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T 2 Solenoid problem

excuse my ignorance but does that require desoldering the coils or can the harness be disconnected from the board in the top cabinet ?
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You disconnect the relevant connectors in the backbox. I'm at work at the moment but will check which ones when I get home....have a look at the manual on IPDB :thumbs:
 
Have a look at the T2 manual on IPDB:

http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2524

In the Documentation section download the pdf of the English Manual. On page 69 of that pdf you'll see a picture of inside the backbox showing which boards are which. You want the Power Driver board which is bottom right.

On page 112 of the pdf you'll see a schematic of the solenoid wiring and at the bottom of that page all the wires going to a number of labelled connectors:
  • J107
  • J122
  • J126
  • J106
  • J125
  • J127
  • J130
Start by disconnecting all of those and then power up the game and see if the fuse blows. If it does then you've got a board problem, if not then it's a playfield problem. The good thing is you can connect up certain sets of solenoids at a time by looking at the schematic and see re-connecting what connector causes the fuse to blow....this will narrow down what you need to be looking at :thumbs:
 
well i disconnected all those connectors and reconnected one by one and J127 causes the fuse to blow, i did hear a buzzing briefly before it went i think from the plunger coil so i disconnected the plunger coil and reconnected J127 and it doesn't blow. As i had a spare plunger coil i swapped it out but it still blows the fuse. On observing the plunger on powering up the table it is staying energised but i have to turn the table off quickly or the fuse will expire. upon checking the trough switches it now appears the middle trough switch is not working but I'm sure i checked this at the start of my checks could that switch failure cause the plunger to stay energised and therefore blow the fuse?

hope my exploits make some sense
thanks everyone for your help with this
Rob
 
Sorry, I'm not a T2 expert, but I think you really need to replace the ceramic power resistor R224 sooner rather than later. The outer ceramic casing has crumbled because it's been over-heating. This could be the cause or a symptom of your current problems, but that component is chuffed.

If I read the manual correctly, R224 is 0.12 Ohm 10W 5% resistor. This 0.1 Ohm 10W from Maplin should do.

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The driving transistor for that cool will be short circuit and will need to be replaced. Requires board removal desoldering and resoldering.
 
Thanks Neared Ive been meaning to do that for a while but I've got to say I'm more than i bit intimidated with working on boards probably due to all the input a was given about electrostatic precautions in the late 80's
 
robtherich said:
Thanks Neared Ive been meaning to do that for a while but I've got to say I'm more than i bit intimidated with working on boards probably due to all the input a was given about electrostatic precautions in the late 80's
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It's a power board. Pretty bomb proof really, no particularly sensitive components like processors or memory. Just take usual sensible precautions - don't wear 70s acrylic cardigans or wool jumpers in nylon socks whilst moonwalking across a synthetic carpet ;)
 
As Andy (@pinballmania) said you need to replace the coil transistor on the driver board. That is Q58. As well as the blown resistor R224 - which probably blew as too much current was being drawn through it.
 
Thanks everyone for all your help and advice, without this forum i wouldn't have been able to fix most of the faults I've encountered over the last 6 months ill let you all know the outcomes of this one when its all back up and running,
Rob
 
Thought i would update this thread as the problem is fixed unfortunately not by me :-( but by Martin at www.gopinball.co.uk i can recommend him. It was a fault with the power board not sure what exactly but martin swapped it out and sent it off for repair and did a few other bits and pieces. Incidentally i can't believe that i never checked that all the fuses were the correct values there was all sorts of discrepancies, quite frightening really especially when you’re a fireman! Which brings me to the point that the 4 amp slow blow fuse located in the cabinet by the on/off switch blows on start up, replacing it with a 5 amp stops it most of the time but not always while a 6.3 amp stops it always. any ideas what is causing the higher than 4 amp current inrush ?


Thanks everyone for all your help

Rob
 
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