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WPC89 DMD display - value?

Just looking back at my photos - I bought a couple of these from China - an orange and a green. If you look at the photos closely, at the other side of the 4 connections, it says +5V,+5V,GND,GND. (The black tape on yours is possibly covering that up?)I put the green one in CSI. Seem to remember just using the same connector that went to the existing LED display.
I then tried a Stern LED display in Roadshow using a homemade cable and it worked fine (Which is possibly how yours should have been?) I was advised not to do it that way long term as it could dip the 5V supply and possibly cause reset issues.
I can test it for you if you want - using a separate 5V supply.

IMG_4392.JPGIMG_4394.JPGIMG_4449.JPGIMG_4450.JPGIMG_4454.JPG
 
Holy **** nice translite lol :) I have no idea how that relates to CSI but I'm not complaining.

Yes, those boards look pretty much identical to what I have. As you say black tape is covering all of the components on both sides so I would never have seen the markings.

I'll give it another try tonight now that I actually know for sure how it needs to be wired, but unless it can somehow take 62v then I've probably knackered it already anyway (assuming the guy who bought it from me didn't do likewise)

Curiously using the original DMD power cable - which I'm sure is what it was connected to before when it was working - it must have been getting 12v even if it is rated for 5v because its impossible to connect the standard 8 pin cable without using the grey/yellow 12v line.
 
Holy **** nice translite lol :) I have no idea how that relates to CSI but I'm not complaining.

Yes, those boards look pretty much identical to what I have. As you say black tape is covering all of the components on both sides so I would never have seen the markings.

I'll give it another try tonight now that I actually know for sure how it needs to be wired, but unless it can somehow take 62v then I've probably knackered it already anyway (assuming the guy who bought it from me didn't do likewise)

Curiously using the original DMD power cable - which I'm sure is what it was connected to before when it was working - it must have been getting 12v even if it is rated for 5v because its impossible to connect the standard 8 pin cable without using the grey/yellow 12v line.

The important lesson for all here is ....if in any doubt about connections ....hold fire ! Have a cup of tea, ask advice , do some research :thumbs:

We have all done it. I have been guilty of it in the past and paid the price ....fried cables all the way back to the transformer anyone ?? :eek::(:D
 
Indeed. I naively took the guy's word about the connectivity as gospel, because he is the one that restored it. He was adamant that brown was used, and even told me that if I used the wrong wires I would "burn the display up". Only today has he come back to me after I told him it wasn't working to say that I needed to use the other set of 4 wires.

Hypothetically if the display is 100% fried, would it be the case that pretty much anything or indeed everything on the board would be toast making it economically unviable to repair?
 
You may have also damaged the DMD driver board? As you are not using any of the power supplies from that board for you colordmd you wont notice it.
Might be worth checking the board pins with a meter to see if the correct voltages are there. Might save some issues in the future if you try connecting a standard dmd?
 
I guess. As said above the DMD board is fused so would've thought that would go before anything, but will investigate as a matter of prudence.
 
DMD voltages all good.

Not only that, but the panel took 62v (and 12v) like a champ...

2E268615-7010-4AD0-ABE2-C0F54788808F.jpeg

Woop! :cool:
 
Well I didn't really do anything except plug it in properly. Assumed it would be dead even though the voltages on the DMD power cable were in spec. Twas a nice surprise.

I couldn't tell you how it took 62v and lived.
 
Well I didn't really do anything except plug it in properly. Assumed it would be dead even though the voltages on the DMD power cable were in spec. Twas a nice surprise.

I couldn't tell you how it took 62v and lived.

Remarkable! How did you manage to connect it?
 
Remarkable! How did you manage to connect it?

698166CF-F572-4896-843D-4C5059354E24.jpeg
(pins 4-7)


Problem now is I'm scared to try and sell it again on eBay because this episode has demonstrated that I can't sell it "sold as seen", "technical knowledge required", "no returns". A buyer can just get their money back regardless.
 
What did it sell for? If it is reasonable I may take it to put into Scared Stiff and move my colour DMD to my TWD
 
Be aware that the previous owner may have removed the high voltage fuses from the display board (the board where the ribbon cable comes from). If the fuses are removed the high voltages won't appear on the power cable, hence making it safe to connect to your screen.

But as @Garry Sp8 pointed out, the 5V on a WPC is pushed to the max without an LED display connected to it - better off using a separate supply.
 
Fuses are still in place, and voltages read as expected (62v, 5v, 12v and the negative ones). Guess I was just lucky.
 
Quick one regarding high voltages... both my TZ and TAF have ColorDMDs, the TZ came with it and I fitted the TAF one. Both of them have the original J604 cable still installed (unattached) and both fuses installed. Should I remove the fuses from the HV boards if using ColorDMD? Is there any harm from leaving them in?

I fitted a ColorDMD to Tron too for what it's worth, but I don't know anything about Stern SAM boards really.
 
What else is driven by the 5v?

Sorry @Durzel - wasn't being rude, I hope to see the cost of standard DMD's hit about £55 - £60 before making the leap, which with SO SO SO many colourDMD's coming about, I expect them to at some point, plus I will need a Stern DMD conversion kit as my colourDMD was for a BW game, so that'll probably be another £30 or something sill :/
 
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