What's new
By:
Pinball info

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Flash Gordon light fault (and now whole game not working!)

Just cleaned it a bit, the trace between Pin 17 and Q12 base pin is broken and appears to be the one that has frazzled at somepoint.

Q12 reading is off in comparison with the other scr's; should I be checking higher up the food chain before replacing Q12 and jumper the break?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
officially: repair the break first. the retest Q12. they can well read different to others if not wired into a similar circuit. if it’s still not testing similar then replace. unofficially: just replace it and fix the broken trace all at the same time. faster total fix time.
 
Cheers Alan, I’ll probably go with the official method first as I’ve not got any Scr’s just a boat load of transistors. Will order a set
 
Jumpering alone didn't resolve, moved an unused (for this game) SCR over and now Q12 Pin 17 fine bulb flashing @ left 15 sec insert.
Shoot again flashes in test mode, but not attract currently and haven't spotted it working in game yet so will investigate.
Another few inserts have decided to be intermittent with all the playfield manoeuvring this week, will investigate tomorrow.
 
AlanJ said:
you have two lamp driver boards. do all the same problems occur with either board , or is one better than the other?
Click to expand...
After resolving left 15 sec insert (above) I switched the original board back in, interestingly.

Both boards: 20,000 & Extra ball inserts are out (Have seen these working previously so possibly holder issue but will check everything)

Replacement board: Mini bonus 8 is off (new bulb holder, this had worked the other day)
Old board: Mini bonus 9 off and Mini 8 bonus is locked on !?!

Bit perplexed by that outcome, I didn't touch the playfield between testing both back to back.
 
Moonraker said:
Invest in @AlanJ bally driver checker.

Sounds like connector pins to me given the different happenings between boards.
Click to expand...

😂yup, @AlanJ can you send me a price for your device, an LED display kit and a ton of bulb holders please, Oh and do you need a squawk and talk for part-ex :oops:
 
Flash must be getting some serious deja vu 🤦‍♂️ just blew F4 trying to fix bulbs ..... 😏
 
Head scratching time.... 20k saucer is locking on (checked old board, this flashes correctly so assumed the SCR needs replacing on the replacement board)
Q21 is testing fine all the way to the tip of the pin, R21 is fine too. What am I missing ?
 
3 new SCRs and 3 more bulb holders all inserts are currently working.
There’s 1 GI out but that’s a balls up I made which I’ll repair when I’ve got more patience
 
Ohh, just played the game and the flippers are each triggering 10k mini bonus advance. Will have to work out which switch it is doh


Edit

No switch issues on self test, the sound FX appears to be the same as the single drop target. Which seems to score 10k and advance 2 on bonus
 
Last edited by a moderator:
and the 15 seconds clock inserts are both on solidly, sweet baby jebus.

Edit reseated aux lamp and has resolved for now
 
Last edited by a moderator:
As of a few minutes ago, after another new SCR soldered to the lamp board and another new bulb holder everything is working 😬
Fingers crossed it's the last post in here.
 
MPU giving 6 flashes after the boot pause.
No voltage along the GI common wire? Not sure if it’s called the same as the insert common wire. Sorry
 
Seems to be predominantly left side of the GI and back that are still out, front and right are now on
 
Struggling to identify the issue, all fuses checked, the GI is all working in the back box and everything on the right hand side of the playfield, and the coin door bulbs are on too.

x6 playfield GI bulbs on the left are out, along with the two roll overs in the top left hand corner and the left hand pop bumper light. Those 3 are always on under normal conditions.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
AlanJ said:
A broken GI wire to the left side of the playfield.
Click to expand...
Thanks Alan, I was looking for anything remotely like that last night. Bits that looked iffy I resoldered or repaired. If it’s a broken wire, it only took affect after everything being fine for 30-60mins with the playfield down.
 
Crewey said:
Thanks Alan, I was looking for anything remotely like that last night. Bits that looked iffy I resoldered or repaired. If it’s a broken wire, it only took affect after everything being fine for 30-60mins with the playfield down.
Click to expand...
Should be easy enough to find - check continuity to the part of the GI on the right side that is working ok. It may well be that there are two circuits of GI - in which case, maybe you have a whole section out?

The 2 GI Circuits are Colour coded usually like this:
Circuit 1 - Red wire and a White wire
Circuit 2 - Green Wire and an Orange wire

In some games, the GI is controlled (just like the feature lights), this is so it can be dimmed, flashed etc. I cant remember if FG has that? The tell tale sign is a large metal thyristor (or 2) bolted to the metal plate in the cabinet that houses the transformer and rectifier board.
 
AlanJ said:
Should be easy enough to find - check continuity to the part of the GI on the right side that is working ok. It may well be that there are two circuits of GI - in which case, maybe you have a whole section out?

The 2 GI Circuits are Colour coded usually like this:
Circuit 1 - Red wire and a White wire
Circuit 2 - Green Wire and an Orange wire

In some games, the GI is controlled (just like the feature lights), this is so it can be dimmed, flashed etc. I cant remember if FG has that? The tell tale sign is a large metal thyristor (or 2) bolted to the metal plate in the cabinet that houses the transformer and rectifier board.
Click to expand...
Fortunately no thyristors near the rectifier board.

Taking readings from the daisy chain of GI that is working Im getting negative readings.
The daisy chain that isn’t working seems to be getting very warm.
 
Rectifier readings with unplugged output

Tp1 - 7.5
Tp2 - 150
Tp3 - 12
Tp4 - 6.6 ac
Tp5 - 43.7
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom