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Very Irritating noise from my Getaway

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biglouieuk said:
Chaps, my intention here is to fix this pinball..Nothing more, nothing less. I found this thread while researching "irritating noise from getaway pinball". I kid you not!

I did have to laugh/shudder when I found this thread.

All help very much appreciated though, really just keen to get everyone playing pinball in my house again! :)
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Sadly Big Louieuk you will find there are some, (thankfully only a few), "members" on this forum that seem to enjoy "baiting" other members by making childish digs and comments when in fact their ignorance is obvious though to any "adult". Anyone really wanting to help will make suggestions and constructive suggestions not silly comments!

When you power up the machine (and it no longer blows fuses) , do you get any error codes? you can look them up in the manual I supplied. It may be the Audio Board (I know it is not the CPU as it is new). I do have several Audio Boards in my workshop not too sure if I have an A-12738-50004 WPC Audio Board though as most of my machines are the later A-16917-50029 Sound Boards. If I have not got one, I am sure one of the true enthusiasts on this site will have one to try out rather than making pointless sarcastic comments. Can I also suggest that you leave the machine in Switch Test mode as it would eliminate the Switch Matrix as being to problem is the sound appears without a switch closure. Another thing to look for is a one of the playfield switches shorting to Ground (maybe just touching). I will see if I have an Audio Board (but you will need to swap the Getaway ROM) If not has anyone else a board BiglouieUK can borrow to help pinpoint this problem??
 
You started this thread with the same problem the new owner is now experiencing. You said yourself in subsequent diagnosis that changing the data ribbon cable did nothing, then later on you are telling the new owner that it fixed the problem (“discovered that It was heat related and eventually I found the main Data ribbon cable to be faulty”). You also said that changing the audio board fixed the problem as well, though evidently you didn’t leave the replacement audio board in place when you sold it on.

I don’t have an axe to grind - I’m commenting on a new owner of this pin having the exact same problem you did when you were looking for help on here. The new owner may have made things worse by messing with the ribbons, potentially causing the new fuse issue, but he wouldn’t be doing that if he didn’t have a problem in the first place.

It seems obvious to me that the problem that started this thread was never really fixed - and if I was being uncharitable I’d suggest demoing it in preferable conditions where it’s cold or whatever is masking (or, less charitable, hiding) the problem rather than fixing it properly, particularly if it’s a heat issue as you yourself later suggested.

None of the above is any kind of commentary on anything else so going down the road of vendettas or other nonsense doesn’t help anyone.

@biglouieuk - double and triple check the ribbon cable that its not off, it’s very easy to get it wrong and it will be very hard to see without close inspection. Until that’s resolved there’s no point looking into the random sound issue.
 
A video would help also of said noise if possible.
 
Like I said at the start of this thread just get PinSound as also said by Chris, I had loads of faults appear on my Getaway soundboard. It was repaired in the end after sending it off 3 or 4 times. I was selling it otherwise I would have fitted PinSound as the machine deserves better quality sound.
If I was local to you I would come round and put a spare board in and try and help, maybe someone local can help?
 
Durzel said:
You started this thread with the same problem the new owner is now experiencing. You said yourself in subsequent diagnosis that changing the data ribbon cable did nothing, then later on you are telling the new owner that it fixed the problem (“discovered that It was heat related and eventually I found the main Data ribbon cable to be faulty”). You also said that changing the audio board fixed the problem as well, though evidently you didn’t leave the replacement audio board in place when you sold it on.

I don’t have an axe to grind - I’m commenting on a new owner of this pin having the exact same problem you did when you were looking for help on here. The new owner may have made things worse by messing with the ribbons, potentially causing the new fuse issue, but he wouldn’t be doing that if he didn’t have a problem in the first place.

It seems obvious to me that the problem that started this thread was never really fixed - and if I was being uncharitable I’d suggest demoing it in preferable conditions where it’s cold or whatever is masking (or, less charitable, hiding) the problem rather than fixing it properly, particularly if it’s a heat issue as you yourself later suggested.

None of the above is any kind of commentary on anything else so going down the road of vendettas or other nonsense doesn’t help anyone.

