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Garage Dehumidifier And Heater Suggestions
- Thread starter stoptap
- Start date
Those 3kW oil filled heaters on little castors are unbelievable. They look cheap and nasty but they don't half kick out some heat when they get going. You'll pay for it in your bills though. No idea about dehumidifiers, sorry.
These are what the guy at work was on about. Supposed to be pretty cheap to run.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Produc...=finalurl_v2&gclid=CO-Y6LqpxM4CFYVAGwodvuQIEg
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Produc...=finalurl_v2&gclid=CO-Y6LqpxM4CFYVAGwodvuQIEg
It all depends on the size of space you are using. Single garage? Double garage? Bigger still?
I use similar to this:
http://www.diy.com/departments/electric-2kw-convector-heater/1046746_BQ.prd
This would be more than ample as a dehumidifier:
http://www.diy.com/departments/blyss-10l-dehumidifier/657239_BQ.prd
I use similar to this:
http://www.diy.com/departments/electric-2kw-convector-heater/1046746_BQ.prd
This would be more than ample as a dehumidifier:
http://www.diy.com/departments/blyss-10l-dehumidifier/657239_BQ.prd
I like storage heaters, dirt cheap used ones on ebay all the time. If you get one that is 3kw or below, it can run off a timer switch connected to a 13a socket. Respray it with radiator paint so it will look fresh.
The dehumidifier will also provide some heat the room ! If it is a 200 w one for example that used energy will end up as heat in the garage. - this is the same power as that pipe heater. If you get one, make sure it has the option of hose drainage. Dehumidifiers can fill their internal tanks within hours, then they stop working as a float valve kills the power. You then have to remove the tank and throw the water away. It only takes seconds to empty the internal tank, but frequency depends on how well you insulate the garage, and how much heat you put in. I have a sink in my workshop, so I have a hose pipe going into that from my dehumidifier
Of course in winter the drainage hose can freeze if just pushed outside !!!!!!. So you could put a bigger bore pipe out of a hole in the wall with a vertical drop (which is what a sink would use)
The whole thing is a voodoo nightmare.
Best bet is to get your insulation right. It is hot air hitting a cold surface that causes the trouble in the first place Doors can have foam insulation applied - glue it onto the inside of steel doors using sticks like sh1t or similar. Draught excluders. Perhaps 50mm Celotex on walls. rubber floor tiles ?
With this sort of thing I have found that NO-ONE KNOWS the answer. It is like the meaning of life. But you just use common sense, have a punt, keep fingers crossed
The dehumidifier will also provide some heat the room ! If it is a 200 w one for example that used energy will end up as heat in the garage. - this is the same power as that pipe heater. If you get one, make sure it has the option of hose drainage. Dehumidifiers can fill their internal tanks within hours, then they stop working as a float valve kills the power. You then have to remove the tank and throw the water away. It only takes seconds to empty the internal tank, but frequency depends on how well you insulate the garage, and how much heat you put in. I have a sink in my workshop, so I have a hose pipe going into that from my dehumidifier
Of course in winter the drainage hose can freeze if just pushed outside !!!!!!. So you could put a bigger bore pipe out of a hole in the wall with a vertical drop (which is what a sink would use)
The whole thing is a voodoo nightmare.
Best bet is to get your insulation right. It is hot air hitting a cold surface that causes the trouble in the first place Doors can have foam insulation applied - glue it onto the inside of steel doors using sticks like sh1t or similar. Draught excluders. Perhaps 50mm Celotex on walls. rubber floor tiles ?
With this sort of thing I have found that NO-ONE KNOWS the answer. It is like the meaning of life. But you just use common sense, have a punt, keep fingers crossed
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Problem with this is the more replies/answers you get/the more options you look at the more confusing it gets as @DRD says "NO-ONE KNOWS the answer" so basically it is suck it and see but you need insulation, heat and moisture removal (dehumidifier).
