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In Progress Firepower Shop Log
- Thread starter RudeDogg1
- Start date
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I'm hoping I'm wrong here but..... I was totally anal and made a note labled ect every connection which colour went on wich lamp tab ect. But totally over looked which colour goes on which coil tab. My question is does it matter which way around they go? I'm thinking it does. Just wanted clarification befor I dig through all my pics trying to work it out
It does, on games where the coils have diodes. The diodes on the coils show which way around to connect the wires;
The coil terminal where the end of the diode has a silver band (the cathode, or -ve) has the +28V wire(s) connected. The coil terminal with the plain end of the diode (anode/+ve) has the return wire connected. This goes to the driver transistor and eventually to Ground.
If the wires were on the other way round, the diode would conduct the 28V power direct to the transistor.
The coil terminal where the end of the diode has a silver band (the cathode, or -ve) has the +28V wire(s) connected. The coil terminal with the plain end of the diode (anode/+ve) has the return wire connected. This goes to the driver transistor and eventually to Ground.
If the wires were on the other way round, the diode would conduct the 28V power direct to the transistor.
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Damn it lol
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Does anyone know where I can get a new one of these tilt switches mine looks abit knackered and hacked
Also does anyone know what these are called or anyone that sells them?
Also does anyone know what these are called or anyone that sells them?
that bottom one is called a saucer cover or something like that, i had to go buy some when i was shopping WCS a while back, and after looking around the net around the world, i thought of asking Andy 'The Legend' Netherwood of pinball mania (http://www.pinballmania.co.uk/) and of course after i managed to describe him what i was on about - and a picture tells a thousand words - he said sure, what colour and how many do you want. the ball falls in that saucer, and a progger comes out, fired by a coil of course, and whacks it from underneath. WCS has two of the buggers.
Rudi, i know you know Andy, i'm only posting the details for all the n00bs that have joined up recently - Andy is a top bloke. ok, his website needs an overhaul, but he can diagnose a fault from tiny clues from far away, and he stocks loads of parts that you can't find on the website.
if for some reason he has run out, and you're in a hurry, i bought extras so will happily send you a purple or a red one by post, i'm sure i have a small baggy with about four in
Rudi, i know you know Andy, i'm only posting the details for all the n00bs that have joined up recently - Andy is a top bloke. ok, his website needs an overhaul, but he can diagnose a fault from tiny clues from far away, and he stocks loads of parts that you can't find on the website.
if for some reason he has run out, and you're in a hurry, i bought extras so will happily send you a purple or a red one by post, i'm sure i have a small baggy with about four in
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Cheers dan ill fling him an email. No im in no hurry it's gonna b ages yet
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- Ive
Rudi - FP is an awesome game and you have got a great project BUT ...and don't take this the wrong way...... should you not maybe sort out the electrical/board side of things and get this running before laying out a load of cash on shiny new playfield bits ? Maybe its just my pragmatic side but I like to know a machine is basically working before spending a lot of time and money tarting it up. I'm sure you'll get there in the end with it 
It does all boot up as I had the board set fixed and working
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Like he said lol
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Just noticed the cone has perished on the cab speaker. Do I have to buy a Williams speaker or can I buy a car one? If so what type do I need?
Any speaker of the same size and impedance will be fine if you want a straight drop in replacement.
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Cheers dude
More pics and progress coming soon
More pics and progress coming soon
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Well progress is slowly plodding along. A lot of the metal work has been tumbled. I've made a start on the back box restore sanded, filled, sprayed but it's in my workshop at work so haven't finished the last few coats of black and the stencilling yet so pics to follow.
The last few days I've been going through the looms so far I've gone through the back box looms checking for breaks, changing connectors apart from the connectors most of the looms weren't to bad..... Apart from this last one (all these pics are the same loom)
The last few days I've been going through the looms so far I've gone through the back box looms checking for breaks, changing connectors apart from the connectors most of the looms weren't to bad..... Apart from this last one (all these pics are the same loom)
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As you can see this one is a nightmare. I've gone as far as I can with this one at the mo while I wait for more connectors and colour coded wire. And as i suspected from my initial inspection of the machine some of the wiring for the solenoids is totally missing right back to the board. Why someone would do that is beyond me. Now I know what colours are missing from the board connector but I'm not sure what connectors they go to and the drawings don't seem to say. So if any of you guys could point me in the right direction I'd be greatful.
