What's new
By:
Pinball info

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Complete Flash Gordon Shop Log

ronsplooter

ronsplooter

Site Supporter
10 Years
Joined
Jul 21, 2011
Messages
6,598
Location
Nottingham
And so it begins :) Started tinkering with my new FG project today with the first aim being getting the game fully working before I start tearing it apart for shopping. A few games on it highlighted the following:
  • Some of the pf switches weren't working
  • The trough switch wasn't registering so the ball never drained
  • The displays have got some issues
  • There were also a couple of wires off 2 different connectors in the backbox
Reconnecting the wires in the backbox solved the initial set of switches issues as it turned out connector J2 on the MPU board was the input for the various pf switches. This sorted the trough switch, one of the lower bumpers and the left outlane. After running through the games self tests it showed all of the solenoids are working apart from the coin door lock (which I'm not too fussed about) and that some of the roll over switches weren't registering. This also seemed to be causing some weird behaviour with the single drop target that blocks the shooter lane. The good news is that after cleaning each of the switches they're now all working and the drop target is behaving itself. Played a few games and all was working well so thought I'd turn my attention to the displays.

Unfortunately after nipping into the kitchen to grab a cuppa I came back to find all of the displays blank, the GI still on but the game non responsive. I tried to reboot but now I'm not seeing any flashes on the LED on the MPU board. Done some reading up on this and it sounds like a problem with the +12v so I'm guessing that with having the game on for a while something got hot and burned out either on the power board or MPU. If anyone has any ideas on this then please let me know (it's not the fuses as I checked those).

I'm putting together the first video and will post it soon which shows what the displays are doing in the test mode.....if anyone has some pointers on where to start with fixing the displays then I'd love to know :)

Here's a load of pics of the starting point for this shop log. I also removed the plastics as they're all in great shape apart from one near the back of the pf so I've brought them home for cleaning.

IMG_2313.JPG

IMG_2315.JPG

IMG_2316.JPG

IMG_2317.JPG
 
More pics......

IMG_2320.JPG

IMG_2321.JPG

IMG_2323.JPG

IMG_2325.JPG

This is the one broken plastic, if anyone has a good spare one they'd be prepared to sell then please let me know :)

IMG_2352.jpg
 
How about some close up photos of the blue battery and surrounding area on the MPU? All fixing bets are off until we've seen what state it's in... :eek:
 
How about some close up photos of the blue battery and surrounding area on the MPU? All fixing bets are off until we've seen what state it's in
Click to expand...

MPU board is a replacement provided by Jim Askey purchased by the previous owner and already has the old battery replaced so should be all good there :D

Done a bit more research and I think I know what's wrong with the displays. Sounds like I need to replace the digit driver and level shifter transistors for the million digit segment. Apparently if they go bad then they'll draw all the current which is why that digit is on very bright the the rest don't light up. I'm also going to reflow the solder on the connector pins as well.

I'll be in front of the machine tomorrow evening and have got a few things to check to see if the 12v issue is what caused the game to die....will report back with my findings :)
 
Spent some time poking around the various boards this evening and made some progress. Using the Pinball Bible I tested the voltages on the MPU board and as suspected I'm not getting 12v at the test point or the relevant transistor. So starting at the power board in the bottom of the cab I've traced the wire that supplies the the J4 connector on the MPU and have got a far as pin 12 of J3 on the Solenoid Driver board confirming continuity and voltage in the wire (it goes through a couple of connectors and the Squawk and Talk board). I also traced back from J4 on the MPU to pin 11 of J3 on the Solenoid Driver board so I'm thinking that the problem lies somewhere on that board....if anyone who knows about these games could confirm my thinking that would be appreciated :)

I did manage to check the big cap on the Solenoid board as well as the little fuse and both seemed ok so it may be one of the transistors.....I need to do some reading up on the board and see what needs to be done to test it. If anyone has any pointers as to what the problem might be then please let me know.
 
If I understand you correctly you pull off the J4 connector on the MPU and you have the 12v on the connector socket itself. Then the issue lies between the J4 connector plug pins position on the MPU and the MPU 12v test point. I'd reflow the J4 connector pins first in case of a cracked solder joint. Otherwise continunity test from J4 through the board to the 12v test point.
 
