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WPC89 DMD display - value?

Durzel

Durzel

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So, I replaced the DMD in my TAF with a ColorDMD as soon as I bought it. To my surprise (don't know if this is normal) but the display was flexible, with a cardboard standoff panel. I've only had experience of removing a display from a Stern (Tron LE) and that had a metal shroud and was rigid. Is that normal?

Anyone have any idea what an WPC89 panel is worth? It was bright with no lines out or cloudiness.
 
The display isn't flexible, but it does look a bit unusual. I can't find any identifying marks on it, except for P2.5-12832-V1.2. It did work 100% and was nice and bright, though..

IMG_2463.jpg
IMG_2464.jpg
 
If it works - doesn't matter...

I would've taken it to put in SS and move that DMD into TWD - just a bit skint at the moment after getting WPT - GLWS - people always want DMD's
 
That looks like an LED panel.... p2.5 usually refers to the pitch... however it does look like a single panel and not the usual two butted together....

Have seen a fair few different types of LED panel... deffo not one like this before!
 
RudeDogg1 said:
Looks like some kind of led one
Click to expand...
Could be. Was the DMD in Addams plasma then?

I should've really got a video of it before I took it out, but it was bright, crisp and clear.

And yes - it's a single panel. That's what surprised me. It has a cardboard insulator that goes on the back, but that's pretty much it.
 
Strange indeed. That single panel is perhaps about 2mm thick? There's nothing to it really, I thought something was missing when I took it out.

EDIT: Doing some more Googling, you're definitely right about it being LED, and that P2.5 referring to the pixel pitch.

A couple more photos, for what it's worth:

IMG_2465.jpg
IMG_2466.jpg
IMG_2467 2.jpg
 
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Digging this up again... I sold this panel on eBay recently but the buyer wasn't able to get it working. To be honest I didn't take photos when I removed it so couldn't confirm exactly how it was wired up.

In the end I accepted a return of it and received it back today. I've tried connecting it up again, based on what the seller of the pin told me it should be wired up as, and I get nothing. Worse still the pin doesn't boot with it connected (I don't know if that's normal with no DMD connected).

The guy I bought the pin from said that the DMD power cable is plugged into the white 4 pin connector using the brown/grey/grey/black wires with the brown where the white arrow is on the PCB.

Because this cable is keyed (?) on pin 3 it appears it can only go in two possible configurations anyway as there is 5 holes that can be used.

09144BFA-04D0-43EC-A74D-339F14332E60.jpeg

I don't want to start experimenting in case I blow something on a board inside. Connecting my ColorDMD back up and it all came back to life again.

Would the ribbon cable round the wrong way stop a machine booting?

Any help gratefully received before I have to flog it as "parts or not working"...
 
Pretty sure it's an LED panel that runs on 5V DC. If someone has tried to connect it up to the DMD driver board and not got the connections right, then it's probably knackered. The 4 pins on the display are likely to be 2 x ground and 2 x 5V.
The DMD driver board has 5VDC on pin 6 and ground on 4&5 (according to IJ manual).
 
Thanks. So what is pin 1 in this instance - the orange wire? So the grey wire(s) to the right of the two black ones (going from right to left) are 5v?
 
1- orange -125V
2 - blue +112V
3 - not connected
4 - black ground
5 - black ground
6 - grey 5V
7 - grey/yellow 12V
8 - brown 62V
Hope that helps :thumbs:
 
Cheers.

If that's the case, I have no idea how it should be wired if it is indeed a 5V panel. I can't find anything at all on Google about "P2.5-12832-v1.2" at all, so have no idea how it is supposed to be wired. The only thing I do know for certain is that it worked at the point I removed it from the machine.

I wired it last night per the instructions from the guy who I bought the pin from. He was adament that it should be brown/grey-yellow/grey/black from left to right with brown going where the triangle is in the image above, but when I did that the game wouldn't boot at all. I did not try reversing the DMD data cable, I was too scared at that point that I might blow something on a main board, so took it back out again and reconnected my ColorDMD.

