It's probably best as I also need the front door bricking up, a new window, plastering etc.
Just want it done quick!
Pinball info
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Pinroom, raising the floor advice. - flooring type too?
- Thread starter David_Vi
- Start date
Just want it done quick!
Celotex GA4070 Insulation Board 2400x1200x70mm
Celotex GA4070 Insulation 2400x1200x70mm
condell-ltd.com
Reckon you'd need about 6 boards
What size is that room? Looks freaking massive gotta be like over 10meters long???
Kingspan 50mm TP10 PIR Rigid Insulation Board - 2.4m x 1.2m x 50mm - FWDirect
Kingspan Thermapitch TP10 50mm PIR is a lightweight and easy to install rigid insulation board, ideal for use in the construction of roofs.
flooringwarehousedirect.co.uk
or wickes stock it
But you should be using Kingspan Thermofloor TF70 which is designed for what you are doing and not Kingspan Thermopitch TP10, which is designed for pitched roofs. Wickes only stocks the TP10 (and TW10) and it is expensive compared to online retailers even after taking account of delivery costs. It all looks the same (probably is, other than the label) and is all similarly priced, but IMO no point using anything other than what has been specifically designed for the job.
For TF70 About £20-£30 for each 8ft x 4ft board depending on thickness plus £59 delivery.
flooringwarehousedirect.co.uk
PIR Insulation - FWDirect
Our range of PIR insulation features well known brands like Kingspan, as well as more cost effective alternatives such as Xtratherm & Recticel. The selection of products includes various thicknesses of PIR insulation, suitable for the construction of floors, walls & roofs. If you’re not sure...
flooringwarehousedirect.co.uk
And if you are able to sacrifice a little bit of the width of the room (i.e. so you can you still get the glass off) , you might want to get some insulation on that single skin external brick wall. 50mm of Kingspan TW50 would make a lot of difference - available from same place.
Kingspan is a brand of insulation board which has become synonymous with the product, like Hoover was for vacuum cleaners. There are other brands too.
And yup, you buy what you need and cut it to size if needed - it can be cut with a kitchen knife or a saw really easily. You'd typically put tape across each join between sheets to ensure a tight fit and stop drafts getting through.
Yes, dead easy - earlier in this thread I linked to Kinspan's site (link again here) that tells you exactly how to do it and they have similar guides for walls, roofs etc, so you can make sure you / your builder does it right.
www.kingspan.com
A Guide to Constructing a Floating Floor
A floating floor is a construction where chipboard, gypsum or cement fibre board floor panels are 'floated' across the top of the rigid insulation layer. Read more to find out what insulation thickness is required and how to insulate and install a floating floor.
www.kingspan.com
I did glance at it and thought, yes that's what I want! But didn't fully understand it allYes, dead easy - earlier in this thread I linked to Kinspan's site (link again here) that tells you exactly how to do it and they have similar guides for walls, roofs etc, so you can make sure you / your builder does it right.
A Guide to Constructing a Floating Floor
A floating floor is a construction where chipboard, gypsum or cement fibre board floor panels are 'floated' across the top of the rigid insulation layer. Read more to find out what insulation thickness is required and how to insulate and install a floating floor.
So can you stack it? Or it comes in different thickness for different heights?
Just do one layer - it comes in different thicknesses.
Remove the existing carpet/ laminate so you are down to concrete. Check that concrete is reasonably flat. Hopefully it will be but if not it may thin layer of latex floor levelling applied.
Then work out difference between floor level in next room and concrete in pinroom, lets say its 70mm. Deduct off 18mm for the chipboard floating floor gives 52mm , so you need 50mm kingspan, the nearest thickness. Floors will then be level with neighbouring room.
Remove the existing carpet/ laminate so you are down to concrete. Check that concrete is reasonably flat. Hopefully it will be but if not it may thin layer of latex floor levelling applied.
Then work out difference between floor level in next room and concrete in pinroom, lets say its 70mm. Deduct off 18mm for the chipboard floating floor gives 52mm , so you need 50mm kingspan, the nearest thickness. Floors will then be level with neighbouring room.
And if you decide to insulate the walls you could use "Insulated plasterboard" for that so that it is ready for skim / fill and sand.
flooringwarehousedirect.co.uk
Insulated Plasterboard - FWDirect
Our range of Thermal Laminate Insulated Plasterboards includes popular brands such as Celotex, as well as our own unbranded equivalents. We also offer both PIR and EPS thermal laminates, allowing for a diverse range of options to match every application and budget. If you’re not sure which...
flooringwarehousedirect.co.uk
Try to find somebody that has done proper garage conversions as they will know what they are doing.
Building regs apply when a garage is attached to a building and state that the garage finished floor level has to be a minimum of 100mm below the occupied living area and if fitted with a link door it has to be fire rated and must be closed.
My thoughts are if you are making a change of use this may have to be approved by a planning and building regs update, plus new insurance assessment.
Sorry to be negative but it may be a good idea to run conversions through the local authorities.
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Agreed, all conversions should be run by local authorities / planning as necessary. But many garage conversions fall under permitted development rights so no need for planning but building regs still need to be followed.
