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GnR Troubleshooting - No balls / Plunger Idly firing

thejefu

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Joined
Feb 13, 2020
Messages
340
Location
Glossop, Derbyshire
Alias
magicwizard
*Updating to save people reading through*

Machine boots normally. On game start, no ball is released and the plunger idly fires periodically.

Checked continuity and power (results below). Can ground all coils at the connectors and fire each successfully on J2 and J8.

On coil test, nothing on the violet ribbon is working (VUK, Release, Launch, Eject etc). Everything else working fine.

Quick question, board has a 12 pin connector but annotated them on the board 1-10 (ignoring 2 absent pins).

Manual states a wire is at 7. As per the molex it’s number 7, as per the annotation on the board it’s 6.

Which is correct?


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Never seen that before. I would go with position 7 screened onto the board.


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Popped the connector out n tried coil test with it in the other pin, nothing. Ribbon looks stock so gonna presume it was right n keep trouble shooting.

Every coil from a single power connector is hosed I think.


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So I’m getting 41v on J6 (expect 32) and 74 out on J7 (expect 50). Both power all the coils that aren’t working.

Finding it hard to get this fixed as I’m constantly unsoldering wires from the front n backs of pins and making molex connectors.

If you’re someone who solders wires to pins on circuit boards then I don’t like you.


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Shorted J8 pins to ground, had fires on 2, 4 and 7 and 10.

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Use the solenoid test and see if they fire there. Also watch the flashers and see if they're firing when the coils are suppose to. If they are then you have an issue with the relay that controls the switching between the two.
 
If you have issues that you can not solve, I am based in Birmingham and do call outs within a 2 1/2 hour drive radius from home.

Obviously it will be chargeable but if he get stuck - then you have a 2nd option.
 
Use the solenoid test and see if they fire there. Also watch the flashers and see if they're firing when the coils are suppose to. If they are then you have an issue with the relay that controls the switching between the two.

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Anything from Brn or Vio ribbon fails to fire in test. No flashers firing but do fine in the flasher test.


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Anything from Brn or Vio ribbon fails to fire in test. No flashers firing but do fine in the flasher test.


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If your flashers are working ok in the flasher test, but the coils driven from the brown +32v feed are not, then try the following:

1) check the continuity from J6 - pins 1,2 and 3 to J6 - pin 6. This is the NC side of the relay and the default position, ie the relay defaults to drive the coils. Do this with the game off.
2) check if there is +32v at J6-pins 1,2 and 3 with game on and in coil test.
 
If your flashers are working ok in the flasher test, but the coils driven from the brown +32v feed are not, then try the following:

1) check the continuity from J6 - pins 1,2 and 3 to J6 - pin 6. This is the NC side of the relay and the default position, ie the relay defaults to drive the coils. Do this with the game off.
2) check if there is +32v at J6-pins 1,2 and 3 with game on and in coil test.

1) Continuity confirmed

2) 0 power on all 3 pins


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1) Continuity confirmed

2) 0 power on all 3 pins


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Ok, so this is the issue. You need to identify where the voltage is lost, so do the following next:

1) Check voltage at power board CN3 pin 5 and CN1 pin 3
2) Check fuse on power board F6 (5A slow blow)
3) Check the input fuse for the 32v generation, which is an 8A slow blow and screwed onto the backbox connected to the rectifier BR2 (orange wires on the output of it, red/white wires on the input of it)
 
Ok, so this is the issue. You need to identify where the voltage is lost, so do the following next:

1) Check voltage at power board CN3 pin 5 and CN1 pin 3
2) Check fuse on power board F6 (5A slow blow)
3) Check the input fuse for the 32v generation, which is an 8A slow blow and screwed onto the backbox connected to the rectifier BR2 (orange wires on the output of it, red/white wires on the input of it)

1. CN3 Pin 5 41v, CN1 Pin 3 41v

2. Good

3. Good (if you meant the two fuses below BR1 and BR2)


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I’m missing a whole red cable, either play field red or cabinet red....


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1. CN3 Pin 5 41v, CN1 Pin 3 41v

2. Good

3. Good (if you meant the two fuses below BR1 and BR2)


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ok, so check the voltage at ppb board j6 pin6 and j6 pin7 and also the continuity from these pins to power board cn3 - pin5
 
No power, no continuity


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So there’s your problem. You need to work out why the wire connecting these pins isn’t making a contact. Header pins and connectors should be checked.
Ie the 32vdc is outputted from the power board at cn3-5 and routed to the ppb board at J6-6&7 for input and use through the ac relay

what do both of these connectors look like condition wise on your game?
 
So there’s your problem. You need to work out why the wire connecting these pins isn’t making a contact. Header pins and connectors should be checked.
Ie the 32vdc is outputted from the power board at cn3-5 and routed to the ppb board at J6-6&7 for input and use through the ac relay

what do both of these connectors look like condition wise on your game?

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Look good as far as I can tell, getting continuity in the contacts between either connector


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I’m definitely getting 41v in the contact of the connector going it J6 7


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I messed up my previous tests, so on J6 pin 6 and pin 7 I am getting 41v. I was testing the pins disconnected cos I’m an idiot. Continuity is good too.


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I get confused when people ask to check at a pin for a voltage, is that typically with nothing connected to it or in the connector destined for that pin?


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I messed up my previous tests, so on J6 pin 6 and pin 7 I am getting 41v. I was testing the pins disconnected cos I’m an idiot. Continuity is good too.


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So if what you you are saying is correct and you have the 32vdc feed (may appear higher under no load test, like you say at 41vdc) at PPB board J6 pins 6 & 7 but not J6 Pins 1,2 & 3 when the game is in coil test then you have an issue with the NC contacts on your relay.
 
Not to confuse the issue but I had a couple of dry joints on the relay on mine that caused a similar problem
 
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