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In Progress The Phantom Of The Opera Mini Shop Log

Just looks like the kicker arm is too high. What does the assembly look like from the back side?
 
Well I figured out why the arm was to high it was hitting the screw head on its bracket. So I took it out but now it’s decided to keep kicking balls out.


[emoji3525]
 
I had an issue like this with my whirly. The trough switches "worked" but did not always release properly, so the game thought three balls were in the trough when there were only two

Might your trough switches be slow to release, or catching on something ?

Sorry if a daft question, but have you put too many balls in ?

For the oxidisation. Might T cut help ?
 
DRD said:
I had an issue like this with my whirly. The trough switches "worked" but did not always release properly, so the game thought three balls were in the trough when there were only two

Might your trough switches be slow to release, or catching on something ?

Sorry if a daft question, but have you put too many balls in ?

For the oxidisation. Might T cut help ?
Click to expand...

4 is the correct amount of balls. I will have a look at the switches tonight.

What oxidisation? [emoji53]
 
The ageing of the paint on the wireforms.

It is years since I played a phantom, but isn't it a three ball multi-ball ?
 
Oh I’d given up on the wire forms they are as good as I’m willing to get them lol.

Got me thinking now I will have to check the manual I’m sure it said 4.
 
The vid shows that your game is insistent on kicking balls out until just two are left in the trough.

I had a similar issue on my Centaur. Just looking at the trough and switches, I put more in than the game actually needed.
 
Yeah I think you are right as there are only 3 switches in there. Don’t know why I thought it took 4. It came with 5 soooo.... lol
 
Sorry for the stupid question but why doesn’t the ball feed into the loaded position straight after firing the previous one!? Does this game have locks? What happens when a ball is locked?
 
James said:
Sorry for the stupid question but why doesn’t the ball feed into the loaded position straight after firing the previous one!? Does this game have locks? What happens when a ball is locked?
Click to expand...

It was catching on the arm that’s why [emoji106] now the kicker is struggling to kick out so think the arm needs adjusting
 
So yeah the ball issue was me being a gorm [emoji15] it’s a 3 ball. Also fixed the trough arm so that’s working properly. Fixed w few iffy switches. The only remaining probs I have left is the right VUK had a iffy switch which I’ve adjusted. But it seems to fire for a second time when it kicks a ball out for some reason [emoji53] any ideas?

And I can’t figure out what is wrong with the right pop bumper switch stack (I’m sure it’s the one I replaced due to snapped leaves). Which I wired the same as the old one. The switch that is activated by the yoke activates but the spoon one does nothing.

Does this look right?

4ce4ad78dc6182660341e78d9e610ac3.jpg


Also I don’t know if it’s connected but when I run the switch test that shows closed switches it’s showing some kinda glitch as if there is some switch that’s having a spaz. Whatever it is it ends in a Y but none of the switch names end in a Y that I can see [emoji53]

 
Sorry, never had a DE Pinball

Could you compare to the other pop bumpers that work properly.
 
In theory it should work because I connected it as I disconnected each wire from the old one. Wires are different colours on the other ones I think so not sure if that would be much help. I’ll have another look tonight I’m crap at electrical fault finding
 
If you look at the 2 pop bumper leaf switches (in the photo) that are triggered by the fibre yokes, one looks normally open - the other looks normally closed.

This looks wrong
 
DRD said:
If you look at the 2 pop bumper leaf switches (in the photo) that are triggered by the fibre yokes, one looks normally open - the other looks normally closed.

This looks wrong
Click to expand...

both are open as are the other 2 stacks.

the wiring matches the other 2 stacks. Have continuity to the leaf the cream wires go to but the orange onne i dont get continuity wich i assume is because there are resistors so Im stumped again. I did wander if the cap is duff even tho its a new switch
 
Looks wrong to me, Lower switch away from the playfield should have capacitor and resistor together in series on either side of the switch lugs. The top switch next to the playfield will have the capacitor across the switch lugs.
 
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Yes, that is a much better picture and is wired correctly.

Put it back in the game. The switches should be open. Press on the Pop bumper skirt to check that the switch is made, if not then adjust as necessary. Then move the Pop Bumper ring down to check that the second switch is made.
 
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When you have got it going, could you take it to a show ? It is about 25 years since I last played one of these
 
Continuity test the switch. Pull the connectors on the ppb and short the relevant pins to see if it's a board fault.
 
Moonraker said:
Continuity test the switch. Pull the connectors on the ppb and short the relevant pins to see if it's a board fault.
Click to expand...

The other 2 switches that come before it in the chain work so don’t think it’s a board fault. I’ve got continuity where the cream wires connect but can’t get continuity where the orange wires connect but I believe that’s because there are resistors in line. Which is why I suspected the cap but I dunno
 
Put 1 lead on orange, the other lead on cream. You should have continuity when the switch is closed as that shorts out the resistor and capacitor.

It can be a board fault as each switch is a single point. The switches in the chain work (say they are the row) but you're missing the return (through the column). Your problem is most likely to be a connector issue of some sort.
 
Moonraker said:
Put 1 lead on orange, the other lead on cream. You should have continuity when the switch is closed as that shorts out the resistor and capacitor.

It can be a board fault as each switch is a single point. The switches in the chain work (say they are the row) but you're missing the return (through the column). Your problem is most likely to be a connector issue of some sort.
Click to expand...

Cheers peter I’ll have a look when I get home
 
If that's the right bumper (on the white/grey row wire) you'd hardly notice if the row is out as the only other switch is the "feature" on the right flipper the other positions are N/U.
 
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