What's new
Pinball info

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Complete Pin Shed - On A Budget (ish)

I haven't used compressed rocksil, so know nothing about it

I was given some large rolls of rocksil for free. I used it overhead. Was horrendous. Like insulating using the contents of a vacuum cleaner
 
I like jablite. Not sure if you're allowed to use it in a wall without plasterboard for fire regulations.
Celotex is the worst stuff. Sawing it maked me choke.
But for some reason the rock wool / fiber glass stuff doesn't make me itch.
 
Funny you should say that Kev, I have a few packs of that exact stuff in the shed and was contemplating sticking it in the walls! :)

As Paul says Kingspan or similar would be better but I don't think it is essential.

I can get Kingspan TW50 from work for about £6/m2 so might go for that, still undecided...
Another big plus point is rockwool is fireproof - your planning officer might like that !!!!

Cheers

kev
 
I think you'll find he acquired the kingspan from site...

Personally, I have used both products in construction. The BATS is fine for under floor as a basic insulated and for sound deadening. Wouldn't use it on walls. No reason you can't, but Kingspan, or other cheaper solid alternatives, is way better. Get a much better seal, mice don't nick it or nest in it, the BATS can sag if it gets wet with moisture....I wouldn't, even use jablite nowadays. You can foam in gaps on solid insulation when cutting it around timbers and make it nice and tight, you can tape seal the joints etc... at the end the price difference might be £200... Considering there are a few grands worth of pins in the room, why skimp?
 
Always enjoy watching other people's work and getting ideas for when I get round to building my own room.

Not wanting to hijack this but has anyone used or have thoughts on SIP's (Structural Insulated Panels)?
 
I looked at SIPS - expensive but very quick to build with - only cons with these I could find was access for services - the only good solutions is to put laths on the inside wall and then line with plasterboard - makes it more hassle ad more expensive in the long run, but the thermal properties are excellent.

Forget to say though there are alsop no cold bridges where you upright 4x2 would go between walls as they use insulated splines between the sips

Have alook at this for ideas

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Self-Buil...056046?hash=item2ef5022cae:g:IWEAAOSwpdpVZYQy



horses for courses!

Cheers

Kev
 
Last edited:
I think you'll find he acquired the kingspan from site...

Personally, I have used both products in construction. The BATS is fine for under floor as a basic insulated and for sound deadening. Wouldn't use it on walls. No reason you can't, but Kingspan, or other cheaper solid alternatives, is way better. Get a much better seal, mice don't nick it or nest in it, the BATS can sag if it gets wet with moisture....I wouldn't, even use jablite nowadays. You can foam in gaps on solid insulation when cutting it around timbers and make it nice and tight, you can tape seal the joints etc... at the end the price difference might be £200... Considering there are a few grands worth of pins in the room, why skimp?
Agree with everything you say Anton - but if it is built correctly water and rodents shouldn't be an issue anyway :) and if it is, whether using rwa45 or kingspan it's all gonna have to come to bits to fix it anyway!

For info as a comparison on my proposed build its a lot more than £200 !!! kingspan - £900 and rwa45 £340 so £560 difference - is it really worth the difference (take can opener, open the tin labelled worms!!)

Down to the individual and budget I suspect - I think @Jsyjay only got the freebie kingspan for the floor ???

Cheers

Kev
 
I looked at SIPS - expensive but very quick to build with - only cons with these I could find was access for services - the only good solutions is to put laths on the inside wall and then line with plasterboard - makes it more hassle ad more expensive in the long run, but the thermal properties are excellent.

Forget to say though there are alsop no cold bridges where you upright 4x2 would go between walls as they use insulated splines between the sips

Have alook at this for ideas

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Self-Buil...056046?hash=item2ef5022cae:g:IWEAAOSwpdpVZYQy



horses for courses!

Cheers

Kev
That was my thoughts, but I'd thought as a finish you could go industrial. Varnish the wood and surface mount the electrics in metal conduit.
 
Or plastic conduit, cheaper and much quicker to work with than metal.
 
That was my thoughts, but I'd thought as a finish you could go industrial. Varnish the wood and surface mount the electrics in metal conduit.
Yeah you sure could do that then the outside just needs a membrane, lathing and then your cladding on. Certainly a quicker build!!


Sorry @Jsyjay we really have burgled your thread here man !!! but to be honest think all info on the subject is mega useful to all

Cheers

kev
 
Morning! :)

No worries, definitely interesting hearing everyone's input/opinions. Just goes to show there isn't one correct way of doing it.

@Cmor111 My plan was to do an industrial look with exposed metal conduit but will have to see what the cost difference is to plastic is.

