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Complete The Shadow - Graphic Novel edition
- Thread starter s000m
- Start date
That will be awesome. Great idea!
Asiapinball
Site Supporter
Amazing work. How are you going to print the translite.
Retro refurb do a custom print service. May also consider doing the cab art. But I promised myself no more big projects after BSD for at least a few months
Ant-H
Site Supporter
What’s your overall plan with the playfield and game in general? What’s the top side like?
If you plan it stripping it you could try and sand the rear down slightly to remove the rust marks.
I would do a full restore and replace the rusty sockets etc. Or evaporust them? It depends on how far you want to go and spend
But it looks like alot of the parts have corrosion on them.
If you plan it stripping it you could try and sand the rear down slightly to remove the rust marks.
I would do a full restore and replace the rusty sockets etc. Or evaporust them? It depends on how far you want to go and spend
But it looks like alot of the parts have corrosion on them.Top side is pretty good I can't drop it as ive taken off the support rails at the moment.What’s your overall plan with the playfield and game in general? What’s the top side like?
If you plan it stripping it you could try and sand the rear down slightly to remove the rust marks.
I would do a full restore and replace the rusty sockets etc. Or evaporust them? It depends on how far you want to go and spend
It's functional but yeah heavy corrosion. Ordered some evaporust.
Money is low so will get it going then do a full restore after creech.
Ant-H
Site Supporter
Looking good. Another late one? 
Mate you know me by now. Once I start on something it's hard to stop.Looking good. Another late one?
Another one of my 'couldnt be bothered to do lockdown clear out' machines.
On fuses - it doesnt matter what they look like.
It is all about LETTERS and NUMBERS.
Numbers is the value. They will ALL be rated at 250v.
T is a SLOW ACTING fuse.
F is a FAST ACTING fuse.
Other types exist.
So if you see T 3 A 250 it means its a 3 amp slow blow.
You also get LOW and HIGH breaking capacity but that is another discussion.
When you get a machine ALWAYS go thru the manual and check the correct values are in each position as they can differ game to game. Plus operators put in what they have in the tool box rather than the correct ones. I saw 8A in a 5/8A position (in a DMD board) a couple of weeks ago.
Man looks like I need to come to you for pins where do you find them all?
Yeah I checked the fuse list and made sure they were the correct type and size.
Did it have all the rust when you had it?
Well s***....
Was removing the ramp screws to replace the rubbers and one of the ramp screws snapped....
All screws/bolts are heavily corroded.
Looks like I'm going to have to use my bit extractor and drill some wood... Sigh
Was removing the ramp screws to replace the rubbers and one of the ramp screws snapped....
All screws/bolts are heavily corroded.
Looks like I'm going to have to use my bit extractor and drill some wood... Sigh
That sir is RUST
Removed all screws and nuts
Unmounted mechs
Removed targets
Removed lamp holders
Removed roll over switches
Removed lighting PCB boards
Removed trough
Removed my will to live
Cleaned, sanded, soaked and dremel'd everything.
Damn long day.
Unmounted mechs
Removed targets
Removed lamp holders
Removed roll over switches
Removed lighting PCB boards
Removed trough
Removed my will to live
Cleaned, sanded, soaked and dremel'd everything.
Damn long day.
should not matter on a switch, but is the diode wired up correctly?
I think so? Need to find an image to compare. I've matched it's orientation to the left slingshot
