Well that sucks, I paid about $60 for that if my memory serves me right
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In Progress Rocky & Bullwinkle Shop Log
- Thread starter Wiredworm
- Start date
Well that sucks, I paid about $60 for that if my memory serves me right
Afraid so Dan.
Of course if someone has a 24VAC supply they can hook it up to as a final test then i'd be happy to post it over. Bit of a shame but then it's not been used in a while and i'm guessing it's a fair amount of time since you grabbed it.
Worst case i'll pick up another but it's a shame that's for sure.
Of course if someone has a 24VAC supply they can hook it up to as a final test then i'd be happy to post it over. Bit of a shame but then it's not been used in a while and i'm guessing it's a fair amount of time since you grabbed it.
Worst case i'll pick up another but it's a shame that's for sure.
Never mind, worse things happen at sea. I'm well impressed with all the fixer upper stuff you've done on it, it's hardly recognisable. Great game too, I hope you've actually managed to spend some time playing the bug_ger instead of just leaning over under the hood. Got 300M yet? Got the 'double your score' option yet when you already had a nice points collection?
If I'd had unlimited space then this would never have left my home. One day after I win the lottery there will definitely be another R&B in the collection.
If I'd had unlimited space then this would never have left my home. One day after I win the lottery there will definitely be another R&B in the collection.
Slightly confused by the choice of picture there. 
But yeah, it's a great table and the stuff i've had to work on with it are only minor issues. Best thing is that nothing i've done so far has been a show stopper or stopped the tabling getting some play. It's getting used a LOT. The missus is playing it frequently, as are the kids and grand kids.
I need more practice though. My high score so far is 188M so still some way to go. Me and the wife have a challenge as to who will be first to get on the leaderboard.
To my mind its the best money i've ever spent and it's a great start on my pinball journey. Now we just need to move house and get a dedicated gaming room.
Alas we won't be moving for at least 2-3 years. Need to wait until our Foster Daughter is ready to move up to secondary school. Oh, and we had this installed today so we need some time to enjoy it first.
But yeah, it's a great table and the stuff i've had to work on with it are only minor issues. Best thing is that nothing i've done so far has been a show stopper or stopped the tabling getting some play. It's getting used a LOT. The missus is playing it frequently, as are the kids and grand kids.
I need more practice though. My high score so far is 188M so still some way to go. Me and the wife have a challenge as to who will be first to get on the leaderboard.
To my mind its the best money i've ever spent and it's a great start on my pinball journey. Now we just need to move house and get a dedicated gaming room.
Alas we won't be moving for at least 2-3 years. Need to wait until our Foster Daughter is ready to move up to secondary school. Oh, and we had this installed today so we need some time to enjoy it first.
Nice hot tub
Not much work has been done on the R&B of late. I've been playing it stacks and so far my high score is around 230M. Still a looooong way off getting on the high score table and well below the #1 position. Having great fun playing the table and me and the wife have a little comp going to see who can get on the leaderboard first.
Today I placed an order for a repro Lion plastic: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300929772825?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619
Sure I could make my own and I may still investigate that anyway, but the quality of this one looks pretty much perfect. Certainly the colour registration is better than my effort and it definately looks durable enough.
Either way i'll be looking at repro plastic making anyway because at least one or two of the ones i've got busted on my machine will need repros making. I've already read Poibugs article on the Ramones table and that's given some good clues on how to do it.
Today I placed an order for a repro Lion plastic: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300929772825?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619
Sure I could make my own and I may still investigate that anyway, but the quality of this one looks pretty much perfect. Certainly the colour registration is better than my effort and it definately looks durable enough.
Either way i'll be looking at repro plastic making anyway because at least one or two of the ones i've got busted on my machine will need repros making. I've already read Poibugs article on the Ramones table and that's given some good clues on how to do it.
Should be placing my order for the Cliffy Protectors later today. Unfortunately noone in the UK has them in stock for this table so i'm talking directly to the man himself.
With a bit of luck they'll be winging their way to me soon so I can make sure the damage around Aesops Hole doesn't get any worse. Russ Myers at Pinside has also suggested how I can take out a section of the mylar so that I can touch up the damaged artwork before putting clear over it and then fitting the protector over that. So plenty of jobs to keep me out of mischief.
