Repairing my first Pinball Machine - Time Machine (Data East)

[RetroHeed]

Hi,

Some of you will already know that I just got my first Pinball Machine, Time Machine (Data East). Unfortunately things have not gone well right from the start, see my post in the General Pinball Discussion Thread " My experience owning my First Pinball Machine (unfortunately things have not been so great so far)

A damaged Pop Bumper has ultimately led to a burnt out Coil and likely shorted Transistors.

I will update here as and when on what I find, if anyone can chip in and help and offer some guidance that would be very much appreciated.

**Updated 14:43 Sunday 19th December 2021**

PSU BOARD



First Checks - Fuse F5 is blown (fitted was a 4A, manual States 3A)



Seconds Checks - All Pop Bumpers and Slingshots are common and share the same Supply from 9-Way Connector (CN3) No visual faults seen on the Connector.







PLAYFIELD - SOLENOIDS (bumpers and slingshots)



SP4 (RED) LEFT POP BUMPER (DRIVE TRANSISTOR Q11)

Coil resistance measured: 0.5 Ohms (Coil paper is brown and low resistance confirms the Coil is shorted)



SP2 (YELLOW) CENTER POP BUMPER (DRIVE TRANSISTOR Q9)

Coil Coil resistance measured: 3.7 Ohms



SP1 (BLUE) RIGHT POP BUMPER (DRIVE TRANSISTOR Q8)

Coil Coil resistance measured: 3.7 Ohms



SP3 LEFT SLINGSHOT (DRIVE TRANSISTOR Q10)

Coil Coil resistance measured: 3.8 Ohms



SP5 RIGHT SLINGSHOT (DRIVE TRANSISTOR Q12)

Coil Coil resistance measured: 4.0 Ohms







CPU BOARD



Solenoids are driven by the CPU Board on Connector (CN19)

Visually there signs of a small burn marks around Pin 3 & 4 on the connector body, the connector, cabling and board in this area are all good, I don’t expect there to be an issue with the connector itself.



Visual inspection carried out around the x5 Driver Transistors Q8, 9, 10, 11 & 12 there are no apparent signs of any damage to or around this area, this is good news.



Transistors (Special Coil) - Q8, 9, 10, 11, & 12 are all shorted out, confirmed the Collector is shorted to Ground. (Transistor Types TIP122 fitted)


Transistors (Constant Power Transistors) - Q, 24, 25, 26, 27 & 30 are all shorted out , confirmed Collector is shorted to Ground (Transistor Types TIP122 fitted) No visible damage in or around this area and Connector (CN12)

Based on the above so far the following parts are currently required. All parts will be ordered from Pinball Heaven, I currently have an order in for some items but I want to capture everything just to sure. If anyone can verify and check that I have listed and identified the correct parts or I am missing anything etc etc I would appreciate any support, thanks.



Required Parts,



X1 Solenoid Coil 23-800 Coil (I’ll get a spare also)

Stern 23-800 solenoid coil P/N 090-5001-ND - Pinball Heaven

Stern Pinball 23-800 coil. Part number 090-5001-ND Also used on Data East and Sega pinball machines but with added 1N4007 diode (available separately on site).

www.pinball.co.uk

X10 TIP122 Transistors (I’ll order plenty additional also) ** TIP102 is a compatible Transistor **

Medium duty power transistor TIP122 - Pinball Heaven

ORDER TIP102, TIP122 discontinued, pin for pin compatible.

www.pinball.co.uk

X1 Older Style pop bumper body (I’ll order half a dozen of these, they are cheap)

Older style pop bumper body C-114-3 - Pinball Heaven

Jet bumper plastic housing for older pinball machines Bally Williams Gottlieb Stern

www.pinball.co.uk

X1 3A Fuse required for PSU Board F5 (I’ll order a pack, as well as 5A and 8A, for spares and any issues later)

32mm Slow blow (1.25") fuse. - Pinball Heaven

Slow blow 1 1/4″ fuses, most sold in packs of 5 but some sold individually (specified on drop down box).

www.pinball.co.uk

X10 2N4401 Pre-Driver Transistors (I have not tested these as but I will a good few of these just incase)



X5 Inline Diodes for the Solenoids/Coils (I haven’t tested these as yet, I’ll order plenty of these just incase , is this the correct type ?)

