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Complete Bally Star Trek

Jumbosinbad360

Jumbosinbad360

Registered
Joined
Nov 21, 2012
Messages
483
Location
Northants
So I was fortunate enough to buy a new project pin today. A 1979 Bally Star
Trek. Lots of work to do on it but it's all good fun...

I'm looking for a Backglass and Program eprom if anyone has either to sell or
can point me in the right direction!

Also, my plastics seem to portray the bald character Ilia on them, are these the
production plastics or the prototype ones?
I think i'll do a proper shop log on this as I've never done one before so wish me luck, i'll post pictures of it tomorrow as it's still in the wife's 7 seater!
 
2013-06-11 11.27.13.jpg2013-06-11 11.27.24.jpg2013-06-11 11.27.31.jpg2013-06-11 11.28.46.jpg2013-06-11 11.28.51.jpg2013-06-11 11.28.53.jpg2013-06-11 11.29.06.jpg Well here is the dirty machine taken just after I unloaded it from the wife's 7 seater. Playfield doesn't look to bad as 90% is covered in mylar.
 
2013-06-11 13.08.24.jpg Here is the mpu board...can someone confirm the lack of roms on here please and tell me what I need to replace...
 
Get that battery off asap lol

Took like a bit of acid has been around those bottom tracks and components.

Sorry cant say much on the roms but looks ok to me?
 
deathrow said:
Get that battery off asap lol

Took like a bit of acid has been around those bottom tracks and components.

Sorry cant say much on the roms but looks ok to me?
Click to expand...

The Roms look all correct. '745' on U1 & 2 denotes Star Trek, and the utility ('720') Rom in U6 is a '-30'. That blue socket has been added for some purpose - possibly to use the pcb in a different game (see edit), with more program chips. There's enough of the pcb label left to see that it was originally prepared for Star Trek (AS-2962-6).

Edit - the first three Bally games with 7-digit scoring (Skateball, Frontier and Xenon) are listed as having early production with their utility Rom in two seperate chips, U5 & U6.
 
Are the LED's much brighter? I have pondered doing similar but I hear so many conflicting opinions.

Do you have any before and after of the bulb's/led's working?
 
Def looks like acid leak on the board, can see quite a bit of the tell tale funk around those components :eek: . .... gonna need some neutralising and possible replacements, or an Alltek. I'm guessing the mylar was applied after the (typical) wear to the center inserts had occurred.

Does it boot at all at present ?
 
Concur will all that's been said. The game's unlikely to boot with that much battery corrosion and corrosion on the right hand side next to the connectors (probably includes the connectors). Game ROM's are present, that's how most Bally boards are.
 
The mpu board does need some TLC, at the moment the green led just stays on...which is probably due to the battery damage around the reset area(?) Just bought home a really nice backglass (Thanks Phil!) and will take some more photos tomorrow but I can't really progress until I sort out the mpu board.
 
deathrow said:
Are the LED's much brighter? I have pondered doing similar but I hear so many conflicting opinions.

Do you have any before and after of the bulb's/led's working?
Click to expand...
No before because I've thrown all the nasty incandescent bulbs away..but I will post a photo tomorrow after I fit the backglass..
 
Deathrow, one thing I can recommend is replacing all the chase lights in Vector's backbox with leds. It looks amazing with leds,
 
Jumbosinbad360 said:
Deathrow, one thing I can recommend is replacing all the chase lights in Vector's backbox with leds. It looks amazing with leds,
Click to expand...

yes I had thought about that myself as the warm up to brightness time on the Bulbs is pretty slow. Are you going to do a log for your Vector? would be great to see what you have done so far.
 
To do list for tomorrow includes cleaning and neutralising the battery damage, replacing the PIA's as I have some spare and testing all the voltages....
 
2013-06-12 10.30.51.jpg2013-06-12 10.26.19.jpg2013-06-12 10.03.31.jpg2013-06-12 09.52.29.jpg Ok so today I checked all the voltages and they seem to be ok within 10% anyway...Removed mpu board, cut out the nasty evil battery, neutralised damage with vinegar and water and rinsed with alcohol and left to dry. Replaced the PIA's with some new ones (I originally bought for Gameshow but didn't need them as I ended up buying a Rottendog mpu for it!)
Re-installed the mpu and switched on and...............

same as before...oh well guess the battery has done to much damage. Hopefully going to borrow an Alltek sometime in the next few days just to nail the problem down to the mpu board so we will have to see how it goes. In the meantime removing rust from the lift up bar now I have a Backglass for it and i'll take a photo when I install it later.......
 
Um, not wanting to teach you to suck egg's or anything... but you did remove the components that were battery acid corroded and replaced with new? :eek: That is the only way to repair corrosion! :cool:

More information here: http://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/video-fixing-a-heavily-corroded-bally-mpu.3113/ and from what I saw in the picture of yours you'll need to replace a fair number of components next to the right hand board connectors. Not to mention replacing the connectors both plug and socket.
 
There are likely to be minor breaks in the tracks and as Moonraker has said some of the components will need replacement.

In the fixes section there is a really good video showing the repair of lower tracks with solder and wire. Well worth a go. also check voltages on the mpu to see if the connections are any good through the connectors. I had this fault myself.

There are bally kits with all the repair components needed. I will do a search for you when I get home and post up a link.
 
Oh and re soldering all the posts through the boards on the connectors doesnt hurt as mine were full of cracks.
 
Nope not even contemplating replacing any components....i'm not that good with a soldering iron. Just wanted to clean up the board and neutralise the acid. Kind of knew I was going to have to replace the mpu board when I saw it. But that's going to be a while down the road as I'm broke until I sell my pachinko machine.
 
Hmm true..it's just I don't think I have the skill or patience to tackle all the track that need replacing and some of the components are so small and close together at my age my eyesight isn't what it used to be!
 
Jumbosinbad360 said:
Hmm true..it's just I don't think I have the skill or patience to tackle all the track that need replacing and some of the components are so small and close together at my age my eyesight isn't what it used to be!
Click to expand...

I have five thumbs and six toes and I have managed to learn and few tricks with these machines.

Im still very much a newbie to pins and I have SOOOOOoooooooo much to learn yet I have managed to drag an old machine to life. Have a crack mate, Its very rewarding in the end even if somewhat frustrating at times too ;)

I use a large magnifying light from maplins for the boards and a set of long nose tweezers.
 
What I wouldn't give for a boards with that LITTLE acid damage ... I'm being serious here, I've fixed much worse, but of course you never really know till all the components are off!
 
Do I spot a 2A fuse on the Driverboard HV? It should be 187mA.

That and it has the wrong heat-sink, the proper one should be about 10 times the surface area, I suspect the 5v regulator will get really hot when the game is on for an extended period of time.
 
Dave2084 said:
Do I spot a 2A fuse on the Driverboard HV? It should be 187mA.

That and it has the wrong heat-sink, the proper one should be about 10 times the surface area, I suspect the 5v regulator will get really hot when the game is on for an extended period of time.
Click to expand...


I have a spare heat sink (the larger type) for one if these mate.

Cost of postage and its yours!
 
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