With a bit of luck they'll be winging their way to me soon so I can make sure the damage around Aesops Hole doesn't get any worse. Russ Myers at Pinside has also suggested how I can take out a section of the mylar so that I can touch up the damaged artwork before putting clear over it and then fitting the protector over that. So plenty of jobs to keep me out of mischief.
If you're gonna talk to Cliffy you can ask him about the Nell mech and that spring. Tell him you saw (or were told about) his rgp post on the subject
I'll pick his brain over it at some point. But as it looks like my motor is deaded then it's going to be a while before I can get around to fixing it anyway.
Cash is tight and i'm learning that pinball isn't cheap when it comes to repairs I think the new motor+shipping from the US is going to run me around £60-£70. And of course as it's not affecting the gameplay it's a fair way down my list.
First priority for me was:
1. Grab the replacement Lion plastic - they won't be around for long.
2. Get the Cliffy Protector before the playfield gets worse.
Now these two are done I can start working through the other issues.
I'll get there in the end though, and thank for the suggestion Dan.
Cash is tight and i'm learning that pinball isn't cheap when it comes to repairs
I think the new motor+shipping from the US is going to run me around £60-£70. And of course as it's not affecting the gameplay it's a fair way down my list.First priority for me was:
1. Grab the replacement Lion plastic - they won't be around for long.
2. Get the Cliffy Protector before the playfield gets worse.
Now these two are done I can start working through the other issues.
I'll get there in the end though, and thank for the suggestion Dan.
Does it have to be that specific motor?
Possibly not.
Guess i'd need to find out what the tech spec on the motor is and if I can find a suitable replacement then the next question would be about making sure the mounting points are the same. If not then it would be a case of breaking out the drill and making some new mounting points on the plate.
Worth looking at I guess. All I know right now is it runs at 24VAC and it's a relatively low duty motor. I'll see what other info I can dig out.
Guess i'd need to find out what the tech spec on the motor is and if I can find a suitable replacement then the next question would be about making sure the mounting points are the same. If not then it would be a case of breaking out the drill and making some new mounting points on the plate.
Worth looking at I guess. All I know right now is it runs at 24VAC and it's a relatively low duty motor. I'll see what other info I can dig out.
You checked across the lugs on the motor for continuity btw?
Nope, but it needs a specific size and shape. Power source can probably be adapted by use of resistors, speed is only relevant in terms of how far it travels before being reset by the spring. It'd work just as well IMO without needing the spring at all.
Trouble is, not many other hobbies have similar motors that I know of ..... no doubt plenty do ..... but unless we know where to get them, it's down to getting the original or a remake or copying it.
At the moment I just have two bare wires on the end. So just set my meter to continuity and put one probe on each of the wires? I should get a tone if I have continuity I believe?
Or do you mean something else?
Basically, yeah.
There's not really much that can be wrong with a brand new motor, it's not seized? So I can only assume the windings come off inside maybe.
That's what I figured - but without a known working 24vac supply to test I can't be 100% sure.
The meter readings I got from the power connector check out.
I'll do a continuity check tonight and then post back with results. Hopefully we might get to the bottom of it.
The meter readings I got from the power connector check out.
I'll do a continuity check tonight and then post back with results. Hopefully we might get to the bottom of it.
I want one!!!! I'd use it all year round - Nice and toasty in the winter whilst all around is freezing
It'll be a week tomorrow since we got it and there was only 1 night when we've not used it. Absolutely brilliant investment and you're quite right - it will get a lot of use even during the winter months.
We went away to Sherwood Forest back in May and the cabin we rented there had a hot tub - we were sat out in it at 9pm at night with a few drinks whilst it snowed around us. Brilliant and probably the most relaxing break we've ever had.
Right, back to the Pinball.
Another job for me to do. I need to try to source some playfield support brackets. Like these: http://bayareaamusements.com/Mercha...ode=BAA&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BK-DESUPPORT
I didn't realise they were missing but apparently they should be at the front of the playfield underside so you can reset them on the apron. Explains why i've been struggling when putting the playfield back down as well.
We went away to Sherwood Forest back in May and the cabin we rented there had a hot tub - we were sat out in it at 9pm at night with a few drinks whilst it snowed around us. Brilliant and probably the most relaxing break we've ever had.