Just finishing off my cabin and I'm using 50mm kingspan (same as celotex) on the walls and 100mm on the roof. Heating not decided yet whether to go for some background heating and then dehumidifier or maybe just go for a mobile aircon unit which will keep it cool in summer but warm in winter
kingspan/celotex not cheap but worth it I think, if you need good prices give me a shout
Just finishing off my cabin and I'm using 50mm kingspan (same as celotex) on the walls and 100mm on the roof. Heating not decided yet whether to go for some background heating and then dehumidifier or maybe just go for a mobile aircon unit which will keep it cool in summer but warm in winter
kingspan/celotex not cheap but worth it I think, if you need good prices give me a shout
From my experience I'd worry more about damp than temperature. If you want a good dehumidifier recommendation this is a great one
https://www.amazon.co.uk/EcoAir-DD1...8&qid=1471342502&sr=8-6&keywords=dehumidifier
It's a dessicant type which means it works down to 1 degree (compressor types only work above 15 degrees) and when you stick one of these on full whack for a while the temperature of the room will quickly rise so you can get away without any heating for most of the year with one of these running.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/EcoAir-DD1...8&qid=1471342502&sr=8-6&keywords=dehumidifier
It's a dessicant type which means it works down to 1 degree (compressor types only work above 15 degrees) and when you stick one of these on full whack for a while the temperature of the room will quickly rise so you can get away without any heating for most of the year with one of these running.
Got a promo code from work for Machine Mart that gives 20% off. Got a 20 ltr Clarke dehumidifier for £160.
That's that sorted, now onto the insulation.
After fitting the insulation should I fit plasterboard to pretty it up ?
That's that sorted, now onto the insulation.
After fitting the insulation should I fit plasterboard to pretty it up ?
Agreed, a Desiccant model is best. I bought this one, works very well.
http://www.appliancesdirect.co.uk/p...ce=apadwords&gclid=CP77uIDWxs4CFSco0wodirMGxQ
http://www.appliancesdirect.co.uk/p...ce=apadwords&gclid=CP77uIDWxs4CFSco0wodirMGxQ
Depends. Doesn't matter what you plug in, unit price of electricity is shocking.
If you get a 3kW (3,000W) oil heater then it's most likely going to be switching on and off controlled by a thermostat to keep the room at a given temperature. Say it's on 10 minutes of every hour then that's 10/60 x 3,000 = 500. That is, it's the same as having a 500W heater on constantly, which will cost you about 8p an hour.
Or you could plug in a couple of those 200W tubular heaters, giving you 400W of heating. For the same temp setting as above they may run constantly as they're only kicking out about an 1/8th of the power. Still going to cost you 8p an hour to achieve the same effect.
Both of these devices are very slow to react. They take quite a while to heat up (and then cool down), but are pretty good at maintaining an even temperature over a long time. But if you want to keep your pin shack cool most of the time and then warm it up quickly when you want to pop in to play (especially in the winter) then you're better of with a fan heater, which instantly kicks out exactly what you want: hot air.
Basically, though it boils down to this: electrical devices tend to have similar efficiencies, so over a reasonable length of time it's going to cost you the same to heat a given space to a given temperature regardless of what you plug in.
And as a final tip, the best way to heat a room is to stop it from losing heat in the first place. Good insulation is way cheaper than good heating!
Steve's right, too much info can sometimes confuse things.... However, in my experience of the two blockwork games rooms I've had (roughly 6m X 5m), wall, floor and ceiling insulation was the key; 50mm cavity bats between blockwork and plasterboard, same to floor and 100mm to ceiling. With that in place, a single oil filled radiator set to low temperature with thermostat has been absolutely fine and not noticed any difference on electricity bill. Also have a small de-humidifier which I put on from time to time on top as a precaution.
This is the dehumidifier I use at Special When Lit, it does a great job:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Amcor-Deh...tion-G-W-O-12-l-p-day-capacity-/191945766999?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Amcor-Deh...tion-G-W-O-12-l-p-day-capacity-/191945766999?
http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/...gclid=CObkkr6PvM8CFaIW0wodxIUFdw&gclsrc=aw.ds
It will be on there forever, lol.
It will be on there forever, lol.
Cheers.