The DMD power connector has a lip on it which corresponds to the lip on the connector on the LED PCB which would suggest it can (or should) only be installed in two ways - either brown/grey-yellow/black/black or grey-yellow/grey/black/black since pin 3 is blanked.

In an ideal world I'd like to be able to rule out whether or not it is now non-functional (for whatever reason) without risking any damage to my machine by testing it.
 
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I'm pretty sure that if you wired it like that it's cream crackered!
I think it's a 5V panel and its had 62V, 12V and 5V connected to it. :oops:
 
Ah well.. I followed the instructions the seller gave me to the letter.

It would be impossible to connect that power cable to the LED without giving it at least 12v on the basis that pin 8 is 62V and pin 7 is 12V and you have to use one of them.
 
Durzel said:
Ah well.. I followed the instructions the seller gave me to the letter.

It would be impossible to connect that power cable to the LED without giving it at least 12v on the basis that pin 8 is 62V and pin 7 is 12V and you have to use one of them.
Click to expand...

If the chap that bought the display from you connected it up wrongly - then he has probably killed it.
 
Well, the guy that bought it was adament that he didn't even connect it up because he couldn't figure out how it would be connected. Having now seen how it connects - using the original DMD cable - I can sympathise because the DMD cable has 8 holes (7 useable) and the board has 4. Notwithstanding that fact - I gave the board 62v last night based on @Garry Sp8 's wires (and what the pin seller told me) so if it wasn't already nuked I guess it is now.

It's been a valuable lesson in so much as not to list anything remotely technical on eBay. I found out that it does not matter if you put "sold as seen" or "returns not accepted" (which eBay allow you to do).. if the buyer claims it doesn't work, then you have to accept a return & refund within 30 days.

C'est la vie I guess. Will relist it for parts or not working.
 
Don't you have your oringal wiring and you can test it out again, what am I missing here?
 
James said:
Don't you have your oringal wiring and you can test it out again, what am I missing here?
Click to expand...
The original wiring is the standard DMD power cable, and the standard DMD ribbon cable. I never bothered to remove the DMD power cable when I installed the ColorDMD.

The 8 pin DMD power cable connects to the 4 pin connector on the PCB. How it connects is a mystery to me as I foolishly did not take any photos before removing it. On the basis that the connector and the socket are keyed (the lip on the connector and socket) then it would seem that it can only be connected in 2 ways - pins 5-8 or pins 4-7.

I connected it up as pins 5-8 last night - per explicit instructions from the guy I bought TAF from, and the machine wouldn't boot. I reconnected my ColorDMD and it came back to life.

I have not tried connecting it as pins 4-7, or reversing the DMD ribbon cable, because I was scared when it didn't boot the first time and didn't want to risk DMD or other board damage.

On the basis that pin 8 is 62v and has been connected to the display, I'm assuming at this point its nuked if it wasn't already when it came back. For what it's worth (probably not much) there was no pop, smell or anything whilst it was connected up.
 
Connect it back up the other way - nothing to lose - I would highly doubt it'll backwards pop anything, it would be fused anyway.

You can play around with ribbon cables being the wrong way with no ill effect for sure, it's not gonna cause any issues on that front.
 
Durzel said:
Would a reversed DMD ribbon cable stop the machine booting at all?
Click to expand...

I am trying to think, I am going to say.... no. I think I have still had bongs, but no screen.

If the game is working again now, then the game is fine anyway.

These things are pretty robust.
 
The game is working again with my ColorDMD reconnected up, so yeah at the moment I'm calm lol.

As you say I've got nothing to lose trying pins 4-7 instead on the basis that I've already given it 62v.

Strange that the machine didn't boot at all with the display connected though. No bongs, no playfield lights as far as I could tell.

EDIT: Amusingly (?) the pin seller has come back to me and told me I must only use black/black/grey/grey-yellow (pins 4-7) o_O:mad:
 
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