1n4004 (1n4007) diode - Pinball Heaven

1n4004 Diode.

www.pinball.co.uk

I need to remove the CPU Board to carry out further checks, but I am hoping the above replacements are correct ?



I also need to look at what’s required for the Pop Bumper, but I guess I should order a good few spares for it and tidy up the other bumpers also. I likely need some support with this, what parts do you recommend I buy and replace on the Pop Bumpers. Again I have not looked at them in detail yet, hopefully later today.



Ideally I want all parts to be ordered tonight/tomorrow with Pinball Heaven, I don’t want to find out later its all stop on a repair whilst awaiting parts that actually only cost pennies.



Thanks for all your help and feedback so far folks, very very much appreciated.

 

[AlanJ]

Which pop bumper is locked on ? Be careful with the manual - there is an error where the pop bumpers are incorrectly labelled on the diagram:




Also - Use a TIP102 instead of a TIP122. Ive got spares if you need a few, PM me your address.

 

[RetroHeed]

Which pop bumper is locked on ? Be careful with the manual - there is an error where the pop bumpers are incorrectly labelled on the diagram:
View attachment 155440



Also - Use a TIP102 instead of a TIP122. Ive got spares if you need a few, PM me your address.

Thanks for the heads up Alan, much appreciated. I have just put something together I will modify my main post above as I go along.

 

[RetroHeed]

Bump - Main post updated with what I have found so far.

 

[AlanJ]

please don’t update the original post. just post a new one. it’s easier for us to help you then

all those transistors are unlikely to be blown.
if you tested with all the connectors still on the board, you are likely to have mistested. only one transistor blown and grounded will then give you a false reading on all the others via the connected coils. disconnect the coil connectors and retest

 

[RetroHeed]

Hi Alan,

No problem thanks. Thanks for the info, I have just removed the board and was going to re-test them again. I'll post update soon.

 

[AlanJ]

sorry to explain. beep test on your meter will probably beep on a low resistance , eg 8 ohms. ie grounded from the blown transistor through its coil (4 ohms) then via the common positive to another coil (another 4) then to the transistor you are testing = false beep.

 

[RetroHeed]

sorry to explain. beep test on your meter will probably beep on a low resistance , eg 8 ohms. ie grounded from the blown transistor through its coil (4 ohms) then via the common positive to another coil (another 4) then to the transistor you are testing = false beep.

Great thanks for the info, silly me should have also not posted until I removed the board. Did think its either totally knackered as thats a lot of buggered transistors

I can confirm faulty Transistor Q11 is the only one shorted.

Which is the suspect Pop Bumper,
SP4 (RED) LEFT POP BUMPER (DRIVE TRANSISTOR Q11)
Coil resistance measured: 0.5 Ohms (Coil paper is brown and low resistance confirms the Coil is shorted)

 

[RetroHeed]

Started to look at the Damaged Pop Bumper prior to removing it.

 

[astyy]

I really like Time Machine, well any game with real chimes. This repair guide covers machines of this period, read it through, it certainly will help during the course of your ownership

PINBALL: Repair DataEast/Sega 1987-1995 Pinball Games

 

[RetroHeed]

I really like Time Machine, well any game with real chimes. This repair guide covers machines of this period, read it through, it certainly will help during the course of your ownership

PINBALL: Repair DataEast/Sega 1987-1995 Pinball Games

The real chimes and music is what sold me on picking up this machine, and I had only ever seen videos of it. Thanks I found that site, it has been super super helpful

 

[RetroHeed]

Stripped the dodgy Pop Bumper down earlier and found a broken Metal Yoke.



I'll get some replacement Fibre Yokes also but I cannot seem to find any Metal Yokes on Pinball Heaven website. I'll give them a call tomorrow and hopefully they will have some.

They metal ring looks ok, just needs a clean up first.

All the Pop Bumpers I'll fully replace all the parts on bit for now I just want to make sure I can get this up and running again. Kids are asking me all the time when the machine will be fixed. I'm hoping Tuesday if I can get all the parts and hopefully it all works

 

[cmrl9]

Stripped the dodgy Pop Bumper down earlier and found a broken Metal Yoke.



