Interesting - I've not seen one of these in the flesh! I'd be curious to see if it would work in a real pin. I'll pm you my contact details Keith



I had a similar issue a while ago. I put it into setting mode, reset the display to default setting and then re selected device to Bally / Williams and then ensure you save the setting, that worked for meThanks for responding
Its defo the right way round (pin 1 to pin 1), I have them in 2 other B/W games and its the same orientation. I did try turning it round earlier just in case but the result was the same.
I tried plugging the original dmd back in and it was fine, also the pin2dmd from my IJ works.
Thanks, I will give this one more go but I have tried resetting it previouslyI had a similar issue a while ago. I put it into setting mode, reset the display to default setting and then re selected device to Bally / Williams and then ensure you save the setting, that worked for me
Thanks, it's what I suspected. Any idea who would be able to have a look at it for me?Sounds like a defect on the board I’m afraid.
From memory there is some logic that takes the signal from the connector and presents it to the processor. Looks like the processor is fine - which could make it a viable repair.

Absolutely - they can get knocked when not handled carefully. If any of those failed or are pulled from the board would cause your problem. So as @Fubar says - check the resistors and capacitors around that area also (including R20 and C35 sitting just above the red rectangle).I guess it could also be one of those passives which failed? Should be easy to test those resistors and caps with a DMM.
For those following the thread - the problem turned out to be a faulty LS123 (IC1).Dude, got the board back today working perfectly, thank you, I would be completely stuck without your intervention![]()
HiFor those following the thread - the problem turned out to be a faulty LS123 (IC1).
If you ever have this problem and you’re absolutely sure the ribbon cable is good (and in the right way around) -
You can test the ribbon cable input (J2) of your board to confirm the processor is sensing any input from each of the pins.
You do this by putting the board into input test mode (hold down button 1, press reset, then let go of button 1… cycle through to TEST INPUT, and press button 2 to enter test mode).
Then - from left to right, connect the top pin with its corresponding bottom pin on the input connector (J2) - a short wire or even better a jumper connector is all you need for this. The DMD screen will confirm if the state changes (1,3,5,7,11 and 13). If it doesn’t change and you’re sure the pins are connected you have a damaged pin, track or resistor for that pin
Pin 9 goes through IC1, that pin does not get sensed by test input mode.
If all other pins test ok - it’s a very high possibility that IC1 is broken and needs to be replaced.
Glad it’s all sorted.
Hi
First time poster here.
I bought a Star Wars Data East table the best part of 20 years ago, realising a long-time ambition having played one on holiday in France circa 1994. It's been a little under-used over the last few years but my enthusiasm has been rekindled by a recent trip to the excellent pinball office and, via that, finding this website. The wife is now aware that there is a community of people that often don't just own 1 pinball table, they own many, and they buy, modify, and sell them, and there's apparently one guy called Martin that collects and delivers them everywhere! She soon lost interest...
Anyway, I'm ultimately considering moving my table on as I do fancy a change but wanted to give a pin2DMD a try first to see how that looked. I ordered it online with the appropriate software and installed it, only to be met by the pin2DMD screen. The supplier has been helpful making sure everything is connected correctly, the SD card is seated properly, and I've reset the pin2DMD and played with the various settings but all to no avail. After the reset it reverted to a "virtual pinball" setting which I'm advised means its not getting a signal from the DMD driver PCB. I've now reinstalled the original DMD and that is working fine. When the pin2DMD was installed all I could see was a single green LED on the back.
The supplier has advised that I replace the ribbon cables but I don't think that's the issue given the original DMD worked before and after. I don't have another machine to try it in. Is there anything else I should be doing or is it likely that I have received a faulty board?
Many thanks
Tim