Complete Data east 'Hook'

[Nedreud]

hmmmm





Looks like one incorrect transistor and one back to front to me?

What the hell? As soon as you get those off I want to see part numbers so I can compare with the circuit diagram to work out what the f*** someone was thinking of when they fitted them? Why in the hell is it backwards???

Also, is that big 15W ceramic resistor supposed to be straddled by a disc cap?

 

[Nedreud]

I


tis probably the right thing to do but I quite like fixing the old boards up.
The broken board owes me nowt for a repair.
when the wallet has recovered a little I will give it further consideration though.

Very clever bits of kit and it really shows how far components have come as the board almost looks empty!

There's an interesting article/blog by the Homepin guy about pinball power supplies. His company does a kit for old Bally's that I was looking at before I rebuilt mine, but he gave quite convincing technical arguments for sticking with the basic classic bridge-rectifier based design rather than going with the more modern switched-mode supplies. I'll try and find the article...

 

[deathrow]

Heres a board on ebay.. Doesn't have that cap..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DATA-EAST...585?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33923d5309

 

[Nedreud]

Heres a board on ebay.. Doesn't have that cap..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DATA-EAST...585?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33923d5309

Interesting that it shows pretty much the same heat damage as yours too. The resistor has cracked in half so that must have overheated too. Guess that's why it's a fatter 15W.

 

[Carl Spiby]

I have a spare DE-PSU from my LW3 if you end up needing one.

It's been Re-capped and had a new transistor, just needs new connectors but should be good to go.

 

[deathrow]

Pm incoming

 

[Nedreud]

Just been looking at the schematics in the Hook manual. The two dodgy transistors (TR3/TR4, MJE340/MJE350) are responsible for supplying the +66VDC and -110VDC for the DMD. If they're being fried it would be wise to proceed cautiously when re-connecting the display.

Still can't work out what that ceramic capacitor is doing across R14, unless it's a hack for C12, but I can see that's still in place. Maybe the trace to C12 is open, hence the green/yellow wire on the underside of the PCB?

Icky, but nothing that can't be fixed.

 

[deathrow]

Thanks for looking that up for me mate.
When I strip the board I will post up some detailed pics and numbers for parts.

 

[deathrow]

What the hell? As soon as you get those off I want to see part numbers so I can compare with the circuit diagram to work out what the f*** someone was thinking of when they fitted them? Why in the hell is it backwards???

Also, is that big 15W ceramic resistor supposed to be straddled by a disc cap?

Just found this board on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Data-East-P...180?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51bb726084

Check picture 3 as they have a choice of boards. There is a cap fitted.

Solder is original and untouched on the back of the board. seems the right psu for the hook and not one thats been swapped to a revision board.

 

[deathrow]

The jumper on the back is because line is open from D5. I aim to repair this section before fitting a new socket.
The relay RY1 is a bit smoked. any ideas on the best replacement for this?

Noticed on pinwiki that the transistor is also back to front but has the heat sink reversed and upside down.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:DESmallDMDPSOverview.jpg

The mind boggles

Thanks

 

[Nedreud]

Mmm... Maybe the tranny is backwards because it's a common/cheaper equivalent than the specified part - the only rub is the pins are in the reverse order, hence fitting it backwards. Gotta know what the part number is when you pull it off! They still should have bolted it onto the heat sink properly!

 

[deathrow]

Had a little play with teh PSU at lunch today.



Crispy!



I rebuilt the tracks as Im not too keen on wires going across the boards at the back.





Replaced the socket...



I did trim the centre post after this pic.

 

[deathrow]

The transistors..

Replaced the both for good measure but the reversed one was an MJE15031 / CQ407.



Got the 24v relay off the board



Another one on its way from PM. He is also sending a C1 cap

You might just be able to see its bulging up a fair bit. The top is very slightly split..



And here she sits half repaired waiting for the next postie to arrive.

