In Progress Williams Expo 1969

[Ashbo]

That back glass is a good candidate for a decent repair as the paint lifted areas are opaque and mainly flat blocks of a basic colour to the front - these are the easiest to touch up.

I tested mixing Acryics on the front of the glass, let dry for true colour then paint on back and seal over with silver acrylic. It's very forgiving process as you can even scrape it off the back of the glass and redo if necessary. I followed techniques from http://www.pinrepair.com/restore/index1.htm#touch

Good luck it should come up nice and save a repro if you're not doing a minter job

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Paints delivered, date set for this weekend...can't wait.

 

[Ashbo]

Paints delivered, date set for this weekend...can't wait.

Paints still untouched. It's been clean clean clean today. Decided to remove flakes of paint as there was so much of it there was no how of a good finish. Hopefully I can get the cleaning done this afternoon and then mask up the clear areas so I can apply some triple thick before the football!

Maybe I get to paint a bit tomorrow??

Oh and the most time consuming action of the day, working the rusty lift trim off without breaking the glass. Scary!!

 

[Ashbo]

Glad I decided to clean before the triple thick, before and after cleaning black mould...

 

[Ashbo]

Cleaning done, finally some lacquer....top and bottom four inches done as it was snowing paint every time I picked her up. Tomorrow afternoon I'll mask the transparent bits and coat the middle. No paint this weekend, takes longer than I thought. No sense in rushing I suppose.

 

[Ashbo]

Cleaning done, finally some lacquer....top and bottom four inches done as it was snowing paint every time I picked her up. Tomorrow afternoon I'll mask the transparent bits and coat the middle. No paint this weekend, takes longer than I thought. No sense in rushing I suppose.

Just checked in on the triple thick, I've done something wrong, very hazy on glass and no adhesion on the flakes. Back to the drawing board tomorrow me thinks. I think I should stretch the cling film and push the lacquer in hard.

 

[AlanJ]

the triple thick forms a holding layer over the back of an unstable paintwork layer, you don’t want any on the bare glass.

 

[Ashbo]

the triple thick forms a holding layer over the back of an unstable paintwork layer, you don’t want any on the bare glass.

Ahhhhhh...razor blade out tomorrow then thanks @AlanJ

 

[Ashbo]

Day 2 of backglass. Think there many be many many days effort here. Colour matching is really hard, especially when the rescued, yet loose, paint is a different colour to the original paint that's in tact.

Once the silver goes on the dry paint it improves things, but it needs a really thick coat to make it opaque. My first coats are not very smooth, the final coat needs to be better. I think a pallet knife may be easier.

Quite pleased I managed to rescue the translucent numbers at the top, but they are definitely not great.

I'll see how this goes before shelling out on a reproduction.

 

[Ashbo]

Thanks Amazon for the pallet knives, a bit more done after work. Even application of the silver is key.

 

[Ashbo]

Bit more progress today, nearly run out of vermilion acrylic. Started having a go at the turquoise. Won't know until I add the silver mask. Fingers crossed.

 

[Ashbo]

Another 5 hours today, there is no way this will be mint! I'm more than happy with how this is going though. I have learned so much and very happy considering I was always going to replace the glass. May still get a new one in the end, but getting hooked on this restoring. Can't imagine what it will feel like if I ever get good at it!!!

 

[Ashbo]

Ok, that's the last of the block colours, leave it to dry and then seal it with the silver. The numbers and letters are destroyed so "attempting" to make them work again. The silver will be tricky here. Only time will tell......

 

[AlanJ]

Great work, you have a lot more skill and, importantly, patience than me.

 

[Ashbo]

Great work, you have a lot more skill and, importantly, patience than me.

I doubt that sir!!! Lol. Patience maybe, but I do have less projects on the go

 

[astyy]

The numbers and letters are destroyed so "attempting" to make them work again

I gave up on areas like that and completely scraped it off, I then reverse printed (ie white letters on black background) suitably sized numbers/letters onto thick paper and cut them out with a scalpel. This light filter template I then mounted behind theatre lighting gel. You'll be pleased with what you get away with when the player is a playfields length away from the glass, also sticking with dimmer incandescent helps

 

[Ashbo]

I gave up on areas like that and completely scraped it off, I then reverse printed (ie white letters on black background) suitably sized numbers/letters onto thick paper and cut them out with a scalpel. This light filter template I then mounted behind theatre lighting gel. You'll be pleased with what you get away with when the player is a playfields length away from the glass, also sticking with dimmer incandescent helps

Thanks @astyy . That sounds like a great idea. Off to eBay to look for gels

 

[Ashbo]

Rebuilt areas and silver done. Keen to stop knocking flakey areas of paint off. Hope to let this dry then protect all but the clear areas with triple thick.

 

[Ashbo]

Triple thick applied, this time the clear glass elements were masked, lesson learned

 

[Ashbo]

All dry, back in the backbox safe and sound. Next lets start removing rust...

 

[AlanJ]

Nice one.

 

[Ashbo]

Starting to look better....there is hope!

 

[Ashbo]

Nice one.

Thanks sir

 

[AlanJ]

Only problem with this thread is it makes me want to get another EM . They are so nice to work on.

 

[Ashbo]

Only problem with this thread is it makes me want to get another EM . They are so nice to work on.

I'm doing one, and I want more!!!!

 

[Ashbo]

It's nice and hot outside, I thought it repaint the black bit of the backbox. Hmmm, no sander just sand paper, I'll be alright. Several hours and two showers later, it's ready for wood filler....

 

[Ashbo]

Filled, primed and first coat of black.....this will be done today!!!

 

[Ashbo]

BALLS!! It was all going so well. Damp cloth = no, dry cloth = no.... eh!!????

Where is my Sharpie???

 

[AlanJ]

You can print a new one on paper and attach it. there is a website with them on
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/

scroll down to "score reel numbers"

 

[Ashbo]

You can print a new one on paper and attach it. there is a website with them on
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/

scroll down to "score reel numbers"

Awesome help. Thanks @AlanJ

 

[Ashbo]

Recently I've been using a magic eraser to get as much crud off of the playfield as I can. Learning fast that there is a fine line between still dirty and removing paint.

It also seems to look a lot worse when the crud has gone. More bare wood that I had anticipated.

Have had to fill in some nasty scars under the posts of the upper playfield. Also had to fill the select a spin as it was a bit mangled up.

Once I had cleaned as much as I dare, I have started on touching up the playfield. Black first, that will take a while. After cleaning my Time Machine recently and the remnants of a previous owners felt tip paint job stuck out to me, I have opted to repaint the black on the Expo.

Progress slow as I have to finish my 27" virtual pin build. Waiting for some dry weather to complete the stenciling.