Just a quick note to say. Do not be tempted in taking out the PC from RFM and plugging it in on your desk. It is set to run at 110v and if you plug it into the UK mains it wont be good. Also it wont run with a normal PC monitor without another PCB and some modifications so best to do all the 'command prompt' stuff with the PC safely in the game.
Could be telling you to suck eggs but thought I would make 100% sure you know.
Think i’ve figured out why the game wasn’t starting. the big parallel cable tgat runs from the pc to the driver board in the bottom of the cab is loose on the connector into the pc. typical problem. one of the screw nuts is missing so you can only screw in one side.
i just had another go on it and same issue on power up. but fuddling with that connector gets the game ready to start
then 1/2 way through a game it developed a problem with the vuk constantly going off every few seconds. again pushing the connector in firmly solved the issue.
so tomorrow i’ll repair that.
I must say. having only ever played rfm a couple of times before, I am really enjoying it. what a fantastic concept. pity i’ve no sound yet !
better read the rules next. have no clue what to do yet. [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]
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Yea that was me lolthanks. yes someone else mentioned the 110v thing. but it’s nice to be reminded. must be so easy to take it out and plug it in to std 240v
didn’t realise the monitor was non std, but i don’t have any others anymore so yes i’ll do it all insitu.
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thanks. yes someone else mentioned the 110v thing. but it’s nice to be reminded. must be so easy to take it out and plug it in to std 240v
didn’t realise the monitor was non std, but i don’t have any others anymore so yes i’ll do it all insitu.
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mine has a decent wells gardner..about the only thing that was decent. I found a lot of info by reading the old pinside.com forums, they date but years but still good info if you have time to sit and read through it.thanks. yes someone else mentioned the 110v thing. but it’s nice to be reminded. must be so easy to take it out and plug it in to std 240v
didn’t realise the monitor was non std, but i don’t have any others anymore so yes i’ll do it all insitu.
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bit convoluted. but it worked :
usb keyboard via usb to ps2 adaptor via
ps2 to at din5 adaptor
when i powered on rfm with this plugged in it came straight to a command prompt
entered the command fupdate enable
after about 10 secs it fired up the game with the old rim code, so i powered off and on and it came back up with the updated code.
game version is 1.5
of course still no sound.
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Jim, it's a known problem that is mentioned in the user manual - if you turn off the software updates for early ROM versions, you can't turn it on back on.
View attachment 104749
If the prism dsp isn’t repairable, what’s the options available to replace the whole lot with a software solution, pin box / nucore? i’ve done a bit of research but not sure what hardware you need? also can you keep the crt or does that have to go as well?
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Thanks, yes let's try keep it original, and if not then I'll go for your drop-in solution (found the original pinballinfo post for that).If you switch to pinbox you usually ditch the crt and install an lcd, though you can get special video cards that will run cga resolution, but they are difficult to setup. Regarding pinbox you have 2 options, get one of my drop in solutions pre-setup on a custom made mount plate that fits the original computer hang brackets, or try and create your own. ironically some of the problems faced when setting up your own pinbox system are a lack of sound due to the old sound drivers in the installer. If you like messing with linux though maybe thats an option?
I would try and keep the original computer box going if the monitor is good, but of course it depends on whether the prism card needs replacing really.
Some other benefits for the pinbox system are no slow down or graphics bog when the system is under load. Watch mode graphics when the ball goes in the pops for example.
Isn't there some mod that makes the original CRT brighter or something? I seem to recall. Been a while though.
https://www.ultimarc.com/arcade-vga-and-video/arcadevga-accessories/arcade-monitor-video-amplifier/i’ve seen a video amplifier that does this
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Seems like the dcs processor itself has failed or a bad connection/trace somewhere. The bad news is that chip is soldered onto the prism card. The dcs hardware is the same as wpc-95, ie its the same design as the av board.
The DSP part of the message is referring to U50 the main DCS cpu.
I agree it looks like that chip is the culprit, there isn't much else is there in the DCS circuit that could have failed, A few SMD resistors and capacitors and a crystal. Have you ever found crystals to fail? It would be really good if it was - as that's only 2 wires!
I have found a place that can provide a genuine replacement chip, but as you say, if it's soldered to the board, it's a right job to get that off and back on. 17 pins per side on 4 sides! Fancy a go Jim?
I'll get it over to you.There are some other parts in the dcs circuit that i will check first if you send it over to me. all SMD parts though so not fun either. If it does come to it then yes i can have a go at a dsp swap, though it wont be fun!! A reflow maybe an option first to.