I'll get some replacement Fibre Yokes also but I cannot seem to find any Metal Yokes on Pinball Heaven website. I'll give them a call tomorrow and hopefully they will have some.

They metal ring looks ok, just needs a clean up first.

All the Pop Bumpers I'll fully replace all the parts on bit for now I just want to make sure I can get this up and running again. Kids are asking me all the time when the machine will be fixed. I'm hoping Tuesday if I can get all the parts and hopefully it all works View attachment 155483

Marco pinball have them in the US

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/main

If you email pinball heaven with the part numbers links they should be able to order via Marco for you, if they don't have it all ready. Will save on shipping and any import duties.

Although Marco do include all taxes and shipping at checkout, but expect minimum £50 on top of the order cost

 

[cmrl9]

Personally I would do all the pop bumpers, if your doing one you might as well so the other two.

Having just replaced all three on my LOTR the first onea tricky, the other two easy, especially if you do them straight after

 

[ronsplooter]

If Phil doesn't have them, try Andy at Pinball Mania. You don't need to be buying consumables like that from the States. Metal bumper yokes are a common break part

 

[RetroHeed]

Personally I would do all the pop bumpers, if your doing one you might as well so the other two.

Having just replaced all three on my LOTR the first onea tricky, the other two easy, especially if you do them straight after

Thanks for your info and head up. I was thinking it may well be better to change the others also, at the least the plastics, I'll change the coils later.

 

[RetroHeed]

If Phil doesn't have them, try Andy at Pinball Mania. You don't need to be buying consumables like that from the States. Metal bumper yokes are a common break part

Thanks Chris, I will try them for sure also. I was thinking that also, surely I don' have to buy the smaller common items from the US, hope not lol

 

[cmrl9]

Thanks for your info and head up. I was thinking it may well be better to change the others also, at the least the plastics, I'll change the coils later.

From the picture that coil looks really old, your better off doing the lot, saves you having to deaoldier and take apart. Coils are only about £15.

 

[cmrl9]

Thanks Chris, I will try them for sure also. I was thinking that also, surely I don' have to buy the smaller common items from the US, hope not lol

You won't, however some parts can only be bought there, as I've found out, however pinball heaven can get them, as I believe Marco are one of their suppliers and they get deliveries regularly. Marco probably one of the only places you can get some bits. If your desperate them the direct order route is quickest. I was desperate "lol"

 

[RetroHeed]

Ordered some Coils, Transistors and Pop Bumper parts from Pinball Heaven today, hopefully I can get it back up and running soon

In the meantime decided to start polishing up the metal work.

Actually I very quickly removed the surface rust on the legs before fitting them, they look better but are not perfect the insides are shot but I'll take care of that later.

 

[Paul]

Ordered some Coils, Transistors and Pop Bumper parts from Pinball Heaven today, hopefully I can get it back up and running soon

In the meantime decided to start polishing up the metal work.

Actually I very quickly removed the surface rust on the legs before fitting them, they look better but are not perfect the insides are shot but I'll take care of that later.

View attachment 155534View attachment 155535
View attachment 155536

Interesting - those came up really well - what was that you used on them?? Pink Stuff and Wire wool???

 

[RetroHeed]

Hey Paul,

Yes for the legs, 10mins quick once or twice over with pink stuff, and wire wool on the legs. These will need buffed up at some point later with Metal Polish.

The Lock Down Bar I have also just gave this a quick once over with Peek and it's came up nice, and this was not even visibly dirty previously tbh. To get them gleaming I would maybes go over them with the car polisher or even a polishing disc on a drill would do. But for now now this is all just a quick tidy up.

 

[RetroHeed]

Replacement parts arrived today from Pinball Heaven, excellent service and assistance

Purchased some Coils, Bumper Main Body Plastics and Skirts, Transistors, Pre-Drive Transistors and some Fuses.

Removed and fitted new Q11 Top Left Bumper Drive Transistor (TIP102)

New Solenoid Coil 23-800 fitted for Top Left Bumper, and new Bumper Body Plastic and Skirt installed.

