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Flipper Strength

Marcel

Marcel

Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 26, 2017
Messages
612
Location
Huddersfield
Playing LOTR, I'm starting to wonder about flipper strength. But I'm also thinking im just rubbish.

My ring shots are 8/10 rattling and returning. The one time I got "there and back" it held the initial ball as it does and I hit it several times but instead of knocking the first ball through, the second ball just held on! A massive disappointment although it eventually dropped them both out in ball search and I did complete it.

Sometimes though, I hit a sweet shot and it blasts up the ramp & that makes me think I'm rubbish the rest of the time.

Is there a flipper test?
 
There are a number of factors in play for the ring shot on LOTR.
The spinner has to be set right. It needs to be angled in such a way that the spinner doesn't hang down straight. The top of the spinner should lean towards the player and the bottom half of the spinner should lean away from the player (sounds daft I know).
Also you want the spinner to work but impart the minimum amount of friction on its microswitch. You achieve this by gently bending the microswitch blade.
Make sure there are no burrs on the metal ramp. If there are remove the ramp and gently file away the burrs with a needle file.
Make sure the playfield is clean and waxed.

There are also settings in the menu system to alter the flippers that are supposed to stop the flipper coils from getting too hot (resulting in weak flippers).

I played a 40 minute game on mine and was still able to comfortably hit the ring shot at the end of the game.
 
Thanks stoptap, my spinner is sitting wrong then, it sits with the lower part leaning towards me as in a bad angle.

Ill take another looker to see how to alter that.

Yes I need a good wax & cloth, I used a damp cloth and noticed it left fibres behind. Lint free next time.
Is there a recommended wax?

I'll also go and look into flipper menu to see what settings are available thanks:)

I read somewhere there was a setting to stop the ring holding the first ball on destroy the ring but that sounds less fun, I like the fact that ball can be knocked through, I just wish I could do it!


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Marcel said:
Thanks stoptap, my spinner is sitting wrong then, it sits with the lower part leaning towards me as in a bad angle.

Ill take another looker to see how to alter that.

Yes I need a good wax & cloth, I used a damp cloth and noticed it left fibres behind. Lint free next time.
Is there a recommended wax?

I'll also go and look into flipper menu to see what settings are available thanks:)

I read somewhere there was a setting to stop the ring holding the first ball on destroy the ring but that sounds less fun, I like the fact that ball can be knocked through, I just wish I could do it!


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Never use a damp cloth ! Water should be nowhere near a pinball playfield.

28 days in the cooler for you soldier [emoji38]
 
LOTR is famous for this issue. Stern have even released uprated flipper coils for the game. http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1112

People have replaced whole flipper mechanisms to try and reduce problems. One person blamed cooling and installed PC fans to help keep the flipper coils cool...!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cooling-flipper-coils-by-aluminium-heat-sinks-or-pc-fans

I found that new cabinet switches make a big difference and highly recommend that you try replacing them first.
https://www.pinball.co.uk/shop/flip...ast-parts/flipper-cabinet-switch-500-6889-01/

Also check that your EOS switches are present, that the flipper plunger and end stop are clean and not mushroomed.
 
Wow, cheers for that moonraker, some good info there.

So would you just replace cabinet switches regardless of condition?
Can't they be cleaned up to help conductivity?

And what of those upgraded could, is that an admission the originals aren't up to the job, if so they need swapping out don't they.

What's the wax for the job, playfield is in pretty good shape barring my poor wipe down.


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Marcel said:
Wow, cheers for that moonraker, some good info there.

So would you just replace cabinet switches regardless of condition?
Can't they be cleaned up to help conductivity?

And what of those upgraded could, is that an admission the originals aren't up to the job, if so they need swapping out don't they.

What's the wax for the job, playfield is in pretty good shape barring my poor wipe down.


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Yes, given that you have issues.

Unfortunately, they can't be cleaned effectively.

I think the upgrade coils aren't needed but little things like that seem to make all the difference when you're at your witts end.