@biglouieuk - double and triple check the ribbon cable that its not off, it’s very easy to get it wrong and it will be very hard to see without close inspection. Until that’s resolved there’s no point looking into the random sound issue.
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IF what you claim is true (and it is not) How then... 1) Did the buyer turn it on, try, it, play it until he was satisfied, take it home and play if for weeks and only then mention there was any issue? 2) Why would I offer to swap out a board (if I have one), FOC? 3) Would I offer to help him at all? You are implying that I knowingly sold a faulty machine yet I am prepared to help him now! Why? I suggest you get you FACTS straight and correct . When I took on the HS2 it had over 15 logic/ audio problems, all fixed! I purchased brand new ribbons for the game after I discovered an intermittent address line on the CPU/ Audio Bus. check my precious posts, (not that any of this has anything to do with you) Just another "keyboard Warrior" making allegations and shouting their mouth off when they do not KNOW ALL THE FACTS! Clearly you have a lot to say on this (an issue you f--k all about. Fine YOU take over and you send BiglouieUK a swap out board.! Gone quiet have you?? BiglouieUK you have a new Benefactor that is gonna sort out all you problems as he clearly KNOWS IT ALL!
 
Lol “gone quiet have you”, you realise this is a forum and not live chat yeah?

I don’t have any spare boards. I own three pins and I’m an home user not a self professed engineer, and I don’t flip pins for profit (avoiding this forum doing it because of its savvy members)

I wouldn’t flog a machine for top money with a known issue without disclosing it, but that’s just me. Let’s agree to disagree and you can maintain that you fixed it by replacing a part you already said didn’t fix it, and didn’t provide the replacement part that did.
 
Andy, don't be so touchy mate, everyone else gets the same suspicion in the circumstances. As they don't apply to you, you don't need to take them to heart - just let them be shown as not true as the fault's worked out.
 
Durzel you really need to button it this is a post to try and sort the guys issues not to stir trouble if you have no technical ability then there is no point commenting
Andy you are clearly an amateur when it comes to wpc pinball you can see it with the questions you ask in previous posts you maybe a fully qualified electronic engineer but I find pinball experience far outweighs this you have replaced many components you had absolutely no need to replace in previous posts you also brag about how much you finished this project for and how much you sold it for a hugh profit so the least you can do is sort the guys issue out even if this means buying him a used working board I have followed your posts and to say the game was fully restored is not correct and the pics we did see where poor and the main part under the playfield we did not see I do many full restorations and if you are doing it properly it does not take 3 weeks
 
Durzel said:
Video was posted earlier here:
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Hang on, isn't that the coin drop sound effect? That's definitely not electrical noise, that's a game noise. And there's not many that will trigger over and over when in attract mode.
Maybe unhook the coin door... If that makes it go away then there's a good place to start.

I strongly doubt there's much wrong with the sound board on the basis of that video... other than not liking the loud 'boop' when the game is immediately powered on, but that's not really a sign of anything truly important.

I'm at work right now otherwise I'd go and immediately check on PinMAME.

I'm beginning to feel like there's been a hilarious SNAFU that would have been solved with a bit of game familiarity!
 
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...of course, after you've hopefully found that the ribbon cables are offset and that caused your fuses to blow! Trust us, that cable can feel absolutely home but it'll be off by a whole row. Visually confirm it!
 
Sven Normansson said:
yes, credit noise. I'm not sure that's tested in the switch matrix test. Either a stuck switch there or bad board. Try disconnecting the coin interface board.
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It's definitely not included in Getaway's switch matrix test; it goes via the dedicated switches header to the MPU.

If it's not the coin door, there a good chance of corrosion from leaky batteries underneath any of chips U16 through to U20. Fixed a very obnoxious Addams Family with a similar fault that way.
 
PBrookfield said:
It's definitely not included in Getaway's switch matrix test; it goes via the dedicated switches header to the MPU.

If it's not the coin door, there a good chance of corrosion from leaky batteries underneath any of chips U16 through to U20. Fixed a very obnoxious Addams Family with a similar fault that way.
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it has a new cpu so no chance of that but worth checking the connectors to the cpu for corrosion but I thought these would have been replaced if fully restored
Easiest way to check just take off free play and see if it coins up then if it does then either disconnect the interface board then work back to cpu
 
It was said that it went away when the sound board was replaced.

Of course simply removing and inserting the ROMs and ribbons could fix things, or cause new problems (aren’t they rated for a limited number of pulls?).