New Fuse (3A) fitted to F5 on the PSU Board.

Powered up the Machine and no blown Fuses, (this is good at least). All Sling Shots and Pop Bumpers work apart from the original Top Left one that caused the issue. All other Pop Bumpers and Slingshots work fine.

The Pop Bumper Leaf Switch appears to be fine. I have not replaced the Pre-Driver for Pop Bumper, only changed the Drive Transistor Q11 ( I actually forgot to change it tbh).

If anyone can help point me in the right direction that would grateful, is it likely the Pre-Driver Transistor needs changed out ? Wiring to the new Coil is correct, voltage measured at the Coil approx 40V.

Thanks

 

[Banzaipinabll]

Worth testing the the pre driver to check or just replace if you have one. Also worth checking the coil diode is on the right way round if you changed the coil, I believe the band should be next to the power in lug

 

[RetroHeed]

Thanks for the info. Yeah I have a Pre Drivers but stupidly forgot to change it at the time with the main Driver. Its a brand you Coil and the Power wire to the Diode band, but I'll double check. I'll change the Pre Driver and check again

 

[RetroHeed]

Buzzed out the Pre Driver and it measures fine, same as the others. Double checked left switch again, I'm sure this is broken. Can anyone confirm please, thanks.

 

[Fubar]

Does the switch register in switch test?

 

[Jagspete]

That leaf switch looks wrong, check it against the other assemblies, you may just have reassembled it upside down

 

[Jay Walker]

Be careful with the bumper switch(es). The idea is 'borrowed' from Williams (though the bumper itself resembles an old Stern unit). The contacts which are operated by the bumper 'tee' won't show in the switch test, as they're not part of the switch matrix/grid. The upper/first switch controls an input to a gating chip (a 7402 chip with Williams games), which operates the pre-driver, driver and coil. The lower/second or 'scoring' switch is in the switch matrix, but only closes once the bumper has operated, to produce a score, sound effect, lamp alteration, bonus build-up or other feature.

But looking closer, that switch assembly does look wrong. As I see it, the blade you've pointed at and the slightly thicker backing blade above it should be the other way around, i.e. the backing should be lifting the blade up towards the topmost blade, rather than holding it back. Are the switches on the other bumpers similar? And the actual connection, the tag making the junction with that resistor and capacitor, may not be in contact with the blade in any case. That's if it's meant to be, of course, I don't absolutely recall the layout of the switch stack. Though thinking it through, the junction would be a 'dead' lug.

The two leads for the upper switch will be a line to the chip input and another common to all the bumpers, and the slingshots. Taking care, briefly connecting across them should operate the coil, if so the circuit board repair is okay. But that does mean only momentarily - if those contacts remain closed, the coil remains on and burns itself and the driver out, as you've unfortunately experienced. What may have happened was fragments from the plastic body preventing the footplate from centring, and keeping the switch closed.

Finally, I see the bumper yokes have the fibre one above the metal one. I suspect they're reversed too. But as Pete says, there are two other bumpers to refer to. And the assembly drawing in the manual.

 

[RetroHeed]

Thanks for the feedback and info folks. I have been busy, you know what like at this time of year. Plus the wife going nuts I am spending a lot of time on this machine


I think I have found the problem on the leaf switch,

The contact on the Spoon does make not contact with the Solenoid Switch Contact. Actually it looks to be to short, it must have broken,. The Spoon only makes contact with the back Solenoid Switch Contact (and it lifts from the one in front of it)

I will look to order a new Leaf Switch Assembly. I can't seem to find one for Data East Machine but have only did a quick search, but I think something like this is required,

SW-11A-35 Williams/Bally Pop Bumper Leaf Switch Assembly Populated

SW-11A-35 Williams/Bally Pop Bumper Leaf Switch Assembly Populated

pinparts.co.uk

Unless contacts can be bought and I can make up the assembly ? I haven't had time to further inspect them yet.

On the upside the Machine is working but without the single pop bumper, so kids can enjoy the now also.

I need to look at the Kickback Plunger also as that's broke, but should be a simple fix.