pm me buddy.
Pinball info
Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
OP
OP
Jumbosinbad360
Photo
of the gorgeous backglass (Thanks Phil!) and one with it in the backbox....
of the gorgeous backglass (Thanks Phil!) and one with it in the backbox....
Definitely
OP
OP
Jumbosinbad360
Great news! Can you PM me your details please Dave...
You can send me your driver board and I can fit the sink and re-flow all of your connector pins if it will help you out?
I wont charge anything, just postage costs.
I wont charge anything, just postage costs.
OP
OP
Jumbosinbad360
That kind Sir would be awesome! PM me your details please! Star Trek will rise like the phoenix!!!
Looking at the playfield picture, I notice it has white inserts for the outlane Specials, and for the one on the Enterprise. Anyone know if there were many like that? Maybe whoever was making the playfields was out of red inserts in that size, and used white instead rather than wait for stock to arrive.
Last edited:
OP
OP
Jumbosinbad360
First chance to have a good look at the playfield today, above and underneath. All looks pretty good apart from left slingshot coil looks rather toasted! so that's to be added to the ever increasing shopping list. Started taken off all the plastics and rubbers and give everything a good scrub! Mylar is bubbly in a few places but not sure if i will try and remove it as it's pre-diamond plate and I don't want to lift off the paint
Looks like mylar over mylar. Prob best to leave unless it really bugs you and you fancy getting the paint brushes out. Chances of paint loss are high.
Looks like you have a toasted coil on the board, this will have likely taken out a transistor and diode.
These will need to be replaced before fitting a new coil etc.
Find out what one it is and send me the parts and I will fit them when I change the heatsink etc.
PM incoming
These will need to be replaced before fitting a new coil etc.
Find out what one it is and send me the parts and I will fit them when I change the heatsink etc.
PM incoming
That's one very toasted coil there
OP
OP
Jumbosinbad360
It was so toasted the plunger wouldn't even move!That's one very toasted coil there
Transistor is more than likely locked on,you need to go through the driver board and check them and cure faults
OP
OP
Jumbosinbad360
Ok so today I was mostly eating......ahem, I mean mostly looking for the cause of the toasted left sling shot coil. So out with the multi-meter to check all the transistors on the solenoid driver board and I found the only one that was suspect was Q10.Quick check on the schematics and yes Q10 controls the left sling shot so this transistor will have to be replaced...what about the 2 resistors above it?
Should be a diode there?
If your getting a poor reading or dead short on transistor change it!
OP
OP
Jumbosinbad360
Yep that's what I said at the end of the post!
OP
OP
Jumbosinbad360
So today was all about diagnosis and with the fantastic help of Kettering Keith and some shiny boards was able to figure out not only was my mpu board faulty the solenoid driver board must have been faulty as well because when I removed my mpu board and installed the Alltek the game still wouldn't boot. The 5v led and self test led just stayed illuminated. So I replaced the solenoid driver board with Keith's board and bingo! IT'S ALIVE.......
I still can't quite play a game yet, because the left sling shot coil had burnt up due to the faulty Q10 transistor on the driver board causing the fuse underneath the playfield to blow so no solenoids just yet! Also the sound is very faint even after turning the volume pot on the sound board...but at least it goes into attract mode now.....
The next step will be to post the mpu board off for repair to Dave Langley and replace the burnt left sling shot coil....
Many thanks to Keith for all his help today
I still can't quite play a game yet, because the left sling shot coil had burnt up due to the faulty Q10 transistor on the driver board causing the fuse underneath the playfield to blow so no solenoids just yet! Also the sound is very faint even after turning the volume pot on the sound board...but at least it goes into attract mode now.....
The next step will be to post the mpu board off for repair to Dave Langley and replace the burnt left sling shot coil....
Many thanks to Keith for all his help today
sweet!
Dave, the slingshot coils on the scrap playfield that I brought round are the same type as on your Star Trek.
Just take off one of the coils and fit it to your game along with a new fuse and you should be ready to go!
If the game only boots with my Solenoid Driver board fitted, try fitting the original MPU board again, it may now work...
Just take off one of the coils and fit it to your game along with a new fuse and you should be ready to go!
If the game only boots with my Solenoid Driver board fitted, try fitting the original MPU board again, it may now work...
OP
OP
Jumbosinbad360
New coil removed from Keith's Silverball Mania playfield (R.I.P) and installed in Star Trek and it all works yay! Only one thing of concern, sometimes when the ball enters the sinkhole or at the end of a ball it takes bloody ages for the bonus to add up onto the score....I must have waited at least 30-45 seconds just waiting for the bonus to add onto the score...maybe because I haven't set any dips yet so have to have a look at the manual.
One last thing, Keith I did try my mpu board with your driver board but alas battery corrosion is now king of that domain! Both boards sent off for repair so in the meantime, clean polish and repeat!
One last thing, Keith I did try my mpu board with your driver board but alas battery corrosion is now king of that domain! Both boards sent off for repair so in the meantime, clean polish and repeat!
OP
OP
Jumbosinbad360
Dip switch settings cleared up excessive bonus and scoring...saucer switch was fine and in no need of cleaning or adjusting
Rerubbered, Leds installed for all the GI lighting and finally cleaned up the lift channel and fit the backglass.
Now looking better than ever....
Rerubbered, Leds installed for all the GI lighting and finally cleaned up the lift channel and fit the backglass.
Now looking better than ever....
That looks great, welldone mate
OP
OP
Jumbosinbad360
Minor but very important fix today...Got the sound working 100% Before it was really quiet no matter how high I turned the volume pot so I removed the sound board and during the process of giving it a good clean noticed the LN741 Amp chip had 2 bent pins. So just a matter of straightening them, popped it back in and sound has returned nice and loud...not your average FM synthesis or DCS but better than nothing!
Great find, Your eyes cant be that bad lol
Had a similar thing with a sound chip on the Vector. Legs were missing though
Had a similar thing with a sound chip on the Vector. Legs were missing though
Finally found some time to work on the boards for this. The driver now has +5v thanks to a new LM323K and the toasted TIP102 has been replaced, still needs proper testing.
Started to look at the MPU and popped the tops of the sockets for U7 (6810) U8 (5101) and U11 (6821), all have hideous corrosion. Not much chance this was ever going to work.
Started to look at the MPU and popped the tops of the sockets for U7 (6810) U8 (5101) and U11 (6821), all have hideous corrosion. Not much chance this was ever going to work.
OP
OP
Jumbosinbad360
It's all coming along nicely.......I love the pinball community. Now time to head back to Swavesey for some more fun!
The boards are now running and awaiting full testing at the weekend.