If I understand you correctly you pull off the J4 connector on the MPU and you have the 12v on the connector socket itself. Then the issue lies between the J4 connector plug pins position on the MPU and the MPU 12v test point. I'd reflow the J4 connector pins first in case of a cracked solder joint. Otherwise continunity test from J4 through the board to the 12v test point.
Click to expand...

Almost but not quite :) I don't get 12v at the J4 connector socket....so the 12v supply isn't getting even getting to the MPU board. I've traced it from the power board as far as the solenoid driver board and also confirmed continuity in the wire from J4 on the MPU back to the solenoid board which makes me think something on that board is the culprit. Is it common for the voltage regulator transistor on the solenoid board (LM332K I think) to go bad?
 
Obviously I'm sorry to hear you're having issues. I'm not ignoring this, just dont have advice that springs to mind (also doesn't help that my home internet is busted, on mobile at the moment)

As first step I can probably spare some time this weekend if you want a visit? Maybe second set of eyes may help.
 
Obviously I'm sorry to hear you're having issues.
Click to expand...
As first step I can probably spare some time this weekend if you want a visit? Maybe second set of eyes may help.
Click to expand...

Dude, you are a legend :) Don't feel bad about this, it's an old game and it was always going to have it's little teething problems. Half the fun is figuring it out and fixing it.....that's pinball!

The good news is......problem solved :D Turn's out that it's a dodgy connector, J3 on the solenoid driver board to be precise. I'm suspecting a cold solder joint so will reflow for now and see if that makes it any better but I think replacing all of the connectors with molex is going to be the long term solution. Going to spend some time this evening with the soldering iron and sort this and also have a go at one of the displays that's not working right.
 
Here's a pic of my nemesis, the evil J3 connector.......

IMG_2369.JPG

Also started working on one of the displays tonight as well.

IMG_2366.JPG

IMG_2367.JPG

IMG_2368.JPG

As you can see, the connector pins have been worked on before (not surprising for a game this old) but I think I'm going to clean off the old solder and redo with fresh rather than just reflow what's there.
 
Great stuff. Especially loved the video and as a huge fan of the movie it's great to see this getting some TLC.

:-)
 
Just got back from the post office depot with my new pf. They raped me for 100 b*stard f*cking quid the robbing c*nts!!!! :mad: I'll take some pics and vid later when I open it up by when I've hopefully calmed down.
 
I feel your pain dude.
£100 is way over the top.

Only thing is , its going to make this project worth while , once instaled the new playfield will look the nuts. Only then will it all have been worth while and the £100 to HMRC a distance memory.

Lets see some pic's of that playfield.
 
Got the top of the playfield pretty much completely stripped down today and have started removing the drop target mechs from underneath. Lots of things to clean so that's what I'll be spending my time doing tomorrow. Good news re: the display repair, put it back in the game today and it seems to be fully working so I've brought the other 3 home for the same treatment :) Still got connection issues at J3 so it looks like the connector itself is crap and needs replacing, I'm thinking I'll do all of them as quite a few are a red/brown colour and I've read these are supposed to be sh*t quality!

Lets see some pic's of that playfield.
Click to expand...

I'm a lot happier now I've seen it, it's a thing of beauty :D

IMG_2434.JPG

IMG_2436.JPG

IMG_2438.JPG

IMG_2439.JPG
 
It'll cost you £10 plus 20% of the total order value including shipping once converted to ££s
 
pinballmania said:
It'll cost you £10 plus 20% of the total order value including shipping once converted to ££s
Click to expand...

Cheers andy I kinda thought it was 20 % they don't allways seem to sting you for the same percentage tho. I've had items come which cost roughly the same amount yet one I got charged 12 or 16 and the other 30
 
RudeDogg1 said:
Cheers andy I kinda thought it was 20 % they don't allways seem to sting you for the same percentage tho. I've had items come which cost roughly the same amount yet one I got charged 12 or 16 and the other 30
Click to expand...

Why not order some parts from a more 'friendly' supplier :P
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom