Complete Terminator 2 Restoration

[Ant-H]

I started to install the new decals today and have just finished the back box. I’m so glad I spent the time filing and sanding to get it smooth as possible as you can’t see any of the previous damage under the new decals.

Before I started I lightly rubbed down the sides with 400 grit sand paper and then wiped it all down with a tack cloth to remove any dust.

I then measured and lined everything up so that the decals would go on straight as possible.

This was the first time I’ve tried using the wet method and I have to say it was so much easier than the dry method. You can easily push out any air bubbles and reposition if needed etc.

I just wish I used this method in the past my my arcade cabinets. It would have been so much easier.

 

[Ant-H]

Finished all decals on the main cabinet. Really pleased with has its gone and how it looks.

I followed @Pick Holder advice and started with the front of the cabinet and then lined up the sides.

I used the same wet method as I did with the back box. I trimmed a couple of mm ofthe decals around all the edges of cabinet.

I decided to use the metal stern leg protectors instead of the plastic ones. I cut round one on each corner whilst the decals we still relatively wet, so that I could still remove the bit I didn’t want.

 

[replicas]

Nice job apart from why have you installed the leg protectors upside down ?

 

[Ant-H]

Doh. I presumed it didn’t matter what way they went.

Do think I should swap them round so there the right way up or will they still work like this?

 

[Andydn]

Doh. I presumed it didn’t matter what way they went.

Do think I should swap them round so there the right way up or will they still work like this?

I would offer a leg up against the protectors to see if the top of the protector will be visible (I suspect it will be)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Judderman]

Nice job apart from why have you installed the leg protectors upside down ?

Cruel Daz, you could have at least broken it to him gently

 

[Paul R Owen]

Cruel Daz, you could have at least broken it to him gently

Yeah, really pi55ed on his chips there.

 

[Ant-H]

I would offer a leg up against the protectors to see if the top of the protector will be visible (I suspect it will be)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just had a quick look and I should be able to just get away with it

 

[Ant-H]

Cruel Daz, you could have at least broken it to him gently

I’m just glad he told me. Would have been a right kick in the had I not found out until I went to refit the legs.

 

[Judderman]

Just had a quick look and I should be able to just get away with it

Result - looks fantastic

 

[replicas]

Glad you should be able to get away with it, after all that hard work.
Looks like a top job.

 

[Ant-H]

Result - looks fantastic

Thanks mate

 

[Ant-H]

Glad you should be able to get away with it, after all that hard work.
Looks like a top job.

Thanks a lot, I really appreciate it.
Yeah I’m just happy I can luckily fix it.

You live and learn. I won’t be making that mistake again

 

[Ant-H]

I didn’t get to much done this week.
I started to refit some parts to the inside of the cabinet and installed new earth braid.

Before I removed the old braid, I took a load photos so I could work out where the new braiding needed to be stapled.

I also decided to fit the slightly newer leg supports, as the original ones I took out look very small when I compared them.

 

[Ant-H]

Thought I’d tackle the back box door yesterday. After taking more reference photos, I removed the wires and all the fittings, and could see that it looked like the mdf door had got wet at some point as there was swelling to some of the holes or possibly due to the heat from the bulbs?

I lightly sanded this down and filled any damage before giving it 2 coats of Matt white paint. I also cleaned off all the marks from the rear of the door.

All the wires were also individually cleaned ready to be refitted.

Before I started the restoration I was having some issues with the lights in the back box. There were quite a few that wouldn’t work despite installing new bulbs.

When I took the fittings out the contacts had heavy green oxidation covering them. I couldn’t find any replacements for sale online, so put all the fittings in a pot of white vinegar for a few of hours, and it completely removed it all.

 

[Pie Man]

Loving following the progress of your renovation, I have just started the same on Dracula,so finding it interesting watching progress on your terminator restoration. Please could you tell me how best to clean the plastic parts/clips or have you bought new?

 

[Dave Playman]

Only just seen this thread and wow, what a stellar job you are doing so far. Looks amazing! I admire people that have the passion and patience to do a full restoration like this. Looking forward to seeing the next step

 

[Ant-H]

Loving following the progress of your renovation, I have just started the same on Dracula,so finding it interesting watching progress on your terminator restoration. Please could you tell me how best to clean the plastic parts/clips or have you bought new?

Thanks a lot, I really appreciate it.
All the small plastic parts go in my little ultra sonic cleaner I got from Amazon. It does a great job removing any in-ground dirt.

And then after that if they still don’t look great I’ll buy new if the part is still available.