In this case it is a bit of a grey area. In previous posts of David's the garage had been "converted" (albeit badly - sorry David) many years ago, so although it is effectively a converted garage the physical change of use already happened years ago. But the conversion wouldn't meet current building regs, so would David be reconverting or just improving on an existing conversion? If it were mine, Ideally, I would want to bring it up to current building regs. Then there will be no argument when you come to sell as to whether it is living space or an upmarket storage space (similar to boarded out loft rooms that don't meet building regs so cannot be classed as a bedroom).
When extending my garage the link door had to be a special fire door (looks like normal door though) on a closer chain, also had to use fire proof plaster board on ceiling and fire alarm fitted. Think those where the main regs that had to be met from memory.
Russ, that's right - yours is still classed as a garage (and not living space) so needs to be fireproofed so you can park a car in it with a full tank of fuel. Garage conversions that are converted to living spaces fall under different requirements of the building regs.
The previous owners or even before them converted it into a room. On the floor plan it was listed as bedroom 4! They had a lodger living in it and then used it for a home cinema.
The utility room at the end of the extension was also built as part of the extension and is linked to the room that was previously a garage by one of those fire doors.
I like to assume when it was converted it was done with permission but it isn't the best job.
The utility room at the end of the extension was also built as part of the extension and is linked to the room that was previously a garage by one of those fire doors.
I like to assume when it was converted it was done with permission but it isn't the best job.
The gas pipe looks like it will easily be covered by the kingspan next to it and then the floor board over it.
It needs to comply with D19 of the building regulations (see below), but ask a gas registered plumber as he will know what is and isn't allowed.
www.legislation.gov.uk
The Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998
These Regulations re-enact, with amendments, the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1994, as amended by the Gas Safety (Installation and Use)(Amendment) Regulations 1996 and the Gas Safety (Installation and Use)(Amendment)(No 2) Regulations 1996 (“the 1994 Regulations”). The 1994...
So the kingspan will go up to the pipe but leave a gap? Then floor ontop goes over the gap to the wall?
Obviously all the skirting will go and I assume I'll get new skirting, probably something more minimal than what's currently there .
Or the entire length of the pipe is moved down like it is under the step.
There's this strange alcove where the extension attaches to the porch where the gas meter is. The height it comes into the room and way it goes up through ceiling means it'll always be visible in that alcove. But I intend to have shelves in there for the endless trophies and Pinball bits I end up with
It needs to comply with D19 of the building regulations (see below), but ask a gas registered plumber as he will know what is and isn't allowed.
The Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998
These Regulations re-enact, with amendments, the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1994, as amended by the Gas Safety (Installation and Use)(Amendment) Regulations 1996 and the Gas Safety (Installation and Use)(Amendment)(No 2) Regulations 1996 (“the 1994 Regulations”). The 1994...
View attachment 179602
A plumber (obviously) moved that pipe down so the new door could be installed. So hopefully they know what they're doing. But it being covered by a floor is the issue that has rules with it? Hopefully we'll find out when we find some builders!
Just call up the plumber who moved the pipe down and ask him whether kingspan/overboarding would comply with building regs in relation to the gas pipe. He should be able to tell you and if allowed what the builder needs to do in order to comply with gas regulations (e.g. plumber may say you need a batten running alongside the gas pipe in order that the floor is adequately supported to give greater protection to the gas pipe etc..
Plumbers are not normally qualified to work on gas installations unless they are registered to do so i.e Corgi Registration. All gas work/changes have to be certified and the same applies with electrical changes.
Here is advice on how to approach a gas alteration.
What if I carry out the works around the gas pipe?
Building over or compromising the position of a gas pipe has the potential to pose a serious risk to life and property.- Gas pipework could leak as a consequence of building works.
- Escaping gas could enter the fabric of the building including cavities and voids which is very dangerous and could lead to ignition or explosion
- Any leak in confined spaces or voids may be undetected by smell
What if building works have already taken place?
If building works have already taken place and the location of the gas pipe or meter may have been compromised, your gas transporter will need to come out and check to ensure there are no safety issues. Please call the National Gas Emergency Service on 0800 111 999.I am a retired commercial electrician/fire alarm engineer and have been involved with insurance claims caused by fire, Centre Parks Elveden and Heinz foods Norfolk to name a couple, insurance companies are reluctant to pay out if they can prove negligence or non compliance.
Be Careful!
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And some "plumbers" are qualified to work on gas installations and are registered to do so i.e Corgi Registration.
As David had said that his "plumber" had previously moved the gas pipe down below the door I was assuming that David's "plumber" has all the appropriate gas safe qualifications and registration and hence would be able to advise do the work and certify.
And agree with you that great care is needed and that nobody should be messing around with this stuff.
As David had said that his "plumber" had previously moved the gas pipe down below the door I was assuming that David's "plumber" has all the appropriate gas safe qualifications and registration and hence would be able to advise do the work and certify.
And agree with you that great care is needed and that nobody should be messing around with this stuff.
Whether you raise the floor or not, it's not going to give you enough room to get a tombstoned pin past there or shut the door?