Ah just seen this after commenting on your pic in the pin collection thread.
You could put some more timbers in between the roof framework, then cut the insulation board to fit between and push in. If any fall out as not tight enough, a few large 'U' nails underneath into the timber will hold 'em in place at the edges until you can get some plasterboard or plywood sheets under. That's what I did in my old games room.
You could put some more timbers in between the roof framework, then cut the insulation board to fit between and push in. If any fall out as not tight enough, a few large 'U' nails underneath into the timber will hold 'em in place at the edges until you can get some plasterboard or plywood sheets under. That's what I did in my old games room.
Spend money on insulation before heating. Once this is sorted properly then heating needed will be minimal.
Based on your photo a few sheets of 50mm celotex minimum screwed (with washers) onto the face of the purlings then joint tape (silver foil) where they join. Any large gaps use expanding foam as this locks it in tight also. Basically make a box inside the room. The problem you will have is how aesthetically pleasing you want it to look. Unlikely you will be able to put plasterboard over the top of insulation without some form of frame to fix onto. Adding this to the weight you are putting onto the roof structure then you are creating a new problem....
Not going to be cheap for that amount of insulation though...
Based on your photo a few sheets of 50mm celotex minimum screwed (with washers) onto the face of the purlings then joint tape (silver foil) where they join. Any large gaps use expanding foam as this locks it in tight also. Basically make a box inside the room. The problem you will have is how aesthetically pleasing you want it to look. Unlikely you will be able to put plasterboard over the top of insulation without some form of frame to fix onto. Adding this to the weight you are putting onto the roof structure then you are creating a new problem....
Not going to be cheap for that amount of insulation though...
Cheers Anton.
£202 for 10 sheets of 50mm Celotex delivered. Maintenance bloke at work suggested running batons along the roof profile to hold the Celotex in and then i can screw plasterboard to the batons to make it pretty. The roof is a steel frame apex so should be able to handle the weight.
what about something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151659258702?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT light weight and easy to bang up?
That's a fair price for 10 sheets. Yes, running 2x1 batons is a good idea, but that's going to be a fair amount of weight hanging from your ceiling if you intend to plasterboard. If you think it will take it then go with 9mm rather than 12mm plasterboard as it's much lighter. There are specific fixings for celotex, but you can't use them in your situation. Just use something like grip fill on the baton, this will hold it in place whilst you screw through the insulation. Use a good sized washer. Make sure you maintain an air gap between the face of the insulation and the external corrugated roof. This will help prevent condensation.
The other option. You could run timbers from one wall plate to the other and create a flat roof below the apex. Will cost more but a mile easier to insulate and could be done with hop ups.....makes plaster boarding a piece of **** also....however more costly on timber depending on the span, so anticipate 6" ceiling rafters.
Many ways to do it....but spending a few hundred quid more and making it easier would be my route.
David's right, if you properly insulate the surfaces you shouldn't get condensation but don't forget that you do need some form or air circulation. I boarded across the rafters with 6mm ply, then added fibreglass insulation then 18mm boards above that. Insulated the up & over door and then added 50mm polystyrene sheets in front of that. Lastly I added 25mm polystyrene backed plasterboard to the outer single brick walls.
One important but often overlooked item is the floor. Forget carpet and underlay, just drop carpet tiles on there.
For heating I used to use a tubular heater, then when that broke a convector now I have 2 infra red panels which are linked to a programmable thermostat.
One important but often overlooked item is the floor. Forget carpet and underlay, just drop carpet tiles on there.
For heating I used to use a tubular heater, then when that broke a convector now I have 2 infra red panels which are linked to a programmable thermostat.
As Sven said csrpet tiles are fantastic for the floor. I used them and am really happy.
That carpet looks **** hot. Great line up as well!
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I have visions of them coming home and looking puzzled at the bare floorboards in the front room :-D
I tend to get a new garage carpet every few years. By coincidence it tends to happen just after my parents decorate.
I can sit on the floor in winter with no problem. This happens quite often when the Mrs makes me 'go think about what you have done.'
