a bit of hydrogen emitted. I put it in the degreaser for 5 mins in the acid pickle until it stops bubbling then in the plating bath which varies from a couple of mins to an hour dependent on the size or numbers of bits you are doing at once. Then it goes into a weak HNO3(Nitric acid) bath for 10 secs and finally in the passivate for 30 secs (be it blue or yellow passivate).Kev, what does the kit need in terms of ventilaition and how long do you leave things in the various stages? I don't have a garage so would have to do this in the kitchen....just wondering if that's safe if there are fumes etc
It's all in the instructions with the kit
Shout if you need any help - might try and do a video on a small part if anyone wants to see it from start to end result.
Here is a link to the kit from earlier in the threadI'd love to see that, as well as know which kit you got, and from where. I've got a few machines here w/some rusty fixtures on them that could use a plating like that.
Your results look AWESOME. /me is totally jealous
Will do one next time I do some plating then dan and show you how it is all done. Should be sometime next week.deinitely want to see the video Kev - include the buffing bit as well if you can
hahaha!!!!! watch this space!!!Loving what your doing on this so far Kev quality work ..
id also like to see that metal witchcraft your doing. I'm even thinking about buying the kit and i haven't even got a project pin to use it on
But in all fairness i know for SURE i don't want to watch you buffing your thing first.. Jesus !!
Howdy Kev.Hi Rudi - all the metal work has been seriously blasted on the grinder with a poly wheel on but the pitting is so deep it would have to be filled - ie copper plate it first then flow solder into it then zinc it but that is way to time consuming and costly!!!
Cheers Kev
Hi andrew,Howdy Kev.
What would they come out like if they were shotblasted ? Do you think it would be a better finish than using the poly wheel ?
The shotblaster at work is about the only thing that survived the Christmas flood and I like the look of the stuff that you have plated.
Yeah I noticed that and thought it was odd that it only had one on - so guess it it came out of factory like that ??Hi, Kev,
The coil for the upper flipper is missing a diode as well, though it's not essential on the Fliptronic II system (Getaway & later).
Yeah I noticed that and thought it was odd that it only had one on - so guess it it came out of factory like that ??
Cheers Kev