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In Progress Whitewater Rebuild......

And Me!!!!

I now have 36 hours to wait for the paint on the head brackets to dry :( :(
 
Very nice, I bet your buzzing doing a cracking job, well done that man.
36 hours for the paint to dry , what the hell have you used ? Sounds like it might be special.
 
Nahh.... Just standard plastikote Satin Super.... "Re-coat within 4 hours or after 36 hours" i.e. after 36 hours it's actually dry!!

Will see how it dries through the evening...... Dont wanna be getting black paint on my new decals ;)
 
Wonder whats going to get put back together first ?
TAF or wh20 ? Looks like the wh20 could be in the lead.
 
wh20 is aimed to be done first..... I havent got a complete pf rebuild to do on it.. yet..!!
 
Wow! That's one hell of a job you've done.
I've got to do some thing with my Mr & Mrs Pacman cab, but it won't be to that sort of standard, strewth that's a high bar!
 
Cheers chaps.... Yes - I have a nice collection of Empty cabs!!! Just need to get em filled so I can play em now!!! :D
 
Ok. So things I have learnt so far on the road to referbishment.....

1. When filling wood, you can use Something like Miliput. However, it takes forever to set. I ended up on the last few "repairs" using Ronseal "high performance wood filler".... http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/decora...ood-Filler-Natural-275g-9254231?skuId=9261930 Not cheap - however a 2 part filler (Like car P40 filler), however drys in 1/2 hour and is hard as nails. Only downside is that it really does go off quickly - you have around 5 mins after mixing before it's unusable, so prepare beforehand.

2. Loom cleaning - http://www.cillitbang.co.uk/products-active-foam-soapscum.php - spray on - leave for 20 mins, scrub, and then rinse with a shower. Repeat and leave in the airing cupboard for a week to dry :)

3. Paint - I have used Simoniz Grey primer to give a base coat.

4. More Paint - Black - I use Plastikote Satin Super - http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/paint-...Spray-Satin-Black-400ml-9254007?skuId=9261706. Good for any black metal work, cab sides, corners on cabs etc etc... Remember - lots of thin coats - maybe 3 or 4...

5. To re-finish screw heads (re-blacken), sand the head so it's uniformly smooth and all corrosion is gone. Make holes in an empty cornflake box with a Stanley knife, stick the screw thread in, dont bother to primer, Spray heads with Black paint (Mentioned above..). Job done :)

All available cheaper than listed sources in bulk on Ebay of course, even with the post :)
 
Paul said:
Ok. So things I have learnt so far on the road to referbishment.....

1. When filling wood, you can use Something like Miliput. However, it takes forever to set. I ended up on the last few "repairs" using Ronseal "high performance wood filler".... http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/decora...ood-Filler-Natural-275g-9254231?skuId=9261930 Not cheap - however a 2 part filler (Like car P40 filler), however drys in 1/2 hour and is hard as nails. Only downside is that it really does go off quickly - you have around 5 mins after mixing before it's unusable, so prepare beforehand.
/
Upol body filler also works great and easy to sand. A polyester filler the same as the ronseal minus the colouring and higher price tag
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Steve said:
Good call but I only have one machine left that hasn't yet been restored and that's TOTAN so I think that will be next for the treatment!
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Your TOTAN looks fantastic as it is and I originally said leave it. However, knowing the treatment you give your machines I can see it doesn't live up to your high standards so go for it, make a super TOTAN. :)
 
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