Right, back to the Pinball.
Another job for me to do. I need to try to source some playfield support brackets. Like these: http://bayareaamusements.com/Mercha...ode=BAA&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BK-DESUPPORT
I didn't realise they were missing but apparently they should be at the front of the playfield underside so you can reset them on the apron. Explains why i've been struggling when putting the playfield back down as well.
It might feel notchy due to the magnets inside, so it should turn but not necessarily smoothly.
No continuity at all. :-(
Removed the wires by taking the clip off and no continuity there either.
Shaft is extremely stiff and can't be moved by hand. I can't see any way to gain access to the workings of the motor so possibly it's a sealed unit. Have a feeling it's deaded.
Removed the wires by taking the clip off and no continuity there either.
Shaft is extremely stiff and can't be moved by hand. I can't see any way to gain access to the workings of the motor so possibly it's a sealed unit. Have a feeling it's deaded.
Bugger!
And like a Phoenix from the flames the motor appears to now be working. It's aliiiiive!!! It's aliiiiive!!!
Strangely the continuity test on my multimeter still doesn't get a reading across the motor connector. I'm assuming it needs the resistance to be below a specific level for the tone to sound and maybe the resistance of the wire used for the motor windings isn't low enough. Sure enough if I drop the multimeter to normal resistance measuring mode I get a reading which suggests continuity IS there.
The motor wasn't working at first but I got a small screwdriver and gently lifted the black plastic cover on the back. I couldn't quite work out how it fitted in place so I gently kept lifting it and eventually the whole thing came off in one piece. Like this.
Now before I removed the cover the shaft of the motor didn't seem to want to budge one bit. But the minute this part was taken off it moved much more freely. I hooked it up to the power source and went into the coil test and sure enough when I fired the relay for the saw motor it moved. Hurrah for that!!
I then put the cover back in place and tested again and it still worked. It looks very much like the motor had siezed up a little (not really surprising - i've no idea when Dan got it but i'm guessing it was a while ago). I've tested it numerous times since and every time it's worked. It doesn't move especially quick but I think it's only meant to go at around 3rpm so it's doing what it's expected to do.
Brilliant news. Here's a video of the saw motor in action.
Next up I need to get a proper connector fitted to the motor. Can anyone tell me what this type of connector is called and where I might be able to get one? Also if someone could advise on the pin type and tool i'd need to fit them then that would also be extremely helpful.
Once i've got the motor hooked up then I still need to do a couple more jobs. Firstly I need to get a 2" meccano pulley as the 1.5" one that i've got is a little too small hence why the belt is slack. I've located a place that sells them here: http://www.meccanospares.com/shop/article_20a-BL-N/2"-Pulley-Blue.html?sessid=IkyymQomcoVctgKMdpqIt50yTC3RtNRoAp9ceT4NhE9xqSmVjIOobzHcYxHaIPuF&shop_param=cid=30&aid=20a-BL-N&
And then the final missing component is that darned torsion spring. I've found a place on eBay which will sell me a bag of 100 assorted springs for a few pounds so I reckon i'll end up grabbing that and then having a bit of an experiment to see which gives the required tension.
Strangely the continuity test on my multimeter still doesn't get a reading across the motor connector. I'm assuming it needs the resistance to be below a specific level for the tone to sound and maybe the resistance of the wire used for the motor windings isn't low enough. Sure enough if I drop the multimeter to normal resistance measuring mode I get a reading which suggests continuity IS there.
The motor wasn't working at first but I got a small screwdriver and gently lifted the black plastic cover on the back. I couldn't quite work out how it fitted in place so I gently kept lifting it and eventually the whole thing came off in one piece. Like this.
Now before I removed the cover the shaft of the motor didn't seem to want to budge one bit. But the minute this part was taken off it moved much more freely. I hooked it up to the power source and went into the coil test and sure enough when I fired the relay for the saw motor it moved. Hurrah for that!!
I then put the cover back in place and tested again and it still worked. It looks very much like the motor had siezed up a little (not really surprising - i've no idea when Dan got it but i'm guessing it was a while ago). I've tested it numerous times since and every time it's worked. It doesn't move especially quick but I think it's only meant to go at around 3rpm so it's doing what it's expected to do.