For anyone that can help (im not very good at working out the diagrams) the connector im on about is 3J3 on the power board. 8 Solenoid B+ (28 VDC) 6 red and 7 ground (spec, common switch 3 black. Of course thats if the original connector that was on it was wired in the correct places. Pinball calling the legend pinball calling the legend lol
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I was originally after a new spinner to replace the painted one due to mine having a lot of paint worn off it. After searching the net and coming to the conclusion you can't buy them new I posted a wanted ad on yahoo. Was offered 3 playfields lol mines fine but nice to know they are out there. Anyway someone was kind enough to send me one. It had some where but not as much as mine and only on the black. I don't like the idea of just puting decals on it. So as a test I touched up mine with a cotton bud (didn't have a small brush here) and createx opaque black. Once dry I clear coated it and was quite pleased with the results despite the colours still being chipped and I'd applied to much clear in one hit. Decided this was the way to go. So went down the model shop and got a decent brush these are the results.
Before
After sadly the pics don't really pick up the shine from the clear
As it's going to take quite a while before the machine is back together it should allow the clear to cure nice and hard
Before
After sadly the pics don't really pick up the shine from the clear
As it's going to take quite a while before the machine is back together it should allow the clear to cure nice and hard
Nice work rudi, it looks great
Way to go Rudi, you'll get a heap of satisfaction bringing this pin back to life.
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just need to get my head around the wiring. While im on the subject befor i order some colour coded wire 18 AWG is the thinner stuff isnt it? I know its different than the uk system
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Anyone kind enough to try and help with my wiring prob?......
Anyway...... Today I had a break from the wiring I upgraded the powerboard caps and connectors.
One of the old caps starting to bulge
Next I installed a nvram chip so no more battery's
And connectors
Most of the old connectors had cracked solder joints
Anyway...... Today I had a break from the wiring I upgraded the powerboard caps and connectors.
One of the old caps starting to bulge
Next I installed a nvram chip so no more battery's
And connectors
Most of the old connectors had cracked solder joints
Well done Rudi, some good work there.
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Right gone back on to the looms doing the cab one at the mo as it seemed the easiest. Now on this mini loom there's deff a jumper wire missing on this connector for some reason I don't question the bizzarness with this machine anymore I just shake my head and put it back to factor anyway I digress. The jumper that is there is in the wrong position isn't it? Or am I misreading the drawing. Dyslexia and schematics don't mix lol.
Attachments
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Right think ive got to the bottom of the cab loom only prob ive come across which im not sure about is on the coin door side of the short coin door loom there are 5 wires cut off at the connector. One grey and black you can see in my pick just looks like a ground just screwed to the door (cant even see that on the wiring diagram), 3 are for the center and left coin mech which it doesn't have anyway so not bothered about that but the last one red is ment to go to the coin lock out but I have no idea what that is can anyone help please? Also as you can see in my pic there are 2 replacement wron coloured wires yello and a grey one attached to the 2 coin mech leaf switches the other end of thoughs wires are connected to nothing. Any idea what colours they are replacing so I can connect them up. Heres the link to the wiring diagram http://www.firepowerpinball.com/downloads/CabinetWiring.pdf
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the force is strong with you well in your trousers anyway
what can I say im having a pj day lol anyway back on topic
The wire that is white with purple stripe connects to the leaf switch that the non banded end of the diode is connected to.
Is the schematic the correct configuration for the UK?
The coin lock out is normally a small mini coil attached to the side of a coin mechanism. In your case this isn't fitted by the looks of things.
The yellow and grey wires are for either right coin chute, centre coin chute or left coin chute. Either the yellow or grey wire will also go round to the plumb tilt, ball roll tilt and start button. This should connect to the green and brown wire for switch col #1. The other wire should then return to one of the chute returns switch row #4, #5 or #6 depending on which switch you wish to use it as. It looks like you're missing a diode from the circuit 7D4 (7D5 or 7D6). It should look like the slam tilt switch that has the Green and Brown wire (Column #1) on one side through the switch and diode (7D7) on to the white with green stripe wire (row #7) which goes to pin 11 on connector 7P2.
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Cheers peter