 

[pinballmania]

I was out today, so don't expect any post from me tomorrow :-(.
Will get it out tomorrow, so hopefully will arrive on Saturday.

 

[deathrow]

I was out today, so don't expect any post from me tomorrow :-(.
Will get it out tomorrow, so hopefully will arrive on Saturday.

No problem, thanks for the update

 

[Nedreud]

Just replace all the electrolytic caps. I think I see 12? They're all getting on for 23 years old! Even the big blue 4700uF 25V are only £1.66 each from Mouser. These are Nichicon 105'C high-temp and 10,000 hour extra long-life (same brand as originals, these are good caps).

That MJE15031 can be used in place of the original MJE350 (and likewise MJE15030 in place of MJE340) but as I suspected the pins are reversed (BCE vs. ECB), hence why it was mounted backwards (basic difference is maximum power dissipation, 50W vs 20W). So as long as you flip the heatsink so the back of the metal tab makes good thermal contact you're fine (just like the photo on PinWiki).

I still can't find anything on the internet about that extra ceramic disc cap across R14...

Potentially some good notes here: http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index2.htm#reset

I used the same site for their Bally guides.

 

[deathrow]

On order

 

[deathrow]

Finished the PSU today

ITS ALIVE!!



fitted new connectors to the loom and fired the old girl up.

Got -14.9v at the -12v location. +12v is +11.86. 5v is 4.9v and Ground.

My main concern now though is the dmd... Hmmm

It doesn't look like outgassing to me? I have re seated the chip on the back and the ribbon. any pointers with this?





Thanks in advance

 

[deathrow]

http://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/data-east-dmd.13333/

 

[deathrow]

Looking for a kind soul I can send my dmd to so that it can be tested in a working machine. Its still garbled.

 

[BigIan]

I have a hook that I'm setting up this weekend if that's any use to you.

I'm in Northern Ireland though so maybe not the handiest (served by Royal Mail though)

 

[deathrow]

Thanks Ian,

let me know if your dmd works on yours and if It does I would be very grateful of your help and get mine on its way to you to try.

 

[deathrow]

@Moonraker found the fault at R95 on the DMD driver board.

 

[deathrow]

Managed to get a few bits tested and even fired a few balls around and I noticed I have a very weak flipper.
Took a look at the flipper board and for the life of me I cant find anything wrong with it



I did notice the factory fitted wooden lollypop stick was a little loose next to the fuse but thats about it. Any ideas?

 

[Spandangler]

Weak flippers are normally down to bad eos switches or switch gaps. Have you checked these? Even the switch contacts at the flipper buttons. The switch contact on the flipper mechs should be broken at the last possible point of the flippers up stroke. Assuming they're as rusty and corroded as everything else, I'd look there mate

 

[Moonraker]

In addition to what Gaz has said, there will be crap fuse holder(s) which you ought to replace first before continuing....

 

[deathrow]

Thanks guys. Appreciate the info.
My post was a little tongue in cheek due to the lollypop sticks

Its just the fuse holder broken on one side thats causing the issue. Someone has jammed the wood in to push the fuse over to make contact.
Thought I would share this lovely bodge with you guys

 

[Nedreud]

Wow! Nice bodge!

I'm interested to know if only fixing the fuse holder cures the weak flipper? Please just fix that and test again. I'll be amazed if that alone 100% cures the problem! Everything I've read always seems to imply weak flippers are almost always caused by physical degradation of the flipper mechanism and that overhaul with a flipper kit is the cure. I'm a scientist so rarely take the written word verbatim Experimentation please!

 

[newdos]

nice work man watching this one with interest - good luck!!!!

 

[Moonraker]

In my defence, I was in a rush and missed seeing the factory fitted lollypop stick !

Great bodge

@Nedreud - yes in this instance replacing the fuse holder most probably will cure the weak flipper. I suspect the fractured fuse holder provides sufficient resistance to reduce the amount of current drawn by the flipper coil, hence the weak flipper.