Brilliant news. Here's a video of the saw motor in action.
Next up I need to get a proper connector fitted to the motor. Can anyone tell me what this type of connector is called and where I might be able to get one? Also if someone could advise on the pin type and tool i'd need to fit them then that would also be extremely helpful.
Once i've got the motor hooked up then I still need to do a couple more jobs. Firstly I need to get a 2" meccano pulley as the 1.5" one that i've got is a little too small hence why the belt is slack. I've located a place that sells them here: http://www.meccanospares.com/shop/article_20a-BL-N/2"-Pulley-Blue.html?sessid=IkyymQomcoVctgKMdpqIt50yTC3RtNRoAp9ceT4NhE9xqSmVjIOobzHcYxHaIPuF&shop_param=cid=30&aid=20a-BL-N&
And then the final missing component is that darned torsion spring. I've found a place on eBay which will sell me a bag of 100 assorted springs for a few pounds so I reckon i'll end up grabbing that and then having a bit of an experiment to see which gives the required tension.
That is a molex connector andy the legend sells them. And you will need a molex crimping tool the ratchet ones are best. Once you crimp the pins and sockets they just slide into the housing till u hear a click
And like a Phoenix from the flames the motor appears to now be working. It's aliiiiive!!! It's aliiiiive!!!
Strangely the continuity test on my multimeter still doesn't get a reading across the motor connector. I'm assuming it needs the resistance to be below a specific level for the tone to sound and maybe the resistance of the wire used for the motor windings isn't low enough. Sure enough if I drop the multimeter to normal resistance measuring mode I get a reading which suggests continuity IS there.
The motor wasn't working at first but I got a small screwdriver and gently lifted the black plastic cover on the back. I couldn't quite work out how it fitted in place so I gently kept lifting it and eventually the whole thing came off in one piece. Like this.
Now before I removed the cover the shaft of the motor didn't seem to want to budge one bit. But the minute this part was taken off it moved much more freely. I hooked it up to the power source and went into the coil test and sure enough when I fired the relay for the saw motor it moved. Hurrah for that!!
I then put the cover back in place and tested again and it still worked. It looks very much like the motor had siezed up a little (not really surprising - i've no idea when Dan got it but i'm guessing it was a while ago). I've tested it numerous times since and every time it's worked. It doesn't move especially quick but I think it's only meant to go at around 3rpm so it's doing what it's expected to do.
Brilliant news. Here's a video of the saw motor in action.
Next up I need to get a proper connector fitted to the motor. Can anyone tell me what this type of connector is called and where I might be able to get one? Also if someone could advise on the pin type and tool i'd need to fit them then that would also be extremely helpful.
Once i've got the motor hooked up then I still need to do a couple more jobs. Firstly I need to get a 2" meccano pulley as the 1.5" one that i've got is a little too small hence why the belt is slack. I've located a place that sells them here: http://www.meccanospares.com/shop/article_20a-BL-N/2"-Pulley-Blue.html?sessid=IkyymQomcoVctgKMdpqIt50yTC3RtNRoAp9ceT4NhE9xqSmVjIOobzHcYxHaIPuF&shop_param=cid=30&aid=20a-BL-N&
And then the final missing component is that darned torsion spring. I've found a place on eBay which will sell me a bag of 100 assorted springs for a few pounds so I reckon i'll end up grabbing that and then having a bit of an experiment to see which gives the required tension.
Meccano pulley - ouch how much!! That is expensive, shouldn't be that much. If you aren't in a rush for it i'll see if i've got one as had loads of meccano stuff
Fantastic news. I'm enjoying watching your Nell log fix come together.
How come that connector has a resistor wired into it? What ohms is it, what does it do to the voltage? Or is it to do with stepping down the current?
Anyway that motor looks exactly how I expected it to after seeing a working Nell log do its thing. When its all together, the figure-8 belt will slowly move the blade down and the log up towards it. Can't wait to see the finished article in all its glory.
How come that connector has a resistor wired into it? What ohms is it, what does it do to the voltage? Or is it to do with stepping down the current?
Anyway that motor looks exactly how I expected it to after seeing a working Nell log do its thing. When its all together, the figure-8 belt will slowly move the blade down and the log up towards it. Can't wait to see the finished article in all its glory.
