The latest step in the saga of our unfixable Fish Tales flipper onto (links to previous posts here):
www.pinballinfo.com
www.pinballinfo.com
The manual says that 12V power should be daisy-chained from connector J116 on the power driver board to the coin door controller board, then to the left flipper opto, then to the right flipper opto, with grey/yellow wiring. Jon (husband) has checked all the connections downstream of the coin drawer and they are good. The grey/yellow wire from the coin drawer towards the backbox has been messed around with - the wire goes from grey/yellow to orange (with what looks like a soldered connection wrapped in insulating tape) and then back to grey/yellow (with what was an uncovered solder joint but I have replaced with screw-top connection block). This doesn't seem to be the problem though - there is a low-resistance connection from the screws of the connector block to the flipper boards. The grey/yellow then goes into the right-hand big plastic conduit carrying all the wires from the cabinet to the backbox.
In the backbox, J116 connects to one Molex splitter (which we installed to take 12V power for a colour DMD LCD screen) and then to some kind of sealed splitter that we didn't install. Both parts of the split appear to go into the left-hand plastic conduit carrying wires from the underside of the play field to the backbox - i.e. not the wire from the coin drawer. Further investigations reveal that there are two 12V power connections on the underside of the play field, both used to control the reel (one is the motor control board, the other is the opto switch board). When I unplug J116, the reel does indeed stop working.
The other 12V yellow/grey cables on the power driver board are J117, which the manual says connects to the (the old one - not my colour one) DMD controller board - this appears to be correct because when Jon pulled it the DMD stopped working, and J118 which the manual says connects to the two reel control boards, but which does not appear to connect to anything - when he pulled it he didn't notice anything new breaking. He hasn't managed to trace the wire coming out of J118 because of the huge bundles of wires in the way.
All headers on the power driver board appear to be good.
Does anyone have any advice on what might be going on - both what might have happened when the machine was rewired (we have most of our Williams boards replaced with Rottendog boards - the power driver board is still Williams, the two reel control boards and the "old" DMD controller board are all Rottendog) - and where the fault could be?
Both flipper buttons not working on Fish Tales
All the fuses are good and the flippers flip when we energise the coils with the coil test function. The flipper buttons appear not to be working. When we run the flipper test, switches F1-F4 remain open whether or not the buttons are pressed. Both flippers stopped working at the exact same...

In Progress - Fish Tales - long-term project
We purchased a Fish Tales in July this year. We were newbies to pinball and didn’t know anything about how to purchase vintage machines. As such, we bought a ‘discount’ machine at retail from Williams Amusements, which we were told was lower in price than most retail pins because it lacked its...

The manual says that 12V power should be daisy-chained from connector J116 on the power driver board to the coin door controller board, then to the left flipper opto, then to the right flipper opto, with grey/yellow wiring. Jon (husband) has checked all the connections downstream of the coin drawer and they are good. The grey/yellow wire from the coin drawer towards the backbox has been messed around with - the wire goes from grey/yellow to orange (with what looks like a soldered connection wrapped in insulating tape) and then back to grey/yellow (with what was an uncovered solder joint but I have replaced with screw-top connection block). This doesn't seem to be the problem though - there is a low-resistance connection from the screws of the connector block to the flipper boards. The grey/yellow then goes into the right-hand big plastic conduit carrying all the wires from the cabinet to the backbox.
In the backbox, J116 connects to one Molex splitter (which we installed to take 12V power for a colour DMD LCD screen) and then to some kind of sealed splitter that we didn't install. Both parts of the split appear to go into the left-hand plastic conduit carrying wires from the underside of the play field to the backbox - i.e. not the wire from the coin drawer. Further investigations reveal that there are two 12V power connections on the underside of the play field, both used to control the reel (one is the motor control board, the other is the opto switch board). When I unplug J116, the reel does indeed stop working.
The other 12V yellow/grey cables on the power driver board are J117, which the manual says connects to the (the old one - not my colour one) DMD controller board - this appears to be correct because when Jon pulled it the DMD stopped working, and J118 which the manual says connects to the two reel control boards, but which does not appear to connect to anything - when he pulled it he didn't notice anything new breaking. He hasn't managed to trace the wire coming out of J118 because of the huge bundles of wires in the way.
All headers on the power driver board appear to be good.
Does anyone have any advice on what might be going on - both what might have happened when the machine was rewired (we have most of our Williams boards replaced with Rottendog boards - the power driver board is still Williams, the two reel control boards and the "old" DMD controller board are all Rottendog) - and where the fault could be?