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Lost World not starting up :(

S

streaky2007

Registered
Joined
Mar 31, 2017
Messages
46
Location
Pembrokeshire
Hi All,
I'm a total noob who picked up a Lost World table recently, but I'm having problems getting it to start. I was getting 2 flashes on startup so I re-seated all the chips on the MPU board. Now I get a solid green light and a horrible noise. I tried reseating the U8 RAM again and one the pins snapped off. It's doing the same thing whether the chip is in or not. If anyone can help diagnose what's wrong it would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Steve
View attachment trim.47523DA0-FBD2-4489-B060-C287AAA99BD0.MOV
 
Read that guide I sent in the other thread. It will be a steep learning curve. ;)
 
Can anyone recommend someone to send the board to, and how much would a repair cost? Otherwise I might go for the Alltek. Thanks
 
Can you post a close up of the board, let me have a butchers..

Make sure its in focus and what not.
 
Yeah that 5101 will be gone by now. Board needs work doing in the usual places.
 
Buy an ALLTEK - there is A LOT of work in that board right there, if you want to play the game soon, with the learning and the work load, it will be a while.
 
As I said before read that document and start from the beginning. You don't even know what voltages are coming from the power board yet. You picked the wrong game as a fixer up to be honest, as I said steep learning curve..
 
I picked a game that was sold on here that was previously owned by a pinball enthusiast who cared for it and loved it. It was working when it went into storage six years ago. Would board voltages have changed over time?
Is there someone I can send the board to and get it fixed - if so, what would that cost?
Thanks
 
Yes - battery acid corrodes the board over time. Capacitors can degrade over time and flake out. It's just how components go over time and how it is when things are left in storage. 6 years untouched is a long time.

Have you got a multimeter? We can walk you through from the start. Or I will try my darndest. :)
 
I am well aware of where you bought it from and I knew Dave myself, but unfortunately a lot can happen in 6 years.

Whenever you buy a new pinball, you should test the voltages without anything attached.
 
6 years a long time in storage and TBH looking at some of the pic's of the machines. I'd guess they were being stored somewhere where you have changes in temp. Best bet is to swap it out for a new board..
 
Even for the most experienced guys, that board is a total mess. You're going to spend a lot of time and waste a lot of money trying to repair this with no guarantees of longevity.

Throw it away and buy a new ALLTEK as others have advised.
 
Yeah it's plug and play (once you have set the dip switches), but whether or not it fixes your problem is another story. For the last time check your f--king voltages..
 
Altek installation instructions require you to check that the voltages are correct first before connecting the board so that you don't blow it up...
 
Moonraker said:
Altek installation instructions require you to check that the voltages are correct first before connecting the board so that you don't blow it up...
Click to expand...

Yeah I've told him two times already and he's not bothered..
 
He is bothered, just trying to work all this out from scratch. My dad has late-stage terminal cancer with weeks to live. I thought he'd be able to help with this but he can't leave his house any more. I thought that picking up a cheaper pinball machine would be some fun for us. I've spent £500 on the machine, now another £180 for an Alltek board, and it still isn't working. I followed all the instructions as carefully as possible. I have no idea if there's a five minute fix or £100s more to spend.

I'm getting two solid lights on the Alltek board and nothing else. If anyone has any advice or suggestions I could follow that would be helpful.
 
Which and What colour lights. Try to be more specific as they have a meaning.

One of the most common problems is bad contacts inside the connectors.

Only connect the connector at the bottom left of the cpu. This is the power supply and the only one you need to get the cpu to boot. If it doesn’t boot then it’s not getting a good 5v and or ground. The lowest of the pins in the connectors tend to decay first. You can pop them out by pushing the barb into the connector to release the pins and then slide them out. Look for corrosion or broken pin. There should be a springy contact in there.
 
streaky2007 said:
He is bothered, just trying to work all this out from scratch. My dad has late-stage terminal cancer with weeks to live. I thought he'd be able to help with this but he can't leave his house any more. I thought that picking up a cheaper pinball machine would be some fun for us. I've spent £500 on the machine, now another £180 for an Alltek board, and it still isn't working. I followed all the instructions as carefully as possible. I have no idea if there's a five minute fix or £100s more to spend.

I'm getting two solid lights on the Alltek board and nothing else. If anyone has any advice or suggestions I could follow that would be helpful.
Click to expand...

As I said earlier read this:
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm
 
I am beyond newbie as I don't have a pinball machine (yet) but I have found this thread really helpful - the step by step Bally trouble shooting link is amazing.

When you are saying that he should check the voltages it's like the guy in this video, right?
 
I have seen new altek boards not boot up in games before where the driver board 5v is unstable and needs sorting. I've also seen it where altek's dont work but original's do. They seem to be more susceptible to noisy or low 5v. Usually a rebuild of the section sorts it out. The power side should be the starting point ideally for any game resurrection. (ie rectifier and driver board) What do you get from the 5v test point on the driver board under load?
 
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