 

[Ant-H]

Only just seen this thread and wow, what a stellar job you are doing so far. Looks amazing! I admire people that have the passion and patience to do a full restoration like this. Looking forward to seeing the next step

Cheers Dave. I’ve been away for a couple of weeks so haven’t done much on it, but I’m nearly at the stage to start the playfield swap

I actually watched all your videos you did when you got your T2 as apart of my research, which really helped me out. Also some of those mods you did are definitely on the list for me to get

 

[Ant-H]

I got a little bit more done on T2 yesterday.
The transformer didn’t look great and had some surface rust on all sides, so I went over it with a wire brush attachment in my drill to clean it off.



This was followed by a quick mask up and 2 coats of the same satin black I used on cabinet. I also added a new Williams warranty sticker.

 

[Ant-H]

Another quick job I crossed off the list before I finally start on the playfield swap was the back board.

The sticker that was attached had seen better days, so this was removed, any damage filled and then sanded smooth.



Same as the main cabinet, I then sprayed with satin black and a new decal was applied.

 

[Ant-H]

I started on the actual playfield swap over the past week. The first job was to give the rear of the new playfield a coat of satin varnish.



The next job to tackle were installing the t-nuts and after reading so many horror stories, they went in without a problem.

 

[Ant-H]

I removed the wire ball guide rails from the old playfield and give them a good clean up on the bench polisher as obviously they weren’t looking great.
Once they had their shine back, I transferred them to the new playfield.






The next job was drill out and counter sink the holes for the pop bumper nails and to also fit new pop bumper bases, skirts and bodies. As with the t-nuts, I had read that some have damaged the top coat on their new playfields due to the hammering when installing these, but everything was fine, I just hammered them home

 

[Ant-H]

I started to remove the harness this week. After looking at it, it seems that at the factory they installed the switch harness first followed by the lights and then lastly the coil harness.

So the plan is to do it in reverse.
I removed the coil assemblies, with the wire harness, and put that aside neatly aside.
Next I’ll remove the lights with harness, and lay on top of the coils.

Then finally I’ll transfer the switch harness directly to the new playfield after I’ve given it a good clean as it’s filthy.
I’ll clean the others before moving them across as well.
I can also then dismantle all the coil assemblies for re-plating and fit any new parts like bulb holders and switches etc.

 

[stumblor]

Just been catching up on this - the wire brushing of the transformer is genius, definitely going to do that next time. It looks fantastic! Never thought of varnishing the underside of the PF either.

Looking forward to seeing this finished. Sounds like you're on the home stretch!

 

[Ant-H]

Thanks mate. I’m really enjoying whole process. I’ve learnt tons since I began, from both what went well and what I won’t do next time

I feel once I’ve done the harness I can then start adding all the good stuff to it plus I’ve got a few ideas for mods I want to try out.

I finished removing all the metal work this evening ready to go to the platers in the morning. I was surprised that there was a lot more surface rust to the parts than I was expecting.

 

[stumblor]

Ah yes I was wondering whether you were going to get everything plated. We'll worth doing, doesn't cost a huge amount and completely transforms the metalwork.

Spill the beans on your mod ideas! Something for the T800 skull?

 

[benwillcox]

Looks really good Ant, a real transformation seeing everything coming shiny and new!

Can I ask a couple of Qs on your cabinet re-decal?
I presume the wet method is using a water/washing up liquid mix which lets you reposition the decal slightly if it needs a tweak, then squeegee the liquid out? When you trim the decals is it just a case of using a steel rule a couple of mm in from the edge of the cabinet and running a stanley knife down it?
I'll be doing my WW decals soon and just want as much info as possible before I dive in and do it!

Cheers,
Ben

 

[Biff]

top job mate, well done so far - super mint !!!!

 

[Ant-H]

Ah yes I was wondering whether you were going to get everything plated. We'll worth doing, doesn't cost a huge amount and completely transforms the metalwork.

Spill the beans on your mod ideas! Something for the T800 skull?

I dropped everything off at the platers this morning and your right, platting all the internals/brackets etc wasn’t as much as I thought. All the exterior metalwork to be chromed on the other hand, that was a shocker

The T800 skull is definitely on the list. The one that comes standard is awful and usually gets smashed to bit after a few games. I’ve been on the look out for an alternative for a while. Someone on pinside modded a T800 skull by Loot Crate.
It’s made from tougher plastic and to be fair does look better than the standard. These’s also plans online for a 3D printed skull which my mate can do for me so thats also an option.
But want something slightly bigger and is a real focus point on the playfield. I think I’ve found a suitable skull made from resin but until I start cutting up I’m not 100% sure it will work.

I’m also planning to make my own topper. I’m not keen on the T2 toppers currently available on market so I think I’m going crack out my welder and modify the steel CPR topper I’ve got.

Again all these ideas work in theory in my head but might completely flop when it comes actually making them.