Try using pledge for waxing the playfield.
https://www.tesco.com/groceries/product/details/?id=274621652
 
After further reading of that thread I see fans would work better than coil upgrades offered by stern and that I will have a spare accessory power supply (I've seen this is available in my machine).

Therefore, I just need fans, cable ties and a connector fitting to suit the accessory power supply.

That way the fan fix I do will be temporary & work effectively.

Still, I'll try those cabinet switches before the fan upgrade. Although I have an old pc or 2 lying about for the job.


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The fans approach is drastic and unnecessary IMO. A flipper rebuild, spinner set correctly and a good clean, waxed playfield at the right angle and you should hit the shot with no problems.
My game has standard coils and the ball occaisionally flies off the Legolas ramp. Lord knows what it would be like with stronger coils.
 
Thanks Andrew, I got impatient and used pledge though.

It is faster but left flipper still struggling (although it does reach).

I'm also thinking I may already have the upgraded coils, is the pictured one the upgraded option?uploads.tapatalk_cdn.com_20170314_bac31796cc9fb0c4f9668310c1a0f225.jpg


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Marcel said:
Wow, cheers for that moonraker, some good info there.

So would you just replace cabinet switches regardless of condition?
Can't they be cleaned up to help conductivity?

And what of those upgraded could, is that an admission the originals aren't up to the job, if so they need swapping out don't they.

What's the wax for the job, playfield is in pretty good shape barring my poor wipe down.


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carnauba guitar wax, does an excellent job:thumbs:
 
Thanks for confirming moonraker, are there any legs in cleaning coils?

I read a thread whereby someone had cleaned the coils and replaced their sleeves?


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jagman said:
carnauba guitar wax, does an excellent job:thumbs:
Click to expand...

Thanks jag man, I was scared of wax on wax off with carnauba, pledge was (to a fool most likely) easier to leave the playfield) without traces of solids.




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Moonraker said:
Already said to check the flipper plunger and end stop (yes you can clean or replace the coil sleeve at the same time).

Also check that the flipper isn't binding on the flipper brushing.

I'll look into it when I get chance thanks moon.
Binding and bushing seem obvious but until I see what you mean, I'm confused. It'll become clear when I see it though:)


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Thanks for the shopping list, shall I buy spares of any parts to save on shipping "if" any parts wear more often?


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Marcel said:
Thanks for the shopping list, shall I buy spares of any parts to save on shipping "if" any parts wear more often?


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You only need to keep spare coil sleeves really.
 
Found flipper settings no. 53 & 54.
Set them to 10 & 40.

I still don't know what they do but thought what can I lose. Grand Champion score within a few games but left flipper still weak imo.

Happy days:)


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Make sure you have a very good quality 5/32" allen key before you attempt a flipper rebuild. If you use a sh*t one there is a strong possibility that you will round one of the cap head screws and then you are in for a world of pain.
Also make sure that when you finish the rebuild and are setting the angles of the flipper bats that there needs to be some free up and down movement to the bat. You should be able to grab the flipper bat and move it up and down a bit (as though you were trying to pull the bat out of the game). Check the flipper bats before you start the strip down to get a feel for how much they should move. This is VERY important as it stops the flippers getting weak when they warm up.
 
Yep, I'll refer to this when stripping them. I did them once before many years ago and know they can be tricky little things.

Thanks for the tips, it will make it easier:)


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Glad I ordered those parts, right flipper packed up on my second highest score today.

Right flipper is working but barely capable of reaching a ramp. Limp!

The coils won't have packed up under these new circumstances will they?
uploads.tapatalk_cdn.com_20170315_cad0abc6cf1b708d02ebd0e68ba49a62.jpg

uploads.tapatalk_cdn.com_20170315_b0001d8fe6c6c8e56a63c555afb378b1.jpg


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Do your flippers move up and down if you lift them ?
Take off the coil stop and you will be able to remove the coil. Have a look and see what is happening inside.
Those plungers look non standard to me. They have been machined where the roll pin joins it to the plastic link.
There is also a lot of carbon dust.
 
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