I ballsed up fitting Gold ROMs on my TAF, pins weren’t quite true in the sockets but looked right from a glance. Made a god awful noise when I tried booting it. It’s so easy (imo) to get the ribbons slightly offset too.
 
Durzel said:
It was said that it went away when the sound board was replaced.

Of course simply removing and inserting the ROMs and ribbons could fix things, or cause new problems (aren’t they rated for a limited number of pulls?).

I ballsed up fitting Gold ROMs on my TAF, pins weren’t quite true in the sockets but looked right from a glance. Made a god awful noise when I tried booting it. It’s so easy (imo) to get the ribbons slightly offset too.
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Meh - loose connection on the coin door or on the ribbon cable leading to the dedicated switch pins header could coincidentally show and obscure the problem at just the wrong times.

That's the bugger about intermittent connections of any sort. If you aren't super careful and a little experienced you can be tricked into concluding irrelevant causes.

Getting the ribbon between MPU and driver board offset by a row will make most of the coils lock on and will make your fuses explode fast - every time!
 
It’s a good catch picking up that it’s the credit sound. That could be a good starting point, particularly if you can play games (and warm the machine up) without the sound occurring.
 
Slam the coin door a few times see if it goes away.
 
The video is very helpful, at least we know what the irritating noise is - i was expecting some sort of hum or somthing from poor grounds. There must be a switch with a wire touching somewhere in the coin door perhaps?
 
CHRIS B PINBALLS said:
Durzel you really need to button it this is a post to try and sort the guys issues not to stir trouble if you have no technical ability then there is no point commenting
Andy you are clearly an amateur when it comes to wpc pinball you can see it with the questions you ask in previous posts you maybe a fully qualified electronic engineer but I find pinball experience far outweighs this you have replaced many components you had absolutely no need to replace in previous posts you also brag about how much you finished this project for and how much you sold it for a hugh profit so the least you can do is sort the guys issue out even if this means buying him a used working board I have followed your posts and to say the game was fully restored is not correct and the pics we did see where poor and the main part under the playfield we did not see I do many full restorations and if you are doing it properly it does not take 3 weeks
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Chris. The reason why I changed the components I did was because virtually every electrolytic Capacitor had dried up and was showing signs of bulging / overheating and the Bridge Rectifiers especially on the main Power Board were producing nearly 15% ripple on the DC outputs. This is a known issue with especially the 5 Volt rails on all pinballs resulting in random resets or the CPU's and trashing of the Peripheral Interface Adaptors etc . And no I did not destroy the "plate-throughs" when desoldering. As I mentioned in my posts, I had had a long time away from renovating SS machines 30 yrs ago I used to specialise in repiring the awful unreliable Gottlieb System 80 games and their "Rockwell" electronics. I needed some help with SOME of the issues I discovered initially When I got the HS2 it did not even have a CPU! Chris, I am intrigued. Bearing in mind only I knew of ALL the problems with HS2 exactly what components did I needlessly replace? because I failed to mention the burnt out solenoid drivers and missing lines on the DMD (not the display). As for the timescale of 3 weeks surely that it dependent on a number factors including the actual number of hours spent and how many people were working on it A total rebuild from scratch could be done in a week with a suitable amount of resources and staff! You also comment that the game was not fully restored! How on earth could you know that? Did you see the game, play the game or inspect the game? NO! so how could you possibly know? I get back to my initial comments.... 1) The Buyer saw the game turned off. It was turned on, there were no faults on any of the diagnostics. It was fully inspected inside and out played several times to the full satisfaction of the buyer. I even let the buyer do a money transfer after leaving ( I would have hardly done that if I knew there to be issue). This is the important bit.... HE HAS HAD THE GAME FOR SEVERAL WEEKS without a problem or issue and on his own admission has been on a "learning curve" playing around with it. Now it has developed problems and now it is blowing fuses! Chris, you know as well as me that fuses do not suddenly start blowing and it is often the case that electronics has gone with it. If I had a suitable board, I would have lent it to eliminate the board but what then? A lifetime Guarantee?? What happens in another 6 or so weeks when there is another issue/ Tell me how long do you guarantee your machines?
 