I got a few pallets worth of this stuff free from work as Egger sent us the wrong spec then didn't want it back. :cuckoo:

http://www.egger.com/UK_en/products/?N=4294964873+21&R=product-2011-uk-en

Oh well their loss is my gain!

Attachment 1.jpg

Easy to fit and pre-protected 22mm chipboard flooring which I also plan to use on the walls.

Roofer finished yesterday and told him I would do the Tyvek this weekend as the weather is looking good so hopefully we will be pretty much watertight soon!

Also had a few quotes back for the Hardi Plank and it is coming out at around £1500-1600 which is less than I thought. http://www.jameshardie.co.uk/images/uploads/resources/HardiePlank_Brochure.pdf

Standard treated cladding is around £900-1000 before painting or possibly fireproofing so add a couple of hundred ££ and a good weekends worth of painting time to that.

I'm leaning towards the 'Light Mist' Hardi Plank at the moment...

p9070057.jpg
 
If you're worried about condensation. You could always get a single room heat recovery ventilation jobby.
Might as well go full grand shed designs.
 
Plastic will be easier and cheaper but for an industrial look it's got to be metal! Also metal will last longer if it gets a good smack from something or someone.

You could also think about putting your sockets at 900mm so you don't see any cables hanging down to the floor behind the pins. Will look better if you have under cab lighting.
 
Does anybody know if Kingspan/Celotex etc is still useable if it gets wet ?
I have some off cuts that I was going to throw away. I have since decided to use my surplus panels on my walls. Could I still use the off cuts that I have had outside ?
 
Does anybody know if Kingspan/Celotex etc is still useable if it gets wet ?
I have some off cuts that I was going to throw away. I have since decided to use my surplus panels on my walls. Could I still use the off cuts that I have had outside ?
Best bet would be to dry them out and see then, if they fall apart I'd say no if they're ok then go ahead.
 
@newdos

If you want voodoo, I can take this to a whole new level of brain ache and insanity ,,,,,

It is now rumoured that the current holy grail of insulation - celotex, kingspan, xtratherm .....also known as polyisocyanurate (PIR) insulation degrades over time......

https://www.boards.ie/b/thread/2056509861

But all I can find is pretty low-rent speculation

And slightly disconcerting stuff like this ...

"What is the life expectancy of Celotex?
Celotex is expected to remain efficient for the life of the building, and the Lambda values published have been prematurely aged in accordance with British Standards."
 
@newdos

If you want voodoo, I can take this to a whole new level of brain ache and insanity ,,,,,

It is now rumoured that the current holy grail of insulation - celotex, kingspan, xtratherm .....also known as polyisocyanurate (PIR) insulation degrades over time......

https://www.boards.ie/b/thread/2056509861

But all I can find is pretty low-rent speculation

And slightly disconcerting stuff like this ...

"What is the life expectancy of Celotex?
Celotex is expected to remain efficient for the life of the building, and the Lambda values published have been prematurely aged in accordance with British Standards."
haha!!!! love it man - I'm sure rockwool doesn't degrade overtime LOL!!!
 
This weekends progress (excuse the ****e iPhone pictures).
Finished insulating the floor and fitted the t&g chip board flooring.
Attachment 1.jpg
Next fitted the windows, they went in easy and look awesome. :clap: Also made a temporary door screen so it is pretty much waterproof.
Attachment 1.jpg
Started insulating the walls with some 50mm stuff I got cheap. It isn't the best so I put it in the south and west facing walls as these will get the most sun then will put some decent gear in the north and east walls.
Attachment 1.jpg
Attachment 1.jpg
And that's it up to now.

I've decided to go for the hardiplank cladding as it wasn't coming out that much more expensive compared to standard treated timber with fireproof paint so that will be the job for next weekend.

Update of costs to date:
Last total: £1,500
Hardiplank cladding: £1650
Additional timber: £200
Roof: £500
Insulation: £250
Total: £4,100

Cheers :)
 
Looking good man!!!! - Is that a water pipe I see coming in there as well ?
 
Thanks mate!

Decided to run a drain and water feed in just in case I want to fit a kitchenette or similar at a later date. A lot easier to do it now rather than wishing I'd done it later.
 
Thanks mate!

Decided to run a drain and water feed in just in case I want to fit a kitchenette or similar at a later date. A lot easier to do it now rather than wishing I'd done it later.
nice one good idea - how did your founds come on with planning guys ? Did they say you could use ordinary cladding if you used fireproof paint as well ?


Cheers

kev
 
All building permission sorted, still waiting on the structural engineers calculations to come back for the pads but have been told they are fit for purpose so can crack on in the meantime.

The cladding would have to be fire rated so either standard timber cladding painted or a man made product like Hardiplank which made more sense in the end.
 
Back
Top Bottom