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The shadow after slam problems :0(

Of the 24 machines I currently own, 22 were PAT fails, only Champ Pub which was practically unused and Elvis had zero mains related issues.

It's quite "shocking" that previous owners were playing pins blissfully unaware that the siderails were not earthed and or there was exposed mains wiring. :rofl:


The most unsafe pin I have ever seen in my entire life was that TOM from that Tobin ebay seller down south. Never seen so many electrical safety violations in one machine
 
skweek said:
Sounds like you've got a shorted transistor there then, double check with this method : http://www.pinrepair.com/begin/index.htm#howdmm

When we were setting up for the tournament on Friday night, me and Martin tested each game and your flipper opto board was sticking as the U shaped optos were cracked. After we'd found that fault the hold started playing up causing the flipper to flap, so we swapped the machine out for Matt Adam's one as we needed to be ready for the tournament start in the morning. I wasn't involved after that but what's probably happened is that during transport, vibration has caused something to go wonky either causing a short, or a solder joint to crack.
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Oh yes I remember you mentioning that now. None of us noticed it because it worked in switch test I shall replace that to. What setting should I have my meter on for testing transistors? It didn't say on that site

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Result! Right flippers now working 100% left one the hold is still iffy so think I'm gonna replace the other 2 TIP36C and the left coil diodes. Cheers Luke for telling me which TIP to check
 
I've got a yearning to own a shadow since playing it at the slam. It kicked my ass and I want revenge;)
 
Well yeah lol technically it did work befor they swapped coils just not the flipper hold :0p. Fingers crossed changing the other 2 transistors and diodes will sort the left one out to
 
TYHO said:
Can I just point out,to ALL I aint being a picky git when snagging these things.

If something happened at a show,you can bet your ass me n Mark,and Will would be called in by HSE or the venue/insurance,and if they found an obviously damaged cable that would make matters worse.
Thats an avoidable problem.
Thats us three "in the dock" - no-one else

If an outer cable has inner cables visible,there is a very good chance the insulation resistance will be compromised,which can cause rcd trips(if on an rcd circuit),maybe too high current for a smaller damaged cables,overheating and various other things.

It is for the owners good as well as the shows.

If I can see it,so can all owners.
Easily fixable on wpc and later era wms/ballys.
More work to fix older games and other manufacturers,but no major heartache.
If anyone is incable of replacing a damaged cable there are plenty of pinheads who can help do this.
You just need some 1.5mm 3 core flex

Good simple checks to do on any pin,is to inspect the power cord,and measure resistance between the earth pin(the big one)on the plu,and the exposed metal parts.On approx mid 80's games onwards this should be very low ohms
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Some excellent points Poi, but isn't 1.5mm a bit overkill? I would usually use 0.75 mm at the most on a pin and only use 1.5mm on something like an electric fire etc? (although I am not an electrician so I might be wrong!)

Cheers,

Mark
 
Right I replaced the left flipper diodes and the other 2 tip36c. When the playfields down the left one still ain't holding. As soon as you start raising the pf it works. On further inspection if I manually plunge the flipper the right one has slightly more resistance. First I thought it was the spring so swapped it but no improvement. Any ideas guys?
 
Wait for Andy Legend to come and repair your Firepower and at the same time fix the Shadow.
 
When the playfields down the left one still ain't holding. As soon as you start raising the pf it works.
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Has something come lose and is contacting when the pf is raised....maybe the hold wire has come off the coil? Have you got a spare coil you can swap in?
 
No loose wire infact only just re soldered it and no spare :0(
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It's possible the hold wire has come loose inside the coil....in which case the coil is f*cked. Why don't you try swapping the flipper coils over to confirm whether it is the coil or not.
 
replicas said:
Don't get him started Mark.
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hence why I aint gonna bother posting re this any more,as there is always banter,**** taking etc about electics n pins,which is why I aint doing it for shows again,with exception of NLP
 
Check out all the thanks you and Mark got for all the hard work you put in getting the Slam fully working.
Over the years your input has been very much appreciated by the pinball community, if it weren't for you there would not have been any shows.
Respect.
Now back to calling you Rip van Winkle.
 
GrizZ said:
Rudi ....not being funny , but has this machine *ever* worked for any length of time ?? Just seems to have been an epic amount of posts about it over the year(s) dude ??
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Well it came with faults and then they were fixed and was alright till the slam so it's been alright nearly a year
 
The shadow is now 100% working. Before disconnecting the coils to swap over I thought why don't I just swap them still connected first to see if it is mechanical related which I suspected due to the right plunger having more resistance. Swapping made no difference so I cleaned the sleeve ect and re tightened the pawl ect. Put back together and was still less play so had a closer look at the right which was contacting the EOS a lot more (causing said resistance) quick adjustment to the left EOS and all sorted. Also replaced the split opto on the right flipper switch so she's back to full power now :0)
 
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