AndyB53 said:
Chris, you know as well as me that fuses do not suddenly start blowing and it is often the case that electronics has gone with it.
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Uh - it's almost certainly an offset ribbon cable and he'll be down a few fuses grand total damage. Why would you suggest otherwise?
 
AndyB53 said:
What happens in another 6 or so weeks when there is another issue/ Tell me how long do you guarantee your machines?
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You’re barking up the wrong tree here Andy. When Chris sells something that is ‘sold as seen’ it is clearly marked as such and the price is rock bottom and they sell in minutes. You buy it cheap and any problems are yours to deal with. My experience is anything he sells that has been restored (for restored sized price) he continues to offer ongoing support to. I have had over a dozen pins from him and he has always rectified any problems
 
AndyB53 said:
Chris. The reason why I changed the components I did was because virtually every electrolytic Capacitor had dried up and was showing signs of bulging / overheating and the Bridge Rectifiers especially on the main Power Board were producing nearly 15% ripple on the DC outputs. This is a known issue with especially the 5 Volt rails on all pinballs resulting in random resets or the CPU's and trashing of the Peripheral Interface Adaptors etc . And no I did not destroy the "plate-throughs" when desoldering. As I mentioned in my posts, I had had a long time away from renovating SS machines 30 yrs ago I used to specialise in repiring the awful unreliable Gottlieb System 80 games and their "Rockwell" electronics. I needed some help with SOME of the issues I discovered initially When I got the HS2 it did not even have a CPU! Chris, I am intrigued. Bearing in mind only I knew of ALL the problems with HS2 exactly what components did I needlessly replace? because I failed to mention the burnt out solenoid drivers and missing lines on the DMD (not the display). As for the timescale of 3 weeks surely that it dependent on a number factors including the actual number of hours spent and how many people were working on it A total rebuild from scratch could be done in a week with a suitable amount of resources and staff! You also comment that the game was not fully restored! How on earth could you know that? Did you see the game, play the game or inspect the game? NO! so how could you possibly know? I get back to my initial comments.... 1) The Buyer saw the game turned off. It was turned on, there were no faults on any of the diagnostics. It was fully inspected inside and out played several times to the full satisfaction of the buyer. I even let the buyer do a money transfer after leaving ( I would have hardly done that if I knew there to be issue). This is the important bit.... HE HAS HAD THE GAME FOR SEVERAL WEEKS without a problem or issue and on his own admission has been on a "learning curve" playing around with it. Now it has developed problems and now it is blowing fuses! Chris, you know as well as me that fuses do not suddenly start blowing and it is often the case that electronics has gone with it. If I had a suitable board, I would have lent it to eliminate the board but what then? A lifetime Guarantee?? What happens in another 6 or so weeks when there is another issue/ Tell me how long do you guarantee your machines?
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no one can offer a lifetime guarantee I fully understand that
With my restored machines I would not expect any issues the buyer has unlimited technical support and if it can’t be fixed by e mail or phone call then if they return it too me I will fix it or if local then will go and fix It
I have restored many machines and I know if you do it to a high standard then no matter how many people you have on the job you can’t do it in 3 weeks
I can’t understand why you put 12 poor pics on e bay and here with none of the underside of the playfield and claim fully restored surly if it was fully restored you would have lots of high quality pics showing off your amazing work below are some pics of a fully restored whirlwind and it certainly took more than 3 weeks AF4B7BDB-9556-4EAA-9227-82E1EE877D61.jpegC280954B-688E-42A1-A27F-D27E23BB3221.jpegD59B48E1-117A-4A94-8372-C40DDF9C3CC6.jpegEEC9E655-46F5-4AF7-896C-20CE20A4263C.jpegC7FBA365-BE54-4FD9-8D11-9C2A1F767781.jpeg2E597F19-A9EA-4810-9426-55DAC1641690.jpeg9ED54EA8-055D-4B85-B2D7-A517720824B7.jpegFA9DC499-F18E-4C43-81E3-B104C7F7BD9F.jpeg40D43B3F-B81C-480B-A455-404AAF2F6CCE.jpegA1121985-347E-4E7C-B2F6-CFA3A9E5920D.jpeg52546A90-AE61-42E0-8BAA-0C0AB4170CDF.jpegC4AA1A23-D3AF-40F0-BF89-C9AECDA7C635.jpeg
 

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